Hanaldo

Ha! Got your 34 yet Mani? Some things take time Bah, it's frustrating but it's doable. Nothing says bonding like doing a pull-type clutch on the ground with a mate. Like goin through 'Nam together. Car looks good Timmy!

Ah I see, understandable. I've got a spray setup with a compressor and guns, but I only use it on larger panels or panels where I need to paint match. If I'm spraying a small object from my car black or anything that doesn't need to match my white, then I prefer spraying with a rattle can then flatting and polishing. The paint is cheaper and it takes less time than setting up the guns, mixing paint, then cleaning everything after Nice idea, you definitely have the patience and eye for detail to do that sort of work!

Do you flat and polish your panels after you've painted them Ants? It is a bit of extra work, but I find when using rattle cans it is essential to getting a really high quality finish. Not too necessary with white, but still makes it look a lot better.

You'll love the projectors, they are miiiiiiles better. Look classy too. It's such an easy mod to do as well, I really think everybody with a 34 should be looking at them.

Worst. Idea. Evar. Ain't nothin like relying on batteries to be able to get into your car.

My comment was based on the reputation of the Bee*R limiters to do damage. Whilst I don't have any first hand experience with them, I do understand how they work. And it's not good. In case you're interested or unaware, the Bee*R limiters work by grounding the coils rather than cutting signal completely. So when you hit the desired RPM, the Bee*R sends PWM pulses to the ground side of the coil and it doesn't fire. However PWM signals aren't just an on/off voltage, they are a pulse with varying duration, and in the case of ignition, the coil pack fires when it reaches the END of the pulse not the start. So when the revs drop below the desired limit again, the Bee*R stops sending the pulses to the ground side, and the coil packs can fire again. But because it has actually delayed the pulse, the spark can now occur at the wrong point in the cycle, and effectively results in detonation the same way advancing your timing too far would. In addition, if the yellow gain knob is set too harshly (which everyone does because the faster it cuts the cooler it sounds), you get a very aggressive accel/decel, which is no good for your oil pump or valvetrain. I can see why these things were popular when they first came out, as the idea of an ignition cut vs fuel cut sounds much healthier for the engine. However I think it was done the wrong way, and it should be cutting the signal completely via a relay, so that the cut only ever starts as a spark happens and only ever ends as a spark happens, thus cutting the cycle completely. However modern ECU's like Haltech, Link, Adaptronic etc. have all sorted out a way of making fuel cuts quite safe, as they allow a percentage of fuel/ignition to be trimmed before the hard cut, at very very fine intervals.

Your engine bay is starting to look like Mat's! Sort that out, get some colour in there! All this matte black is making me depressed Seriously though mate, I love this thing. A 6466 is the turbo I would go for if I was to build my motor and go high mount, so I like the setup.

The thought of a Bee*R on this thing makes me sad Whyyy Robbie?

Yeh that's what I was getting at; I had a look under my Opa's car in Germany once. 1997 Audi S4, had so much rust underneath it made me nervous getting in it. Still, beats sliding off the road because they didn't salt it!

Very nice. Do you have much problem with rust over there, with all the snow?

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it? I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

Second half is now also finished. Didn't take any photos, but it looks the same as the first half Bought a - 10 Speedflow fitting for the breather return as well. Just waiting for my aluminium flat bar to arrive so I can bond it in, drill and tap it, then bond the two halves together and trim em up! Once I can fit it into the car, I'll work out my plumbing route for the bov return.

Damn thing didn't post: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V71k0VNi-vU&list=UUrTGbs2Wk4T5hblvKod-5zQ Also forgot to add, the total weight of the first half untrimmed is a hefty 112 grams, and takes all of my 85kg's standing on it without any distortion.

Structural epoxy adhesive. Put both halves back in the mould untrimmed, put the adhesive on the joint and then bolt the two halves of the mould together. Have now infused the other half and filmed it this time, so for those that are interested, this is how I make each half:

Straight out of the mould, no cleaning up yet: Bit of residue from my release agent taking the sheen off it, so will polish it up later. Doing the second half today.

Love the composites work in here. Did you create the foam plugs for your duck wing and front lip yourself? Top notch work there. I assume they are made with a polyurethane foam or PVC foam? How did you go about making them dimensionally accurate and symmetrical?

Bit more progress: Moulds are finished: Carbon layed for the first half: Infusion stack completed and all bagged up: Aaand infusion completed and cured for 24 hours: I just need to post-cure for 4 hours, then I can demould to see how it went, so should have a finished half this afternoon. If it's gone well then I will infuse the second half tomorrow.

I enjoy BF4 more than I enjoyed COD. Only converted this generation, but the destructibility of everything in BF4 makes it a load of fun. Nothing like taking down a skyscraper full of enemies

+1 to BF4 being class. Quite a few bugs in the campaign though, leads to having to restart checkpoints occasionally because a storyline trigger fails. Campaign was also far too short. Online is obviously awesome, except I'm fkn rubbish at it. Was the same with COD. I think I try to play to 'realistically' with tactics and such, but everyone else just runs around like a mad man and doms me haha. FIFA is also good. But despite some smoother gameplay, it's still just FIFA really, same old. I'm really looking forward to seeing what Konami does with Pro Evolution this year, for me they have been the better games the last couple of years. I like that they refused to release PES 2014 on PS4, because they said it isn't a next generation game and they don't believe in releasing a current gen game onto a next gen platform. Makes me think they are really going to try to take full advantage of what the PS4 can do. Those are the only 2 games I've played so far. Assassins Creed has sort of worn a bit thin with me, they are awesome games but all too much of a muchness. COD has never been good, but unfortunately it's pretty much the only split screen game available at the moment. Developers better start making more local co-op games!

Very useful things to have though, they make fault finding a lot easier!

Well this one won't really be a factory bolt on because it's 4". As pictured, it fits perfectly on my Hypergear turbo in the factory location, so depending on peoples cooler piping layout it should be a simple bolt on. If there is enough interest, I will consider making another one with a 3" diameter. I imagine there's probably more people running that size than 4".

That is what I am planning on doing with mine. I'll be bonding in 12mm aluminium flat bar, then drilling and tapping for Speedflow fittings. Haven't quite worked out how to do it for the bov return though, I've got a GTR bov so the hose ID would need to be 1.5". Makes it a bit trickier. As for holding up to the clamping pressures required, the carbon fibre will hold a lot more than that. The thing I need to find out is whether or not my resin system can handle the heat required. My resin at the moment can take 90 degrees before it starts to soften. So I need to go take my car for a good drive on a hot day, then turn it off and let it sit. See how much heat the turbo radiates and how much of it the intake pipe soaks up. Have got an infrared thermometer that I'll use to get measurements. If it gets too hot, I'll need to find a resin with a higher HDT.

Well, got the barriers for my mould done yesterday: Took that picture before I had put the locators on the flange, but that's alright. Then meant to do the first half of the mould yesterday as well, but had another set back with my tooling gelcoat. It's a bit over 18 months old so part A had crystallised. Should have checked it a few days ago, but anyway. Went in the oven for 5 hours at 71 degrees, so good as new! Had to let it cool down over night, but got onto it first thing this morning: Just need to let that cure to a tack and then I can put the reinforcement layers on.

There is only one idea that counts... Screw it.

Thanks guys So, unfortunately yesterday I sanded through my gloss coat and had to do another coat which set me back another day. But today I finished flatting it down, then sanded up to 2000 grit: And then polished up to a mirror gloss: I tried to take some photos that show off how damn shiny this thing is, but couldn't get the lighting right. So just take my word that it's pretty damn polished! Better than the paint job on my car, that's for sure So it's ready to make a mould from now. Tomorrow I'll go get some more glass cloth and get started on that.