Hanaldo

Yes, I think you're right. Especially given the Link software is using the GM Siemens sensor for calibration, perhaps the new Continental sensors have changed slightly and Link haven't accounted for this yet. But to be honest, I do think the ECU's reading seems more reasonable. The ambient temperature today is 21 degrees, so 18 degrees isn't far below that but 13 degrees is. I've actually got some temperature sensors that I can use to determine which one is correct, so I'll try that. I was actually about to try reconnecting everything the way I had it, and then doing some data logging with the car up to temperature to see what the ECU says the fuel temp gets to vs the display readings. Worthwhile, I would I be better off trying your experiment?

Ok, so to confuse matters further I just tried disconnecting the ECU from the circuit. So with the output signal going directly to the Zeitronix display, the display reads 13 degrees celcius. With the output signal going directly to the ECU, the ECU says the fuel temperature is 18 degrees. So the two units are disagreeing on the reading, even when there is no interaction between them. I am thoroughly confused.

There is, but it only outputs a user defineable PWM signal. There is no way to relay the input signal to the output.

Not a bad idea, except I don't think it can be done with the Link plug-in. From what I can see, there is no digital output from the ECU that can simply relay a signal. There are auxiliary outputs, but these are used to control solenoids.

Thanks Mat

Hi all, I've posted this question in the Home Tuning Vipec and Link thread, but didn't get a response so hoping it would get a little more exposure in it's own thread. I've also posted the question on the Link G4 forum, and emailed the guys at Zeitronix, but so far haven't had a response. Sorry if this turns out to be a bit of a read, but I want to be sure I detail everything I have done. I am having a bit of an issue with my Zeitronix ethanol content analyser and Continental flex fuel sensor. I have it all wired up and working, but the issue I am having is with trying to configure the input in the Link ECU. I just can't get the ECU and the Zeitronix display to read the same numbers. I believe, at the moment, that the issue is somewhere in the way I have wired the setup. So to help clarify, here is a quick diagram I drew in paint (tried to embed, but the topic wouldn't post...) http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/941028398/689720745/zeitronix-eca-wiring-png Basically, I have the Continental sensor wired to a switched 12v power source and earthed at the chassis. The installation manual says to wire it to the ECU power source, but I couldn't see a reason that was necessary so I just have it wired to an accessory 12v. Possible issue there? Then, I have the signal output wire from the sensor running to the Zeitronix display in-cabin. From here, rather than using the analog signal output from the Zeitronix display, I simply spliced into the sensor signal wire and pinned it to the Digital Input 5 position on the Link XS loom. The reason I did this was because I want to keep the signal digital, because I don't have a free analog input for the ECU. This all appears to work fine, until I try to configure the sensor in PCLink. I have selected the GM Siemens Ethanol Sensor option from the list, as per instruction from Link. Now if I turn the Internal Pull-up Resistor on, and have the 'Active Edge' setting set to 'Rising' then the fuel temperature reads 132 degrees celcius, which is clearly wrong. If I change the Active Edge setting to 'Falling' then the temp reads 18 degrees celcius. Which might be ok, except the Zeitronix display reads 12 degrees celcius. If I turn the Internal Pull-up Resistor off, and have the Active Edge set to Falling, then I go back to the 132 degrees celcius reading. Switch the Active Edge to Rising, and I get 23 degrees celcius, which still doesn't match the 12 degrees showing on the display. It should also be noted that I am not sure which reading is correct, I just know that they don't match up. Now I am aware that the Zeitronix display has it's own internal pull-up, so I figured perhaps the display and the ECU are interacting with each other and messing up the reading. So I tried disconnecting the digital signal wire from the Zeitronix display, so it is only connected to the ECU. Like this, with the Internal Pull-up Resistor switched off in PCLink, I didn't get a signal from the sensor. With it on and the Active Edge set to Falling, I got the reading of 18 degrees celcius again. So I believe the issue is that I have the ECU spliced into the digital signal wire, and the two units are confusing each other. Thing is, what can I do about it? I don't have a free analog input for the ECU, so I can't use the analog output from the display. Can I simply not use the Zeitronix display and have the ECU receive a digital signal? Or is there another way I can divide the signal so that both units function correctly? Any help would be much appreciated, and apologies again for the lengthy post. Cheers, Martin.

I needed to modify my stock cradle to fit the pump in tank, as the 460LPH pump is too big to fit in the same position. But again, very minor stuff, took 5 minutes.

Do agree, was on a different page with my last post, sorry.

The wastegate entry being at a right angle doesn't cause as many problems as one would assume. At least not in my application. Stao welded my gate off the housing like that, but it has no problems with boost control at all, though my tuner and I both thought it would be an issue. Mine is venting to atmo though.

Would that design not create a lot of turbulence with the return right after the turbine?

Very minor mods needed.

I've got my stock injectors sitting in a box at home, ill measure them for you tomorrow. Pretty sure they are 14mm though.

Oh dude Wtf happened??

Nismo pumps are quiet in comparison! Haha.

I believe the Nismo pump is designed to run with the lower voltage that the pump speed controller supplies them with. The issue with aftermarket pumps like Bosch and Walbro is they are designed to work at 14v and they struggle with lower voltage. So Yeh, shouldn't need to rewire for the Nismo.

Can confirm. My ID1000's worked fine on my old Nistune. The idle is better with the Link for sure, but I doubt that was solely because of the injectors. The car never idled perfectly with the Nistune.

Yep, that's where they work well. But you're not gonna pick up any power by bolting one on.

Yeh a CAI isn't going to make any difference to your power figure. Where they do help, is with heat soak. Do a few hot laps around a track and a good heatshield/CAI will help slow the heat soak of the system.

Make up the leak tester, drive to your local servo and use their tyre inflator.

Nice! Getting done today or this week sometime? Bumper looks great, I like that you left the inside of the vent dark. Contrasts well.

Haha I think I'm going to leave it at that. Was tempted to do the cluster surround as well, but I do think it would be a bit much. I'm probably going to make some other parts to tidy up the engine bay some more, carbon airbox, fusebox and radiator shroud maybe... Haha go for it man, it works really well. The distribution blocks I used are just from Jaycar, cost about 3 bucks each. Each screw has a pin coming out from behind it, so I just bridged them all together with 12ga wire.

Think carefully about why you want to change to a FFP before you do. I can tell you now, they don't make working on the car easier. They make it a hell of a lot harder. Spark plugs are one thing, getting in and around the engine bay is another, and oil filter changes are a right pain in the ass. That said, I love my Plazmaman. Just recommend thinking about it, if you're doing it to make life easier then I don't recommend it.

Small update. Finished and refitted the rest of my carbon parts: I messed the clear coat up in a few places, so some areas look a bit messy. Will fix that when I can be bothered haha. I've also decided to ditch the white interior bits. Was a silly idea, not sure why I went for that. Have ordered black leather gaiters for the centre console, gear surround and handbrake. Also want to get the steering wheel retrimmed, as it's looking a little worn these days. Otherwise, I tried to set up the ethanol sensor in the ECU software, but couldn't get it right. No matter what settings I used, I couldn't get the ECU to read the same as the Zeitronix display. Have asked for help on here and on the Link forum, but so far no replies. Hoping to get a reply soon, because I plan to book the car in for the tune this week, so would like to know for sure that my Zeitronix kit doesn't have an issue before it goes on the dyno.

Well when I first got the AEM, BEFORE I had any suspicions about it's accuracy, my tuner actually commented about how accurate it was. Said it read dead on exactly the same as his. I'm only suspicious now because of how rich it reads, but that could well be my tune.

PM sent mate, I'll take em if you got em!