Hanaldo

My guess is about 240-250kph.

I'd say the turbo has a stronger actuator on it if the boost controller is turned down. Means you can't turn the boost any lower. Just get the car tuned.

The blast pipes are a great contrast to the nature in the shot

Dude relax, you seem to be taking this topic so personally. The OP has heard what you've got to say and obviously disagrees, why is that a problem? OP, if you want to lower your car to such an extreme then go for it. Just be aware (as I'm sure you are by now) that what the other guys are saying is correct, it becomes a pain in the ass to drive and lowering the car so much will affect the way the car handles in a negative way. I have got BC's, and I have had my car at a height close to R377's 33 for a couple of years. Not because I don't find it fkn annoying, but because I don't drive the car enough to be assed raising it back up. I've smashed my bumper so many times I've lost count, I'm just lucky that I know how to fibreglass and spray paint. I've also damaged my fenders and tyres from coming off the track and grabbing rubber, that's not so easy/cheap to fix. Every time I park my car, I try to park somewhere where I can turn left, because turning right scrubs my tyre on the inner guard lining. It's horrible and annoying and embarrassing and I hate it. I'll be rectifying it soon. All in all, my advice to you is to not do it. You've got some nice suspension in there, and the car is already at a nice height, it looks good! It wouldn't be worth trading that just for a bit less height. But, if you want to do it then do it. BC's will get you there, and more. They handle well for what they are, but they aint no Tein's.

I like that ^

What's with the rod in the cat? That looks rather detrimental to flow...

Seriously though. OP. I will give you 5 kidney beans my good man.

Actually it is. It's important to understand these things, lest you get yourself in trouble. A verbal contract is just as legally binding as a written one, so long as all parties are above the age of 18. All it needs to be a legally binding contract is: An agreement between one party and another - in this case an offer was obviously made for the car, and that offer was accepted by the OP. This does not need to be written down, as a concluded agreement was implied by each parties actions. Obviously the OP accepted the offer when he posted here that the car was sold, and the potential buyer had considered that offer accepted. Then there needs to be consideration - a return of some form for each party, which must be something of value but does not have to meet the value of the object, only an agreed value between the parties. Had the OP offered to give the car away for nothing in return, that would not constitute a legally binding contract. Had he accepted an offer of 5 kidney beans, that is then an agreed value and would be legally binding. I think the consideration in this case is obvious... Then there needs to be a certainty of terms. However this does not need to be expressly communicated between the parties, it can be implied terms through common law or statute law. For example, an implied term of contract is the duty of both parties to take reasonable measures to cooperate. Then there is the intention of both parties to make the contract legally binding. Again, this does not need to be written, it is implied by the parties actions. The OP has said he was awaiting the deposit, therefore it's pretty clear that he was intending to legally conclude the deal, until he got a better offer and got cold feet. The potential buyers intentions seem pretty obvious, he wanted to buy the car. The last two elements of contractual law are the legal capacities of both the parties (ie, not under the age of 18, and not mentally disabled or ill), as well as the legality of the object in question (ie, you can't make a legally binding contract regarding the sale of illicit drugs or human trafficking, etc.). Consider yourselves educated!

You need ducting. Would really help. Cooling doesn't matter so much about whether air can get to the cooler as it does about whether the air actually goes through the cooler, ie. the path of least resistance. You've got low pressure zones all around your cooler with it mounted like that, so a lot of the air will simply get sucked around the cooler rather than through it. Given you will get some cooling benefit, but if you make up some ducting to guide ALL the air through the cooler then you will see much better results.

HICAS is broken from the factory.

Not so much with the parcel shelf. With the end caps I definitely should have spent more time getting a perfect time finish on the molds, but because the parcel shelf was a male mold, the imperfections didn't really come through the 5 layers of carbon. Where I it did get ruined a little bit is I bought the wrong type of carbon fabric. I needed the standard 2x2 twill weave fabric as the strands are loose and it therefore goes around corners better. I got the locked 2x2 twill so the fibres don't move, very good for flat objects but not so good around curves. You can see on the speaker mounts where the fabric pulled up a little bit. Possibly could have avoided this if I had a vacuum bag big enough for the shelf to fit in, but unfortunately I didn't

The reason I haven't finished the other end cap is because I was full of confidence after making the first one, so got distracted undertaking a more complex object. Now years ago when I first got the car, one of the very first things I did to it was modify the rear parcel shelf to mount some speakers which resulted in this absolute abortion: It was the best I could do with my skills at the time, but I was never happy with the final product and it has always been a part of the car I intended to do again. Cometh the time. With nothing but an idea of what I wanted in my head, I purchased some of these 6" speaker spacers: And a hot glue gun: Attached the spacers to the shelf: To give me my final product. Isn't it beautiful!? Just kidding. Awful huh? Well, not done yet. First I had to make sure the carpeted shelf was completed covered: All sealed up Then to give me my shape, I stretched some fabric over it: Then applied resin: 24 hours later: And this is the finished plug! Time to start making the mold. Began with putting down a few layers of CSM to build up the core: Then finished it off with two layers of the 6oz woven glass cloth: Cured for 24 hours: Now to remove the plug: It's comin! And the finished mold! Plug is a one-time use... Then time to clean up the mold: Then a trial fitment: Fits like a dream! Then, I unfortunately forgot to take photos of the next stage BUT, again being my flashy self, you can probably imagine that a simple lick of paint on the fibreglass was never going to be enough for me. I had to go the whole hog! Again, 100% carbon fibre part. 5 layers of carbon, plus extra layers where I thought the part needed extra strength. Final product is about 2mm thick, very very rigid! This is where the part is now. Just need to wait until tomorrow to trim it all up and give it one final polish, then it's ready to have the speakers fitted and go back into the car! With that almost finished, I've got a few more projects in mind. This is the start of the next one... Any guesses as to what it will be? All this work has been a good experience with wet-laying, but I'm not 100% happy with how the parts are coming out. Wet-laying has inherent problems with air bubbles and a not-so-perfect surface finish in the carbon. I give each layer a blast with a hot air gun which gets rid of a lot of the small air bubbles, and vacuum bagging helps compress the carbon to give the parts strength, but I am currently looking into investing in a full resin infusion setup to produce higher quality parts.

Right! Updates were promised and are long overdue. Have been hard at work these past two weeks though, so hopefully all you bastards consider the wait worth it! So, I have always been pretty hands on with my car, preferring to do work myself rather than pay others to do it for me. Sometimes this means putting a lot of time into learning a new skill, which is what I have been doing since I last posted. On this occasion, I wanted to create a few custom trim parts. I'll let the pictures do the talking and explain as I go. Some of the supplies: 20 meters of chopped strand mat fibreglass: 1kg polyester resin: MEKP catalyst: The all-important release gear: So having never tried my hand a glassing before, this was all a big experiment. As a first effort, I had a go at replicating this end cap from my GTR rear wing: All wrapped up in alfoil to protect the paint: Unfortunately I didn't get any photos of the laying up stage due to limited working time with the resin and things, but this is how it turned out the next day after trimming: And trial fitment: So, I had myself a working mold. Me being my flashy self, I wanted to do the part in 100% carbon fibre. Again I didn't get any photos of the laying up process, but here is the product all wet-laid with epoxy and then vacuum bagged: 24 hours later, I had a cured part: Mold removed, so now 100% carbon fibre. Part was made with roughly 8 layers of carbon, each laid at 45 degrees to the previous layer, so it's a very strong part. Unfortunately the mold didn't want to completely cooperate: All trimmed and cleaned up: Another trial fitment: Final fitment: Then polished up: To give me my final product: With the one side I completed and some valuable lessons learned, I am now in the process of making the end cap for the other side. This time I decided to use 6oz woven fibreglass cloth. Again all laid up and bagged: Have not yet completed the final carbon product for this side yet, so I'll get back to this one.

Interesting... Can you post a photo for us?

Perfect Run is awesome. They use EMS, best postal service I have ever used. Took 3 days fro the time of ordering for my HKS cam gear to arrive. Had a problem where I forgot to change my address before I placed the order, sent them an email and they were very good to deal with, sorted everything out no fuss, no delay.

I put the stands under the suspension arms. The chassis is soft, it will bend.

... That's the head. See this: Those threaded holes along the centre of the head, above the spark plug holes. That's where your coil packs mount. Two screws per coil pack, one on each side.

Jack stand on the chassis, tsk Word of advice with the HICAS light, don't just remove the bulb. If you ever need to get the car inspected, the pits guys know to look for that. All the lights should come on when you switch the key to on, if it doesn't they know you have removed the bulb. Best way to get past it is to wire that bulb into one of the other bulbs, so that it will come on when the key is switched on. Strangely enough they aren't worried about HICAS being deleted, just the fact the light doesn't work. They're an odd breed.

Yep, same as mine Except mine doesn't have the lip DarkChild, what lip is that?

Hey all, I'm after a broken-beyond-repair R34 passenger side headlight. Only thing that needs to be in good condition are the mounting tabs, the rest I don't care about. Would prefer not to pay anything given it's junk, but let me know what you've got and how much you want for it. Cheers, Martin.

Dammit all. Looking at this thread is like looking at the cake selection in a cafe and realising you have forgotten your wallet. Then someone mashes your face into them.

Ahh I see. It's not really critical, the car will run without it and you won't do any damage. But IMO you should fix it if you are still using the NIStune. It caused havoc in mine when I started chasing power and I was running the NIStune, as the stock ECU would pull timing/fuel and it couldn't be controlled via the NIStune. Combined with the TCS being deleted on mine, the stock ECU just wasn't having any of it. Ended up going to the Link ECU because it was such a pain in the ass.

That's the factory map sensor. Neo's use it in addition to the AFM. How come you have it in your car? You haven't mentioned anything about the motor, it looks like a standard RB20. Or are have you just deleted the VCT and using all the RB20 engine covers and intake gear?

I wasn't gonna post in this thread again... But can I quickly nominate that ^ for POTY?

My Neo doesn't have any such bracket? Just threaded holes in the head, two holes for each coilpack. Coilpacks have a little black rubber bracket on each side, but this appears to me to be built into them.