Hanaldo

Or Tein Flex are compatible with the EDFC, get one of those and do it electronically

Lol dude, settle down. Why do you want someone to be specific? Some people here will say go for this brand, some people will say no go for that brand. Are you honestly just going to go out and buy the first exhaust someone tells you to just because it is their opinion? Do your own research and come to your own conclusions. If you find something you think might be good, do a bit of research, and if you still questions THEN post. There is an absolute ton of threads here about ebay exhausts, jap brand exhausts, etc. Check out the dyno threads and see what exhausts people are getting good numbers with. Those are actually proven on the dyno, not some guy on ebay claiming it has been proven on the dyno. I used to think split dump pipes were my best option, after a little bit of a search i now know otherwise, i never posted a single thread about it. But for the sake of this thread, i'll throw in my 2c. I have a 3" bellmouth dump made by AGP, it is identical to the one on JustJap. I'm very happy with it. Now go check out the dyno threads and see if it meets your needs.

There is a stickied thread for this exact purpose mate

I just sprayed my own bonnet, fenders and headlight eyebrows; cost me $168 all up Lol, if you are near the hills, there is a guy that works for himself at a place called Stonehouse in Sawyers Valley, he did an awesome job of painting my spoiler and only charged me $150 when every other place quoted me $350-$400. Definitely recommend him.

Exhaust are generally much of a muchness. You can get down into fine details about quality of the steel, quality of the welds, shape of the bends, etc. But i think the most important part of an exhaust other than being mandrel bent for higher flow, is that it bolts up to the turbo, cat, and mounts without any hassle or modification. Often cheap Chinese exhausts aren't made very well and either the bolt holes don't line up or you can't fit a nut onto the bolt because of poor design. But then some cheap exhausts do match up. So it comes down to whether you are willing to take the chance with a product that will have no customer support, and possibly not be a very good product at all. Or you can spend a bit more money and buy a Japanese brand with very good reputation and get a quality piece of work with customer support if anything does go wrong.

Lol that is still fail English?

GTR has AWD...

Lol ohhhh, ok haha, now i get ya. I'll get him to check it out. He said he has found a few f**ked vacuum hoses as well, so we are waiting on new silicon vacuum line to come in to replace it all, hopefully get rid of any vacuum leaks.

I would just buy the correct globes? It should say what globes you need on your headlight, will be molded into the plastic. Some globes are the equivalent to others, but i would just look for the ones that it says on your headlights.

Pretty sure Nistune doesn't affect the auto transmission side of things, that is one of the benefits of Nistune compared to PFC, etc.

What is the exhaust, turbo-back, cat-back? And what size? I doubt you will see anywhere near 250rwkw with those mods...

Lol, easiest way would be to turn on your headlights and see if they are xenon or halogen And to answer your second question, HID's conversion kits are insanely easy to install. literally plug and play, make sure you get the bulbs to suit your car though. If it is anything like mine then you will need H4 bulbs

Ok i had to read that a couple of times to decipher it... But after figuring out what i think you are trying to say, you will find that officers on patrol can setup wherever they feel it is likely they will catch speeders, so it is entirely random.

Yeh ok, i'll get him to check it out. But i think it was all connected up, because that t-piece is what his work colleagues blocked up to stop it idling high.

Cheers man Well i haven't had a look at the car yet, but my mate has said he looked for the blocked off hose and sensor that Keith was talking about and said he couldn't find it, everything seems to be connected. Throttle body is also fully closed at idle... So we are still unsure of what it is. I would like to take a look at it myself because i think i know the hose that Keith was talking about, but until then we are still stumped

Coming to think of it, i had also heard they had gone out of business. All lies lol, i never really paid much attention to it

Have a read of the Nistune thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Nistune-t181930.html or some of the dyno result threads, there are plenty of cars making over 500rwhp and still not hitting the limits of the Nistune.

Cheers mate, should be looking at it tomorrow sometime, i'll let you know

http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=502 Rough guide. I didn't pay that much for mine though, speak to Clint (username: monga); he was able to source me my boost gauge for a little bit cheaper than JustJap have. No promises though because he doesn't usually stock them, i don't know how hard it was for him to find for me. They are a little bit more expensive than the 'cheap' gauges, but i can't fault them for anything really, and if you are going to be monitoring vital engine statistics then it is better to be safe than sorry

I recommend Shadow for good accurate gauges that won't break the bank. I have Shadow Pro Series boost, water temp, oil temp, and volts gauges, they are all very accurate and read the same as my ARK multi function dash. The boost gauge reads the same as my Greddy Profec BSpec II boost controller, and the voltmeter reads the same as my Apexi turbo timer, so i can't fault them for accuracy. They are also Defi look alikes, so they are great looking gauges too.

They don't make them anymore, don't listen to ebay sellers. They have started making a new version of it, which is what Nengun sells, and you will probably find that the ebay ones are either not brand new or the seller has had them sitting for quite a long time which isn't unlikely. But why do you want to buy brand new? Bloody expensive brand new, you might as well get a ViPEC for a better price. Scope out the for sale sections, much better prices second hand. For example: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ap...33-t323468.html

Cheers man. If it is that then i am going to slap him round the head lol

We will check it out, cheers man. What is the sensor for do you know?

Yeh we have already replaced the AAC, and have connected all the vacuum lines back up again. Hmmm that seems like a good suggestion, how do we check if the TB is completely shut? Also, would that cause the lurching while driving? Because it only does it on deceleration and cruising, not on acceleration...

They blocked off the vacuum line to the AAC to stop it idling so high. Not sure how it worked, because as you said it should be the only way of adjusting the idle mechanically. It did lower the idle rpm, it just caused it to hunt. And no, everything is stock apart from the things i mentioned above. We haven't tried the AFM, can give that a go if you think it may be a culprit? I had thought of it, but i thought if the AFM was stuffed or dirty then it wouldn't accelerate fine would it?