Hanaldo

Little bit off topic but it has been mentioned, would it be possible to use one of these empty cans, and put some air filter paper in it? Been reading a bit about catch cans, and I know some people say to put SS wool inside a stocking and then put that in the can. But wouldn't filter paper do a better job of filtering the oil from the air? Still not 100% sure on how catch cans work, so I dunno if that is a stupid suggestion or not

So many generalizations in that statement... Not one of them correct

Swing n a miss, do you also put your oil in the wrong place in your car?

First off, if you can't be bothered rubbing it back then I wouldn't bother painting it at all, get someone to do it professionally. Spray painting isn't something you should rush Ok, considering it has already been painted, you don't need primer. If it has any scratches or dents that you want to fix then get some filler, filler acts as primer so you don't need to prime it again. If you are filling it, sand the bumper back with 240 grit, then spray on the filler. Once that has dried, sand most of it back with the 240 until you start to wear through to the paint underneath. Then go over it with 400 grit until it is all completely smooth. Make sure it is perfect, the paint won't hide anything. Now you apply the base coat. Do not wait for it to dry before you apply the clear coat. You should apply the clear coat within 15 minutes, otherwise they will not chemically bond and the clear coat will peel off. If you hit it perfectly straight out of the gun, then there shouldn't be any need to sand it back. Just buff it with some cutting compound to bring it up really smooth, and you're done Don't wax or polish the paint for 30 days, the paint really needs to set before you do. *EDIT* Also, if you are painting in this cold weather, you need to warm the bumper up. You shouldn't paint anything that is under 22 degrees, otherwise the paint will not shine and will come out matte. Just get a heat lamp or stick the bumper over a heater until you can feel that it is quite warm to the touch. Don't forget to wipe it down before you spray it, get rid of any dust and grease from your skin if you touched it.

You have clearly not read the '22" wheels on a 33' thread... That thread is just full of lols

For real? ^^^ Lol

Which bracket are you talking about mate? And what tools were you using?

Yeh so they are. Look the same anyway

Or do a quick google search: http://www.tqnyc.org/2009/04969/superspikk...0R33%20GTST.jpg

Check out the show n shine threads dude, there are a couple GTST's in there with 32 GTR wheels

Maybe try borrowing someones filters to put on? Doubt it's the filters though, but that will rule that out. If that doesn't work, maybe borrow their AFM's and see if that fixes it... Just eliminate possibilities

The difference in power would be between dyno's. I would trust ASG's dyno to be more accurate than X-Speed's dyno... My experience anyway

Fixed Car will always be the same, dyno's will read differently. They are only a tuning tool, you shouldn't use them for comparison. Steve, didn't you trust what us WA inhabitants said about it being accurate?

Fair enough 20hp isn't much of a noticeable difference anyway, I wouldn't be too fussed about it.

Yeh, thought it would be pretty much correct. Does a SAFC Neo prevent boost cuts so you can run higher boost though? Surely with a stand-alone aftermarket ECU you could run a bit more timing and boost, bring it a bit closer to 280?

That sounds about right for the engine mods you have? You don't have an aftermarket ECU, if you got a full aftermarket ECU and got rid of that SAFC Neo, upped the boost a bit, then you would probably get a bit closer to 280.

Lol a condom over the return does the same thing...

Great, thanks for that Phil. I didn't really understand what the mounting blocks were because I had a look at my stock brake lines and they look pretty much exactly the same as the braided ones (obviously rubber though, not braided lol). I just wanted to make sure that you needed mounting blocks for braided lines to stop them rubbing against other soft lines or something like that, but now I'm fairly sure that it is a fairly straightforward swap.

I warped my standard rotors by getting the rotors hot and then sitting on the brake when I'm stationary, like at a traffic light?

I take it you're not separating

Not why it needs tuning though

My money would still be on rotors. Could have been glazed, but I would still say they are warped... But also check your tyre pressures. Happened to me on the weekend, felt like something was very very wrong, like the wheels were about to fall off, steering wheel shaking violently, car wasn't handling properly... Checked the tyre pressures the next day, and they had dropped quite low. Pumped em up to 38psi and that fixed all the problems. I doubt you are experiencing the same thing because my problems weren't while I was braking, more while I was cornering. But worth a go anyway.

99% sure they are the same mate, differences between the RB25DET and RB25DET Neo are all internal not external, so parts like that should be a straight match. Can anyone else with a bit more knowledge confirm that?

Australia 2-1 Serbia; Germany 1-0 Ghana. Not enough for Australia to go through to the last 16 What a good effort though. Anyone who tries to tell me Australia can't play football, I will be pointing them to that match. Unlucky Socceroos

Australia 2-0 Serbia... This is what the Socceroos are about