Hanaldo

Sounds like the same story as me ^ I've done about 600kms on the clutch now, it hardly ever does it anymore. Wasn't sure if that's because I've gotten used to it and learned how to drive it or if it had stopped doing it

Oh sweet, PM sent dude

Yeh I definitely want the sliders though

Stock turbo will be fine at 10psi dude

Bit presumptuous Socs, have no idea what mods he has. R&R pulls timing and makes the car run rich, this problem sounds more like high boost is blowing out the spark. What spark plugs are you using mate? Little more info would be helpful, what modifications do you have? Mods will move the thread to correct section.

Yeh lol, I didn't mean to imply that you should do it all by hand. Definitely use an orbital sander. Some bits will have to be done by hand though, which is where my advice comes into it It's really that easy man, just time consuming. Not much advice to be given as it's really not hard.

Guys don't really worry about how many people are 'confirmed'. At my last cruise I had 6 people express interest, ended up getting close to 50 cars show up. Just remember that there are a lot of people that will tell their mates or sit in the shadows and not post anything. This cruise has been posted on a number of sites so I'm sure you will get a good turnout Rowan

Well in the Flintstones their automobile is light enough to pick up and run, so they must be onto something!

For sure ^ You don't need a floor either. Cut that bitch out and just hang onto the steering wheel.

Use a solid block! Don't just use your hands as you will only be applying pressure where your finger tips are. Make sure you use a solid block for the whole thing, and if possible it's best to use a curved object when you do curved areas.

Try swapping the fpr with a known working one. Probably not the cause, but best way to eliminate problems is to start with the cheapest solutions and work your way up

I'm in the hills mate, in between Midland and Mundaring. Bit far from Bunbury I'll get a clip of the clutch a bit later today. I think the sound is coming from the gearbox/clutch area, but sometimes there is a knocking coming from further back in the car as well. I bought a full R34 GTT donor car from KYP, they did the conversion as well. Will take it back to them on Monday. There is also a shudder/vibration at the friction point of when you take the clutch out, but KYP said that may be because it's a racing clutch and it has started to go away as the clutch has worn in. But I really hope they haven't f**ked something up in there, I can't afford a new clutch

If those are your only mods then it wouldn't be your MAF, unless you're talking about your AFM? MAF is just used for the stock boost gauge. But have you checked your fuel pressure regulator?

So it's not a problem then? What about this: Sometimes when I don't take off nicely (still getting used to clutch so can't drive it very well yet), so would be riding the clutch a little bit, the clutch sounds like it is knocking against something. Very very audible. I had assumed this was normal being a racing clutch as the clutch would just want to bite on and go, but I have been told that it's definitely not normal? Happens when I'm reversing lots as I don't like to take my foot all the way off the clutch...

Hey guys, I have recently converted my R34 GT to a GTT, so basically swapped everything over including engine, gearbox, etc. I had to get a brand new clutch to suit the pull type of the R34 gearbox so I bought a Exedy organic racing clutch. Now I notice when in neutral and I take my foot off the clutch I can hear a whirring/grinding sort of noise coming from the gearbox/clutch sort of area. Goes away when I put the clutch back in. What could this be? I thought it may be the clutch bearing, but the clutch is brand new? Thanks for any help, Martin.

Sliders as in the universal rails? How would I know what rails to buy though, wouldn't they be different widths and things so they might fit my car but not the seat? Bride rails are out of the question unless I can get some second hand ones for cheap, I'm not spending 700 bucks on a pair of rails, that's stupid.

Lol nicely spotted, I totally didn't even notice that Right, who's the guy that brought this thread back to life?

True that ^ But then again it seems pointless. A Nistune board will cost much the same as a SAFC, perhaps a little bit more considering you need the R32 Or Z32 board for an R33. You need a tune on the Nistune or the SAFC, Nistune will be cheaper to tune because it will already have a base image for your car. And then the gains you will get from the Nistune far outweigh those of a SAFC...

Is it street registered Brenden? Apparently very rare because as mentioned previously they don't meet power to weight ratio requirements. Funny that...

Win Win!

I got mine from these guys. Good quality as long as you're not worried about it being loud... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Dammit

Was considering drilling out rivets ^ But I'm not sure if the feet will line up with the holes... And then I've f**ked my original seats? What's my cheapest option here? Bride rails are like $315 each, that's ridiculous

Oh real, sweet I've got two bottles of the exact same stuff, almost bought three lol. Gonna give this a go next week when my coilovers arrive, will install em all at the same time.

Lol internet stats lie to you ^ I have an R34 GT, used to have an RB25DE Neo, recently put an RB25DET Neo into it. I am getting the same fuel consumption with the turbo as I was with the non-turbo motor, both are getting about 350-400kms to a tank depending how I drive. The 25DE motor is high compression so it uses a lot of fuel anyway. Just get a turbo. If you want good fuel consumption get a hybrid, Skylines are high performance cars. You're not gonna get good mileage from them.