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Hanaldo

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Everything posted by Hanaldo

  1. Hanaldo
    Yeh I suppose that's true, I guess hardly anyone would ever actually check that their poncams are dialled to what Tomei specify. I had known they can be out, but I thought by maybe a couple of degrees at most
  2. Hanaldo
    Yeh quite possibly, I just wish I knew what caused it to be so far out. The intake cam might make sense if it's a tooth out, someone might have thought they would get gains by advancing it a tooth. But the exhaust cam? That can only be the camshaft being so far out of spec Yeh? What else would cause it to go that far out when it's not adjustable?
  3. Hanaldo
    Yeh, well this coupled with the numerous air leaks being fixed as well as port matching the dump pipe and exhaust manifold, I should pick up a few kw here and there!
  4. Hanaldo
    So only 1 degree off Tomei specs. Doesn't explain why it's so far out. Is 1 tooth about right? It's 7.8 crank degrees out, so bloody close to 4 cam degrees. Is that about a tooth?
  5. Hanaldo
    Haha well hopefully I haven't done anything wrong yet! It is really quite simple once you understand what you're trying to do. The hardest part is actually setting up the dial indicator because of the lifter design. So need to preload the dial indicator otherwise there won't be any measurable change. Also need to make an extension rod and make sure it is parallel with the valve stem to avoid geometric errors, but then because of the tight space it's quite a challenge get to get the extension rod to sit nicely on the lifter without getting caught under the cam lobe. Not really hard, just fiddly and takes some time. I'll certainly put a write up in my build thread of how I did it once I've finished. Have been taking pictures along the way.
  6. Hanaldo
    Ah, even more tedious then I don't think I'll be worrying about that last half a crank degree on the intake side! Would be nice to get it perfect, but it took several tries with the HKS gear to get right. VCT gear would take all day.
  7. Hanaldo
    I might do, it's quite simple if you're not afraid of a bit of maths. Just gotta make sure the equipment is setup properly and you don't disturb it after it is! Yeh this is probably what I will do, but still makes for tedious work. So does the VCT gear have timing marks on it like an aftermarket gear, or do you need to work it out? I am picking a reference value on my dial indicator and noting the degree on the wheel. Then I rotate the crank forward one full rotation until the dial indicator gets back to my reference value and I note that degree value on the wheel. Then I add the ATDC value to the BTDC value and divide it by two to get the centre. So yes, how you said. So for example, one of the equations I can remember last night was checking the final adjustment. At my reference value on the dial indicator, I had 177.5° BTDC. Then one full rotation clockwise, I had 47.5° ATDC. Then because the degree wheel I'm using is only 180 degrees, I made BTDC a negative value. So I did -177.5 + 47.5 = -130. Divide that by two to get my centre point and I get -65. Then to get it back to the other side of the degree wheel you simply add 180 which = 115.0. Spot on!
  8. Hanaldo
    Yes, we shall see! These cam timing numbers give me confidence... Have been forced to stop until Monday though, don't have a 10mm allen key to take the VCT gear off. So I have until then to make sure these numbers are all spot on and find out how exactly to adjust the VCT gear.
  9. Hanaldo
    Wow. The intake cam is 7.8 degrees advanced. I've triple checked the equipment, I've triple checked the measurements. Its all correct, it's not an error from what I can see. But that is way out...
  10. Hanaldo
    And Yeh, I'm very surprised how far out it was. I don't understand how it could be so far out... Only the head has been decked when it was reconditioned, and there is no way it was decked enough to throw the timing out 4.6 degrees. So my only guess is that is how far out the camshaft was from its intended specs?
  11. Hanaldo
    Well the trouble with the intake gear is (I assume) we need to take the whole thing off and apart to adjust it. Which means taking the degree wheel, tensioner and timing belt off. Then adjusting it, then refitting it all and trying again. Unless someone can point out an easier way, I haven't done it before. Trev?
  12. Hanaldo
    Yep thanks Trev, confirmed what I later worked out just finished the exhaust cam. It was 4.6 degrees advanced. Have now set it to spot on 115 degrees BTDC. Now to do the intake... This is gonna be fun took about an hour and a half of dizzily trying to rotate the cam gear by 0.5 of a crank degree, and that's with being able to adjust the gear from the front. This intake gear is gonna be tedious if it's out
  13. Hanaldo
    Doing the exhaust cam by the way
  14. Hanaldo
    Ok, so I'm in the process of degreeing my cams, but I don't understand the Tomei cam spec card. Would somebody be able to take a look at the cam specs card on the Tomei website for the R34 Type B cams and help me out? I THINK the specs card is showing crank degrees rather than cam degrees, so I want the cam angle to be 115 degrees BTDC, correct?
  15. Hanaldo
    Except RB20's sound fantastic ^ OP, can't say I recommend doing it, but if you're set on it then it should be easy, just bolt it on.
  16. Hanaldo
    Yeh tuners here don't seem to even know what that is Nick, I bought my 2hp/24L air compressor, fitted air hose, tyre inflator, and dust blow gun all for $80. And my end cap I made up for about $2. Highly recommend, it's sooo easy to find leaks.
  17. Hanaldo
    Even so, it would take 5 minutes to jack the car up properly and avoid potential damage, plus be able to support the car on axle stands rather than getting under there like that. Jeez, the engine builder I go to for advice sometimes almost took my face when I stuck my head under the car to look for a spot to position the axle stand...
  18. Hanaldo
    Yeh? Thanks for that mate, I appreciate the offer.
  19. Hanaldo
    And R34 GTT. All the 20 boxes I have driven with (4 from memory) have felt extremely fragile in comparison to the 25 box. That said, Scott knows more about these things than me. Best get it checked out.
  20. Hanaldo
    Oh, I thought it was whining through the gears. NVM then. Sounds like an ordinary 20 box to me, they are Nissan's $2 hoe.
  21. Hanaldo
    Doesn't sound good
  22. Hanaldo
    Pfft, what rubbish, I can drive a car slower than a mirage if I wanted too... I just don't want to Mat/Lithium, someone please explain the picture on the previous page? What is this? What does this do? Do I want this? Cos I'm about ready to whip out the soldering iron and put some bubbles on my turbine if it's gonna make me go faster. Joking... But seriously. I wouldn't even know what to google with that
  23. Hanaldo
    Junk the whole thing.
  24. Hanaldo
    Well that's stoich, but the perfect AFR depends on the conditions. Ie, 14.7 at full load is gonna be real lean. Again, in theory, yes. You are improving the efficiency of your motor and therefore your fuel efficiency should improve. In reality, unless you had a super restrictive or dirty air filter, just changing the air filter alone isn't going to make any noticeable difference to your economy. Nor will it really affect your power.
  25. Hanaldo
    Haha, thanks mate I am also going to borrow or purchase some tungsten carbide rotary burrs. Need to pull off my JJR bellmouth dump pipe and match the opening to the gasket. Might also port the stock manifold while I'm there.
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