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Hanaldo

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Everything posted by Hanaldo

  1. Hanaldo
    It's not the cam gear that is worn out, the cas doesn't connect to the cam gear at all. It passes straight through the middle of it and into the camshaft. It's possibly the drive in the camshaft that is flogged out, not anything to do with the cam gear. Can happen when people don't fit the CAS properly, eg. not putting the spacers in between the CAS and the mount, causing the CAS to sit further in than it should and damaging things.
  2. Hanaldo
    So, to take another step in the right direction, time for some updates! Big ones! I want to do a bit of a detailed write-up on what I've been up to, so I'll do it over a couple of posts rather than one massive one I'll start with the performance updates first. After seeing Stao's results at the drags a few weeks a go, it convinced me that I should stop procrastinating with my setup and find out exactly what is holding it back once and for all. I began by doing an air leak test by pumping compressed air into this: It's simply a 3" rubber joiner and a PVC end cap with a bicycle valve stem melted into it. Cost me about $5 to make and works extremely well, you simply bolt this on in place of your pod filter and using an air compressor and a tyre inflator, pump as much air into it as you want or need. Without any engine noise, it makes it very easy to find leaks. In my case, I could initially only get about 2psi into the system and it would bleed off within a few seconds. I found there was a massive leak in the 4"-3" reducer on my intake pipe. Fixed this and managed to get about 5psi into the system before it would bleed off. I found that some very dodgy welding of the bung for the IAT sensor from a certain workshop (to remain un-named) had a lot of tiny holes in it, which were bleeding air off so quickly that I couldn't build more than 5psi. I fixed this with some Selleys Kneed-It and some epoxy resin. I then found a few other small leaks which I fixed up, and I can now get the system to hold 25psi without it bleeding off at all. Gotta be of some benefit! Now this is where it gets interesting. I decided that if I was going to get it back on the dyno for a retune, then I might as well cross everything that I thought could be an issue off the list. At the top of this list... Cam timing.
  3. Hanaldo
    I did think this might be what threw it out, but a couple of things are bugging me about it... 4.6 degrees and 7.8 degrees is a long way out. The inlet cam could have been messed with previously, but even if I ignore that, the exhaust was not adjustable. How much would a 0.003" skim throw out timing? Surely not almost 5 degrees. In used an OEM headgasket, so that hasn't changed.
  4. Hanaldo
    So did you check true TDC first using a piston stop? That's the critical part, if you don't get that exactly right then the rest of it won't mean much at all. If you did then that's about what I was expecting, I didn't expect mine to be out at all let alone by so much. Well JEM also did your exhaust cam gear, do you know if that is zeroed? They have probably installed the cam gear and then adjusted it to where it performed best, essentially 'hiding' if the cams were out at all.
  5. Hanaldo
    Yeh, like Auto1's next catalogue...
  6. Hanaldo
    Its not the stock marks that are the issue, it's that Tomei didn't get the cams quite perfect. You're not gonna see anything by lining up the stock marks, my timing marks were in the right place too. You need to actually check with a dial indicator that the lobe centreline is in the right spot according to the cam specs that Tomei supply with the cams. The stock timing marks just mean the gear is in the right place, it doesn't mean that Tomei got the cam in the right place.
  7. Hanaldo
    Yeh I'll book it in for a tune soon, hopefully not too far away.
  8. Hanaldo
    Yeh. Turns out they're not as accurate as Tomei say they are.
  9. Hanaldo
    Haha Yeh well that's what I was doing for the last two days, moving the gear backwards and forwards and not getting anywhere all sorted now, time to out it all back together. I somehow don't think my car will be very driveable until I get a tune now though
  10. Hanaldo
    No, when I started the intake cam was at 112.2°. So 7.8° retarded. Its now where it should be at 120°. With 4 different reference values on dial indicator to make sure
  11. Hanaldo
    60 out is 4 teeth on mine, each tooth is 15 crank degrees. I skipped a tooth trying to get more advancement on the gear, then ended up skipping it 2 teeth because it wasn't moving (was aware it couldn't be have been correct, was just trying something I knew would makea it move). Then I went to turn it back and accidentally turned it the wrong way, so it was 4 teeth. All good now, spot on 120 degrees! Just rechecking my exhaust but that should be perfect.
  12. Hanaldo
    Haha soooo after measuring it CORRECTLY this time, I've found that all my adjusting has put my intake cam at... 60° 60° out now! Haha. Would have expected that far out I would like be hitting valves, but I'm not. Now to correct!
  13. Hanaldo
    Car is near Mundaring, Trev. BUT, I have figured out the issue must have come to me in my sleep last night because I woke up knowing what it was. Its because I'm using a 180 degree wheel, bastard thing. I just got unlucky with where the degree value fell on the degree wheel, and lost track of which side of 0/180 I was measuring. So the first time I moved it one of my values was 172 and it all worked and I moved it but only by 4 degrees. Then the next times I tried to adjust it, the degree values had flipped to the OTHER side of 180. So I was getting something like 177-179 etc. but it was on the other side of TDC, which I didn't account for in my formula. Had my first value been at ~100° then it never would have flipped over and I wouldn't have had an issue, I just happened to get a value very close to 180 and 0. So essentially it was my formula that was wrong because it wasn't accounting for being on the other side. This could still happen with a 360 degree wheel but it would be even more unlikely that the degree value falls close to 0°. But really you just have to be quite vigilant of which side of TDC you are working on
  14. Hanaldo
    Not sure. Trev is the closest I know of but he is a few hour away.
  15. Hanaldo
    Nope, I'm calling it quits. I tried moving the dial indicator to the other lobe and setting it up again, end result was the same. So to double check I just took down the dial indicator measurements every 20 degrees and then plotted it in Excel, and it gave me a near perfect valve curve figure. So the dial indicator is tracking the lobe perfectly, it's not an issue with that. I am 100% stumped, I have absolutely no idea what is happening. Doesn't make any sense and nothing I do fixes it. Starting to wonder if there is an issue with the cam lobe symmetry. But surely it must be something more simple than that, I MUST be making a mistake somewhere. I just can't find it 2 whole days wasted doing this shit now
  16. Hanaldo
    Yep already tried that. Have also tried doing it graphically, so using another degree wheel and working out the mid point of the numbers on the image. It comes out the same every time. Its strange. When I adjust the gear, the final value stays the same. When I change the reference value the finale degree value changes. It should be opposite.
  17. Hanaldo
    Haha well the bigger the wheel the more accurate it is! Yeh I'm rechecking TDC every time. Thing is, even if TDC was out, that would give me the wrong degree, it wouldn't give me the same degree every time. The error must be elsewhere. I've tried using a different reference value on the dial indicator, and that gives me a different result. Which shouldn't happen. But I can't work out why it does that...
  18. Hanaldo
    Did that yesterday! I haven't got anywhere for 2 days now
  19. Hanaldo
    Ahhh this is getting ridiculous. I'm not getting anywhere. I've just adjusted the gear for the 6th time, but it cancels out. I've advanced it a quarter tooth 4 times, so one whole tooth. Each time the degree values change, but consistently, so I might get 39.5° and 168.5° and then I take it off and adjust it and get 37.5° and 165.5°, meaning I end up back at 116° every time. I don't understand. I've triple checked TDC, I've checked my formula, I've checked the dial indicator. Everything is correct but it's not working
  20. Hanaldo
  21. Hanaldo
    10"
  22. Hanaldo
    Yeh see my degree wheel is in the way of the tensioner. Can't wait get in there to loosen it without taking the degree wheel off.
  23. Hanaldo
    How did you remove the pulley without removing the belt? I can get the pulley off with the belt on, but it's impossible to get back on. So need to take the belt off, which means removing the degree wheel and moving the pointer.
  24. Hanaldo
    Dammit this VCT gear is a pain in the ass to adjust! Having to remove the degree wheel and pointer and timing belt and then reset it all is such a f**k around. Reallyyyyy wish I had bought some adaptor plates when I bought the exhaust gear
  25. Hanaldo
    Turns out this is what I need to do as well. VCT gear has no adjustment left. Need to skip it a tooth then advance the gear by 3.2 degrees. Trev, did you remark your TDC dimple?
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