Hanaldo

Yeh, me too... Wondering if maybe this caused some of my power issues, but I don't think so. Tuners never mentioned fuel was a problem, and it wouldn't have affected response anyway. In any case, I'm sure it wasn't doing any good, so I'm glad to be rid of it!

Might have found the issue! Pulled the regulator off last night and had a look at it, but couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. So then I had a look at the piece of return line that came off the regulator and looped around the fuel filter and spotted this: There's some sort of restrictor in there. Makes me wonder where this hose came from, I never purchased any hose with a restrictor in it. In fact from memory I actually just reused the standard return line, though surely they don't have a restrictor in there? Amazes me that it didn't cause any problems until now. Anyway, haven't had a chance to check whether I can lower the fuel pressure now, will finish installing the ethanol sensor and put it all back together and report back!

I realise this is a late reply, but in case it is of any benefit to others. 12-gauge cable isn't big enough to use from the battery to relay. I would be using 8ga as a minimum here. Then from the relay to the fuel pump, 12ga is fine. Personally I used a 60a relay, but running a 30a inline fuse. Ground the fuel pump close to the fuel pump, doesn't need to be close to the battery. Minimum fuse and relay size depends on how much current your fuel pump draws, I don't know what Supra fuel pumps draw. You need to find that out.

Which has only manifested itself as an issue now, after installing a bigger fuel pump? After running without issue for over a year on the old pump setup?

It's a Sard FPR, I forget what type, but same as this one: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16736 I'm not sure if the loop I've got in the return line before the dampener is causing any issues. It could be. Awesome, thanks mate. How far should I up the fuel pressure to be sure that the regulator has control again? Just over the minimum I can run, or should I up it by a bit, say to 70psi?

Well I can eliminate that theory, just tried adjusting the FPR without any luck. Can't get it below 60psi no matter how far I turn it. I turned it up to about 63psi, though I think I will turn it up a little bit more just to be sure the regulator is in control again. Just to be sure, would this be considered a 'stable' fuel pressure? Or is this bouncing too much?

Is there any reason for me to keep the fuel dampener? Was going to relocate it, but if I don't need it at all then I may as well just delete it?

Probably also replace that turbo, cos that's gonna be utter junk at 400rwhp, IF it gets there. 5500rpm full boost lol.

Same! Definitely have to look at getting that done... How much did you pay to have the pulley anodized?

I'm using ID1000's, so that should work if I can't get the pressure back down. Although I will have to double check whether the pressure is stable or bouncing, it may have been bouncing... I haven't, no. I was going to, but thought it was all working correctly prior to the new pump, so if it's all correct then it shouldn't have changed? I didn't want to cover up any error I made by changing something else. Though I guess if the reg/return hose is too small then I just won't be able to lower the pressure at all? Yeh this was my thought, I wanted to be careful about changing things, hence this thread. Getting the car retuned isn't an issue, I'm in the process of setting the car up for flex-fuel so it was going to go back on the dyno for that anyway. The issue is I suppose it won't be driveable until I do get it tuned? I just had another thought about what may be causing the higher pressure, as I realised how I set the regulator up when I installed it. I put it at the top of the strut tower, but didn't want to relocate or delete the stock fuel dampener that sits right next to it. So I looped the fuel hose coming out of the regulator down around the fuel filter, and then back up again into the dampener. If you follow? It's not a tight loop, the hose doesn't kink at all I was trying to think about flow. In fact it seemed like it would be less of a restriction than having the hose come straight out of the regulator and 90 degrees into the dampener. But perhaps this is something that I've done on my car that explains why it hasn't been a problem for anyone else? Fortunately my Zeitronix ECA kit should be arriving today sometime and I need to install that in the return line anyway, so I will try unbolting the dampner and unlooping that hose, see if it changes anything.

Was 14v, haven't actually checked this time. I'll have to borrow a multimeter. The FPR is adjustable yeh. I was going to try to adjust the pressure, I just don't want to cover up any problems by doing so. It was all working fine with the old pump, so just want to be sure everything is ok.

Unfortunately I don't have another reg I can try, or any fuel hose I am pretty sure the reg is genuine, I bought it from a seller on here... Hmm, this is a bit trickier than I thought it would be

Dammit Well that's something you don't read in the brochure.

Yeh? Standard return line... Surely not everyone using this pump has upgraded fuel lines? Nah when priming it always goes to 43psi. It's only when the engine is running that it goes to 60psi.

Orrr, new thought... Is the Sard FPR perhaps too small for the 460lph pump? Can't keep up with the flow?

Hey guys, Just having a bit of a high fuel pressure problem after installing my new Walbro 460lph fuel pump, was hoping someone might be able to think of something I have done wrong here. So to give you all the information, I have just replaced my old Walbro GSS-342 with a brand new genuine Walbro F90000262. Straight swap over really, just removed the old pump and installed the new one, had to modify the cradle a tiny bit to fit obviously, but nothing drastic, very simple stuff. The only thing I did differently was instead of using the stock wiring harness, I ran wires from the pump directly through the lid using Superben's idea: Then from there to the relay and earth point, all as per normal. I otherwise haven't touched anything, didn't touch the fuel pressure regulator or anything in the engine bay from when the car was last running. I am using a Sard FPR as well. After finishing everything off, I primed the pump to check it was working and it seemed to be, got this: Seemed all good, so I primed it a couple more times for good measure, checked the pressure was still at 43psi, and then started the engine. Everything sounded fine, didn't suspect any issues until I looked at the gauge: This is just at idle, no throttle being applied. I checked everything over again, but for the life of me I can't figure out what I may have done to cause the fuel pressure to go out? Only thing I can think of is maybe having the lid/hoses off for a couple of days may have let air/something else in to upset the regulator? OR, perhaps there was an issue with my old fuel pump? I wouldn't have suspected so, it never surged or gave any trouble. Tuners never mentioned the car starving of fuel at all. Any ideas? I would simply adjust the regulator again, but I'd like to know why the pressure has jumped up in the first place...

Mat, just check your spark plug fluid before you go, you'll be fine

New fuel pump is in its cradle. Tight fit, needed to modify the cradle a bit to get it to fit, but it's pretty good. Almost had it finished tonight except I bought the wrong size terminals to rewire the relay with so had to delay it to tomorrow. Am upgrading all the wiring between the relay and the pump to 12 gauge wire to handle the ridiculous current this thing draws. Means no more stock plug though, so I am using superben's idea of using ls1 coil pack cover bolts as terminals through the lid. I'll finish it off tomorrow and post pics.

The R34 plug-in model doesn't come with an on-board MAP sensor. Brody, the R34 GTT does have a MAP sensor. It is located at the back of the engine bay, above your brake lines. Like so: Personally 18psi was never going to be enough, so I just skipped any messing around and bought the expansion harness and a Haltech 3-bar MAP sensor.

The way I have seen it done is to remove the plastic fittings and from the lid, and replace them with Speedflow bulkhead fittings or similar. I assume by cutting or drilling the plastic fittings out, and then using suitable sized fittings to replace them. Unsure how they are sealed in as I'm not sure exactly which Speedflow fittings were used. I'm pretty sure this is how 34GeeTeeTee has done his, as JEM said his plastic fittings on his lid were actually a restriction. I'm sure he can confirm exactly what was done.

Well couple of updates to mention. After going away on holiday shortly after my last post, I came home with almost 0 motivation to do anything on the car. But, my Powercruise invitation arrived in the mail a couple of weeks ago, and then there was the news that E85 is now available at the pump in WA. Ignoring the fact that the only pump is 60km away from where I live, this gave me a semi. So, first of all. I pulled out the thermostat (prick of a job with the Plazmaman plenum ), and it was farked. Half the seal was missing, meaning it was half open all the time which explains the running cold business. So I picked up a Tridon replacement from Auto1 for thieves money, and sorted that out. Took it for a drive, all good again, back up to a rock solid 78.3 degrees within 10 minutes or so of driving. Naice. Then, before doing anything else, I wanted to make sure the engine is still actually ok, I haven't checked since pulling it apart and given the horrific results I've had, I wouldn't have been surprised if something had given up inside. Compression test revealed: Cyl 1: 145psi Cyl 2: 150psi Cyl 3: 155psi Cyl 4: 150psi Cyl 5: 150psi Cyl 6: 145psi. I also tried a wet test, but didn't see much of an increase in those numbers. So they are a bit lower than the 180psi across all 6 that I got last time I tested the motor, but that wasn't totally unexpected due to now having the Tomei camshafts. All in all, I think it's quite safe to say that the results are generally quite ok. Next on the list of things to check is valve lash. Running on a current theory after talking with Lithium, if the valve clearances are too tight than that would actually explain nearly ALL my problems, ie. low power, laggy, high idle (~1200rpm), hard to hot start, etc. Now the valve clearances WERE set by Headtorque when the head was rebuilt, and they installed my cams so they should have used the Tomei specs and they SHOULD be correct. But, it is a little too coincidental to ignore, so I will be checking them anyway to rule it out. I actually tried to do this on Friday, but only got as far as removing the breather hoses before I realised I don't have a 27mm socket to turn the motor So I will borrow one from my dad tomorrow evening and get back into it on Tuesday. Then, the other thing I am doing on Tuesday is installing this: My new Walbro F90000267 E85 specific fuel pump. After chatting with my tuner, I decided the old GSS-342 was running too much of a risk, even if some people say they work fine with E85. Better to be safe than sorry, and a bit of extra pumping power won't go astray anyway. Then of course, the last piece of the puzzle before I give my tuner a call: Ignore that picture as it is just one I found on Google, my Zeitronix ECA kit is still coming in the mail I would just like to say, I emailed Alpha Omega Parts and Services at about 8pm on Wednesday night, Wing replied within 5 minutes and then again on Friday when he let me know that my money had cleared and my stuff was on it's way. Just about the best customer service I have experienced, and they had the cheapest price I could find for the kit, so big thumbs up to Alpha Omega! That's about it for now really, stay tuned for more soon

Yeh that's the same as the Neo setup, had mine off not long ago to adjust the cam timing.

I'm amazed you guys are having problems with the ABS unit when you haven't done anything upstream of the ABS module. I have removed my calipers numerous times, and bled the brakes successfully every time. The only time I had issues with the ABS module is when I removed the brake lines from the master cylinder, letting in air up stream of the ABS module. When I tried to bleed the brakes afterwards, I of course pumped all the air into the ABS module and that caused some problems, but if all the air is downstream then you should be able to get it out without bleeding the ABS. Anyway, I managed to bleed my ABS properly without a power bleeder by just cracking the lines on the module. Got the ABS working a couple of times before I tried, and that seemed to be enough.

Best to fix the reversion issue before giving it to the tuner. Shouldn't be too hard to setup so that it can still be temporary, that intake clearly isn't going to work with the standard air box as it is anyway. I would suggest welding another 90 degree bend onto that intake pipe, one that positions the intake so that it can still work with the standard air box. Or at the very least, buy a 90 degree silicon joiner and use that for now. With any luck, that will position the AFM far enough away from the turbo, and the two bends in the intake pipe should help prevent any reversion as well.

Needs to be plumb back, flutter is still going to cause issues with air flow. I think the issue will be with reversion though. That AFM is too close to the turbo there, and your intake pipe only has one bend in it. An 'S' shape would be better, and the AFM should be a bit further away from the turbo. Really you should be extending that intake pipe anyway, you've got that pod filter sitting right in the hottest part of the engine bay.