Hanaldo

I'll do it myself. Not hard. Just didn't have the tools to do it, but seeing Stao's results has motivated me to get a move on again with mine, so I've just bought all the tools I need. Will make a piston stop next week. I'll be surprised if mine is out though. How did you move tour intake gear? Planning on respraying my front bar and right front guard, so it will give me something to do to spare myself from the monotony of prepping and spraying

Yes no doubt it needs a tune to boost. I'm just talking general driveability, like when I installed the cams the car would be stall on decel because the change in efficiency upset the map based tune. I just want to know whether my steering and brakes are likely to fail when approaching an intersection again, cos they is something I'd rather avoid repeating

I am not expecting it to be out my much if at all, maybe 2 degrees. But gonna do it anyway to cross it off the list. I've got the wideband hooked up so I can keep an eye on mixtures, and if it is out at all then I certainly won't be boosting anywhere until I get a tune. I just wanted to make sure I can drive it to the tuners once it's all setup.

Just a quick off topic question, didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for. I'm going to degree my cams next week sometime just to cross cam timing off the list once and for all, but just want to check if my car will still be driveable on the current tune after any changes? I know MAP sensors are sensitive to changes in the efficiency of the motor, will adjusting cam timing make it unhappy or should it be ok?

I would modify the lid mate. Epoxy resin would easily handle the fuel if that's what you are worried about, once the stuff is set there is no dissolving it. You just need to make sure the area stays clear of fuel until the resin has cured.

Have you spoken to Andy about it?

Congrats Stao, great result!

Ah sorry, thought you had it tuned at ASG. To be honest I'm not sure if a vacuum leak would cause your issues, but if you know it has one then I would get that sorted, otherwise it will always be a question mark.

Yeh it's an odd one. Mine was intermittent, sometimes it was perfect, other times the ECU pulled fuel/timing randomly. Made it a real pig to tune apparently. I doubt it will be an issue with too much boost. If Sean has tuned your car like he tuned mine, then he will have moved the TP cut to the uppermost limit of the map, so you will never hit it. Are you 100% sure it's not a vacuum leak or something similar? Doesn't really sound like it, but have you checked?

Definitely happens before 300rwkw. Those are the issues that forced me to be switch to the Link. But they aren't really noticeable like how Neil has described his issues. The only thing I noticed was an intermittent misfire in high revs when the ecu pulled timing. There was no cut or massive loss of power.

You said you had hooked it up? If it's not connected then it's not the problem, it won't be doing anything .

But how does it actually perform the cut? I'm quite sure the stock ECU doesn't shut the throttle, so it's either fuel or ignition. Fairly sure it uses the same TP cut method as it does for AFM voltage, it's just triggered by the boost sensor in addition to the AFM.

Pretty sure the standard ECU doesn't have a boost cut. It's a TP cut. So yes, the sensor reads over 12psi and tells the ECU, but the ECU doesn't cut boost, it cuts the injectors to prevent overboosting. Could also be an ignition cut, but my understanding is the standard ECU uses TP cut to prevent overboosting. But to answer the OP's question, while the cut is a boost cut, it doesn't affect your AFR's in a harmful way. It cuts fuel altogether so your engine doesn't fire, it doesn't lean things out and cause damage. That said, it's still not a good idea to hit it. You should try to bypass the sensor so that the ECU thinks it is still working, but it doesn't actually do anything. Can wire in a resistor to do this so that the sensor always reads a certain voltage.

PM him? Might actually be better to email him though, I understand he doesn't get on the forums too often these days: Brad@profabrication.com.au

Haven't been able to put my foot down yet, the roads are abound with liquid horsepower...

I'd be looking for boost leaks mate. Boost leaks aren't the same as vacuum leaks, if you have a split in a hose somewhere that seals itself under vacuum but leaks air at 15psi then that explains your problem.

Wait what? What do you mean? The car doesn't 'know' that it needs to fold it's mirrors, there is a button next to the power window buttons that you press to fold the mirrors in.

Pro Fab.

Ah pity, I had some tools there you could have borrowed! Was that you that parked in front of me and my mates near the scrutineering shed? I was in the white 34, mates had the maroon 32 and the white Type-R? Again though, 112mph with 366rwhp... It's a shame you only got one run in. How'd you go at Racewars?

Did Hattori ever post his results from the drags last week? I can't remember seeing them...

Right, not getting too excited just yet as it may be nothing, but I MAY have found a problem that could have been holding me back. I decided to raise the suspension back up to a driveable height today, and had to take the front bar off to get my jack under. While it wasoff, I noticed the 90 degree silicon joiner on my cold side cooler piping was being crushed against the body where it went through the hole to almost half its diameter Not sure how it happened as no matter what I did it just didn't want to sit elsewhere, so in the end I cut some length off the joiner so that it would sit higher up, as well as using a die grinder to open up the hole a bit more. It is now fine and back to its full dimensions, so should flow a lot better. Also quite lucky that the joiner isn't damaged at all, I imagine it wouldn't have liked being crushed like that. Anyway, I will take the car for a drive tomorrow and see if it makes any difference to performance.

You know that RB cylinder heads are alloy right?

Haha cheers mate. The idea is good, but I don't think I'll call it a good build until I'm into the 11's and at least 120mph! Haha.

Yep!

Yeh I definitely wouldn't use the skeleton door outside the car, the sound gets intense with just the waterproof one on Still, happy with the quality of it! Need to buy a few more adhesive mounts, then I'll be set!