Hanaldo

Ahhh the placebo effect. The only flaw in the otherwise very accurate readings of the butt dyno. Also, getting more air through the inlet doesn't improve your fuel economy. There is a thing called the air:fuel ratio. Getting more air in means you can get more fuel in and hence make more power, but it doesn't improve economy. Yes. Until reality ruins theory.

I have a feeling you're overthinking this. Keep in mind that cost is a big factor; strong, lightweight parts are generally quite expensive to produce.

I don't understand what I'm looking at

Actually while I'm in here... Hey Mat. UPDATES!! I know you're keeping secrets!

Apparently too much, the jerk won't pay to post my turbo over to Vic...

Ok, so I got round to doing another leak test on my car using compressed air, first time I have done it since the last mods. I found three very big ones; one was a split in the silicon joiner on my turbo/intake caused by the hose clamp, one was the hose going to my fuel pressure regulator, and one was some very shit welding of the IAT sensor done by a certain workshop here which shall remain unnamed. These are all now fixed. Before I found these three, I couldn't even pump 2psi into the thing, it was bleeding off air too quickly. It now takes 10+psi, which is apparently the limit of the plug I made for the intake pipe, the end cap explodes out of the rubber joiner with quite a bang . I might see if I can fix this somehow, either a better clamp or just epoxy the end cap to the joiner, try to get the system to hold 25+psi. Anyway, the intake now holds pressure quite solidly, and given the rate of how quickly it would bleed off pressure before, I have no doubt this would have affected the performance. I will still degree the camshafts this week to cross that off the list as well, then I guess it's back on the dyno to see if there are any changes!

Looks like you want the second one mate, RNR40! I actually think they would both work, but go the RNR40 as RHD Japan specify that for both R34 GT (RB20 gearbox) and the R34 GTT (RB25 gearbox), so that looks like the one you want!

The ID1000's will be fine at that power and give you room for more if you or the next owner decides to chase more power or go E85. The ID's actually give you a fantastic idle, and I get around 550km's to a full tank just cruising around. The DeatchWerks are also a popular choice. With the Power Enterprise,the 650's I used in mine were actually for a WRX. Injectors aren't really engine specific, so long as they are top feed and high impedance, and a similar size to factory; ie. length (mine were 10mm longer) and o-ring size, then they should work.

I suggest borrowing some known working coilpacks, preferably Splitfires or new OEM's if you can.

Just to throw a spanner in the works. My pull-type 25 gearbox has a short-shifter in it from my old RB20 gearbox (from when the car was NA). The RB20 shifter (and R34 gearbox) use a small nylon bush, whereas the R33 push-type 25 box uses a much larger one. Ergo, you need a short shifter for an RB20 gearbox if you are using an R34 gearbox. Good to see a seller knowing what he is on about!

Well if you're planning on installing them yourself and driving it to the tuner, then that won't be possible with anything bigger than factory. If you just want to drop the car and the injectors off at your tuners and let him install them, then you've got a couple of options. Siemens Deka injectors are a direct swap over, very simple. Power Enterprise 650's are also a straight plug in item. However myself and many others on here will recommend ID1000's. They are almost a direct plug in item, but they do require different connectors as they use a square plug rather than the OEM oval plug. This is in fact extremely simple to do, the injectors usually come with the required plugs and all you or your tuner has to do is disconnect the old plugs and install the new ones. Takes half an hour if that.

And are you sure it's pinging not misfiring? If it is actually detonation, I wouldn't be surprised if it was because of the SAFC. They are rubbish things, you can't adjust timing at all with them. Otherwise a dying fuel pump might explain both issues. However I've got my money on an ignition breakdown, given you haven't mentioned coilpacks at all? Are they still factory items?

Gonna need to give us more than that mate, playing e-mechanic is difficult at the best of times. Mods, engine, how long it's been doing it, any recent changes you've made?

Posting here so I can find this thread again. Looks promising!

Bah, rattle guns are for the birds! 1" drive all day everyday.

Air compressor?

Because they would have used a mold. Most spoilers are made that way, needs to be done in two pieces to keep the positive draft angle so the part can be removed from the mold. Otherwise you just seal the mold inside the part and that's no good to anyone. It surprises me that they use screws to hold it together though, it would be just as effective to create a part with a large flange surface and lock the part together that way, then remove the flanges. Suppose when doing massive quantities like that it would take too long, easier to just screw them all together.

Yes that's true, though I thought it's likely to be that the bumper is a cheap copy not a genuine item. ANYWAY, didn't mean to steal the attention from your car Anthony, I'm looking forward to seeing that engine in it's spot! What needs to be done before it goes in?

Nice! Possibly the easiest job to do on a Skyline haha.

Are you sure it has GTR fenders? They look like GTT to me, but then the front bar matches up quite well. So either the front bar has been modified, or they are GTR fenders like you say and my eyes aren't quite as keen as they should be Even the bonnet looks like it has been chopped rather than a factory GTR one, but that could just be an issue with the catch that throws the fitment out.

Is what you like about that green GTR the fact that it's clearly a GTT with a GTR badge? Engine looks fantastic man!

You. You ship my turbo to Stao and then back to me. Overnight. For free. Then I'll do it

The cam specs card that came with the cams. Tomei tell you what the settings SHOULD be, and in a perfect world they would be spot on every time. But every motor is different, and Type-B cams have been known to be out on occasion. Couple that with having my head decked potentially altering the deck height, I need to make sure the cams are in the right spot.

Yep, I've got a HKS exhaust gear. I would definitely send the turbo back if I was over east, but being so far away makes it too hard. It takes over a week just to get there, then a couple of days to modify, then another week to come back. So the car would be off the road for probably 3 weeks as compared to a couple of days. Unless I'm willing to pay over $200 for overnight delivery there and back, which I'm not.

Did you buy the degree wheel? I was just going to print off one of the downloadable templates and stick it on a piece of ally. Piston stop should be easy, I've got a set of my old spark plugs here so I should be set for that. Are the intake gears adjustable from factory? I thought they needed to be modified to make them adjustable?