Hanaldo

Oh I'm pretty sure it's needed all the time

Don't forget all those fuel pumps!

No no no no, you're mistaking us with Nissansilvia.com. This is a HORRIBLE place to ask questions about Skylines. Awesome place to SEARCH and RESEARCH though...

Better make it 7 fuel pumps. Just to be safe. Maybe 8. You can never have too many fuel pumps. If you run enough fuel pumps, you won't need the fuel pressure reg. They'll regulate each other. Like a team.

OP, have you considered swapping to an RB25/RB26? These are better. Why not swap to an RB25/RB26? RB25/RB26 would be better at these power levels. I think you should do it. I hope I was able to suggest this to you before you went ahead with the RB20, because RB25/RB26 are better. At these power levels. Or buy an R32 GTR.

Fibreglass is probably the best/easiest option. You could quite easily patch that up with fibreglass back to factory appearance, something you'll never achieve with melting the plastic or gluing metal bits on. I'd just recommend getting some practise first if you don't have any experience fibreglassing, the resin can make quite a mess if you don't know what you're doing.

Lol... Yeh a 6266 will certainly get you to 400hp... More research. That's all I'm gonna say lol. Lots more research.

Yeh that happens. Means your fuel probably heated up a fair bit. Nothing to worry about.

Nice job! Wish my engine bay had that much space

Agree, go black. Personally I think colours like blue, orange, green etc. look horrendous and only work on full track/drift setup cars because they have the credibility to back it up. But each to their own. As for the SAFC, again don't bother. They are rubbish, you can't adjust timing with them and its just going to be another thing you rip out when you get a proper ecu. Just set the boost controller at 9-10psi (depending on if your stock ecu let's you, you may hit R&R earlier) and leave it at that until you can afford an ecu and proper tune.

Have you been in an RB30 though? Ohhhhhhh the torque... Completely different animal.

Good stuff

You're going about things the right way, but don't bother with the FPR. You really don't need one unless you max your injectors, and in that case you're better off upgrading your injectors. If you don't max your injectors then you will just be setting the fuel pressure to standard anyway, hence the FPR does nothing. You would be much better off selling the FPR for a couple of hundred and putting that towards an ECU. A good tune is the best thing you will ever do to your car, so put the ECU higher up the priority list. Also, you mentioned getting a Z32 afm in one of your earlier posts. Keep in mind you can't use that without a tune-able ECU, so you will need to get the ECU first. Not sure if you plan on using that 80mm throttle body that came with the car, but I'd recommend selling that as well and putting the money towards something that will be of benefit

I'm following along too Just a word of advice; keep an eye on that oil sandwich plate for the first few days. They have a nasty tendency to develop leaks. Just keep an eye on it and sort out any issues if it gives any.

They don't need an external 2k2 pull up resistor like the GM Siemens sensors, I knew that much. I thought that was because they used the internal pull up though... What about the active edge? Leave it on rising?

Why do you need a 100% effective heat exchanger? Your fuel doesn't need to be ambient air temperature, you just want to keep it reasonable. A cooler will do the job.

Not so much a tuning question as such, but figured this is possibly the most relevant place to ask; I'm currently setting up my ethanol content sensor, and am a bit unsure of how to set it up on PCLink. Just for clarification, the sensor is the Continental flow-through type (13577394). First of all, I am using the sensor in conjunction with the Zeitronix ECA, and I currently have it wired as per the ECA instructions with the sensor outputting to the ECA, and the ECA outputting an analog signal which I have pinned into the Volt 6 position on the XS Loom. However thinking about it, I do believe I should redo this so that the ECU gets its signal in digital form straight from the sensor. Am I correct in thinking that doing so would provide me with both the ethanol percentage and fuel temperature readings? As well as freeing up what is my last analog input... Would there be any issue in running the signal wire from the sensor to the ECA, and then splicing into that wire to get the signal to the ECU? Just not totally sure how the signals work, digital vs analog, don't want to do something that could cause a misreading or something like that Secondly, I had a look at how to configure the sensor in PCLink if I were to use the digital input. I assume I need to turn the "Pull-up Resistor" setting to on? What about the active edge, what does that do? Do I set that to rising or falling?

Would be better to set up a fuel cooler if you are worried about fuel temperatures.

Epoxy not silicon

Agree... Dry the condensation out with your heat gun, then make sure everything is sealed properly.

Haha maybe. PM me if you like, depends what sort of stuff you want done, if I don't think I can do it nicely then I won't risk ruining parts.

I think you will find your problem is something else entirely man, I've got a fuel pressure gauge on mine and the pressure begins draining off almost immediately after switching the car off. Takes less than 5 minutes or so to drain off all the pressure. I don't have issues starting no matter how long the car sits for. Regardless, surely you prime your fuel pump before starting?

As above, use the radio for your constant power. Switched power can be sourced from the cigarette lighter, while I got my illumination 12v from the ring of light around the cigarette lighter, that's the single pin plug. Do just make sure you check the current draw, especially if you tend to use the cigarette lighter for a GPS or other accessories, you might find it starts blowing fuses often if you overload it. But I think the Tein EDFC is a simple unit, I can't see it drawing a load of current.

You mean the projectors? Got them from the retrofit source, but they aren't exactly inserts haha.

Next to the fuse box? So you're running quite long fuel lines to it? I was going to do that but was reluctant to have longer fuel lines than necessary. The spot I ended up putting it works quite nicely because the sensor fits well and I only needed to add half a meter or so of fuel line to tee it in. I got my switched 12v source from the cigarette lighter, yes.