Hanaldo

This ^ Wouldn't go anywhere else with anything suspension or handling related.

Lol, 6 different numbers if I include that engine

Means you shouldn't read too much into it, the number is just a number. My car has been on 4 different dynos and gotten hugely different numbers every time. It's a tool for tuning, for comparative purposes they are inaccurate at best.

Can't see how it would do anything, the hot air will just go around it... Would help a bit if you had a CAI I guess, but not as much as a fully enclosed box. I recommend just making your own air box, it's easy as and works out fairly cheap. Looks and performs way better too.

Selley's Kneed-It... Don't be a pussy

Still available. Negotiable on both items, send me an offer. Want them gone.

I think you have been doing your research in the wrong places mate. Pretty much what Ash said, costs vary depending on what you get and if you get it second-hand. $500 is not the budget you should be looking for. I would not drive it around as you have it now, I would be returning it to stock until you have done the correct supporting mods.

Or you could try posting in the wanted to buy section.

4:50, his tail lights are so working James, are you sure you checked all the fuses? I'm sure this thing has to be a fuse.

This ^ Moral of the story... Go live in America, or somewhere with really high altitude where 91-octane performs the same as 98-octane. We are getting screwed over in these flat lands

Turbo sold. Another price drop on injectors, $70. Will do AFM and injectors together for $100.

What are you interested in mate? Injectors and AFM I'll ship international at your expense. Turbo has been sold pending payment.

Personally I think go with whatever fuel your car was tuned with. If it had BP98 in the tank then go with that, if it had Vortex then go with that. Car will run best using what it is tuned for. BP98 is the only TRUE 98 octane fuel in Perth, the others use octane boosters to get a 98 octane rating.

You only have one post mate, unless the rules have changed then you can't PM yet. What you want to know?

Hey all, sorry for no replies, have been in Europe for the last 6 weeks. All items are still for sale. Price drop on the injectors to $80, turbo is still $400 and AFM dropped to $50. Best to contact me on my mobile as I may not be on here much, 0431047984.

You´re ignoring dyno time and labour required to turbocharge a DE. If you could do all the work yourself then it would work out cheaper, but then I´m sure you would have the know-how to swap in a DET motor and hence you wouldn´t really make it any cheaper. You gotta keep in mind things like tapping the block for the turbo oil feeds. Not too mention you want the RB25DET gearbox to go with because the factory 20DET box is less reliable than the high CR engine, and all the custom work to make the driveshaft fit. Then you couldn´t simply NIStune your car because it isn´t compatible with the DE ecu (as I understand it anyway, correct me if I´m wrong), you would have to get either a full stand alone ecu or a DET ecu and a lot of work to NIStune the engine with that because even with the turbo there would be things the ecu expects that just aren´t there. It´s not as simple as pulling the stuff off the DET motor and putting it on the DE motor. There is someone on this forum making ~285rwkw at around 20psi on a GT3076R if memory serves.

Has been done. Plenty of people running reliably turbocharged DE engines. Fact remains... If you can´t afford to put an RB25DET Neo in then you can´t afford to turbocharge your motor. Have been through this myself. Planned for a long time to turbocharge my DE Neo, but when I worked out that it would actually cost me more to convert that engine to forced induction than to put a much lower km 25DET Neo motor in I soon changed my mind. Don´t fool yourself it is no easy task to turbocharge your car. It requires much custom work, many dyno hours and a lot of frustration. All equating to requiring much money. And after all that, what do you have to show for it? A high km engine rather like a handgrenade, very much limited in how much power it can make; incredibly responsive is really the only benefit... Anyway, if you are really keen to go through with this, I found a lot of useful info in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/ You might find an answer to your question in there. 666DAN and N-DAWG were both very helpful to me; given that both of them have turbocharged their NA R34´s, they could probably provide you with the answer.

Wow this picture gets around. It´s a photoshop, an obvious one at that (perhaps deselect purple before you colour the rear windscreen?). Dude that did it is even on here, I´ll try to find thread. *EDIT* Here we go: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/336326-wtf-oo-why-would-youaka-skyline-donk/page__st__20 I draw your attention to post #37 I take it you didn´t see that slammed Patrol at Powercruise, with the 25/30? Fkn awesome.

What engine is that?? Off topic but can´t help myself, love the LM Eric. Rohan´s old car? Good to see it went to a good home

Yeh that would be because shaking steering wheel is balance not alignment ^

This ^ I simply asked my tuner what he recommended I do. He said stock FPR is fine if you have the correct size injectors, he uses the stock FPR on most of the cars he tunes.

It's really easy dude, probably the hardest part is getting the bulbs polarity right lol. Frustrating having to take the dash in and out when you get the bulbs the wrong way round. Just take your time and be gentle with everything and you will be fine.

Took my tuner 2 days to install turbo, injectors, make custom intake/cooler piping and tune the car. When I got the NIStune chip installed he only had it for half the day. All of my stuff was direct bolt on replacement though, except the turbo needed the custom intake/cooler piping to fit.

I find my car is shocking with fuel on long trips, final drive ratio means it's sitting at 3200rpm just cruising. If I do short trips I get about 500kms to a tank with a little bit of spirited acceleration every now and then. If I drive to uni (108km round trip mostly on the freeway) then I only get about 300kms to a tank with no spirited acceleration just consistent cruising speeds. O2 sensor has been changed 3 times to no effect, currently unplugged due to an unrelated issue.