Hanaldo

They bolt directly to the head, not the block or any other mount. Like so: The Neo NA turbo/NA coilpacks are exactly the same.

Yesterday, was a few cars in front of a white R34 GTR along Gnangara Rd before they turned off onto Pinaster towards Ellenbrook. So much presence, beautiful car.

Skyline nut that thinks the factory Brembo's are 6-pot, good stuff

Ah, fair enough then.

Unblock the PCV and plumb it into the intake, the system works better like that. You would be better off ditching that empty can to, even with steel wool they don't do a lot. I had one in my car for a good 2 years and there was never a drop in it, not even condensation. My new properly baffled catch can picks up a fair bit of condensation.

Ignition timing is fine, it's the cam timing that may be out. Inlet temps are normal up to 16psi, then start getting hot with more boost, from memory AT was 21 degrees and IT's were around 41 degrees with 18psi. Intercooler has been tested to have around 1psi pressure drop across the core. Exhaust has been dropped after the front pipe with no gain. Intake piping is possibly restrictive, 3" intake pipe and 2.5" cooler piping with numerous 90 degree bends, but everybody seems to agree that it should work fine and wouldn't be costing me a lot of power. Have checked for boost leaks a number of times using the whole compressed air method, nothing. Cam timing is the most likely cause, just haven't got the funds to get the cams dialled in at the moment.

I just used a p-clamp and some flat bar. Just gotta make sure that wherever you put it, the lines have enough maneuverability to move with the caliper and hub as you turn the wheel.

I don't have any experience with R35's obviously, but I do have HEL braided lines on my R34 and I can say they were the same. Rubber mounts on the back lines, but nothing on the longer front ones. Just had to make up my own mounts for them, was easy enough.

Well I could, but it made the same power at 16psi as it did at 22psi. Restriction somewhere or cam timing is out. But at 16psi the car runs fine, the dyno chart even outperformed Stao's results up to 16psi.

Awesome. Love a good bit of fabrication. Following.

5000k HID isn't going to be yellow at all. If anything it will be a bit blue. 4000k is white, anything above starts going blue, then 10k starts going purple. 6000k is my preference for light output vs aesthetics.

Probably follow that up with an explanation? I've had mixed experiences with Garage 101. Danny last tuned my car and he was great, working on it until 10pm to get it finished and then texting me to let me know how it went. Wrote a list of things he thought could be holding me back, decent price, and the car hasn't missed a beat since the tune. So I would definitely recommend using Danny as a tuner. BUT, a mate of mine just had his EP3 Type-R in there for some mechanical work; including fitting a flex-joint in the exhaust, a high-flow cat, and a cold air intake. They charged him $300 to look at the exhaust and say the flex joint and cat could not be fitted, and $600 to make a 'cold-air intake' that was just a 90 degree stainless steel pipe which positioned the pod in the hottest part of the engine bay. When he picked the car up they then had the gall to tell him that his car would benefit from having a cold-air intake made up... Oh, and all this took 3 weeks.

Not just cheaper. Better. There's a load more hassles than just converting it, even when you're done it will give you headaches for the rest of your ownership. Just sell it, get a GTT.

Mine didn't really have problems as such, it just didn't make the expected power because I couldn't wind more boost in. At 16psi my car runs perfectly, there are no problems. Made 350rwhp, but my trap speed of 108mph doesn't reflect that.

I think what's happening is we are making the power but have a lot of lag between gears. On a dyno you're loading it up in 4th,so you don't see the difference between gears, but at the strip it makes a huge difference.

Just head to Rudd Industries mate, give them the bolt and tell them how much shorter you need. Also just specify you need a high tensile bolt, but they generally only give you high tensile stuff anyway. If they can't sort you out, just pick up some nuts for the stock bolts, cut them to size and then wind the nuts on to clean up the ends.

Not without dropping the box and having a look unfortunately, no way to tell with the box attached to the motor.

Yeh they can do, like any bearing really. If it goes then it won't do any extra damage to other parts, you just won't be able to get into gear so you might get stuck. Both my RB boxes had a bit of noise, it's very common. I just pay attention to whether it is getting any louder, some get worse very quickly while others take years. If my clutch wasn't a pull type then I'd pull it off and replace the bearing, but it's too much of a pain in the ass

Lulz. My Exedy Ceramic Race clutch must be a twin plate then... OP, it's more likely to be your throw-out bearing. Twin plates rattle when you depress the clutch pedal, not when you take your foot off the pedal. My money is on your throw-out bearing being slightly worn.

In my opinion, fluro rims can only be pulled off by an all out time attack/drift spec car. And I'm talking like a sponsored, proper track car. It needs that real track-only look to command the respect that you lose by running fluro wheels. Put them on a street car and you're just a dude that likes bright colours and cheap cars. OT, build is looking good mate, will follow!

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at? Yes it's all the same battery, but the battery will have the potential to deliver up to 1000 amps. It all depends on what is being drawn, audio systems just don't draw very much current (unless they are competition setups, in which case you will never see them using 8a wire either).

Audio is vastly different to the battery though. For example, a 1000w amplifer should only draw around 15 amps. A 6-cylinder engine (especially a high compression engine like an RB) is going to be drawing around 200 amps, max of 400 if it spikes. 8 gauge wire is rated at 52 amps. No where near enough. Then keep in mind that the starter motor is going to draw even more current in winter when the engine is cold, and when the battery is flat... 2ga wire is rated at 208 amps, so should be the bare minimum you use to run your battery in the boot.

I think his question was directed at the other guy...

Yep, the oil drain is a pain in the ass. I ended up cutting mine, then using the off-cut piece as a hard pipe in between two small pieces of soft oil control hose. Dodgy. Went braided when I had the head off the car.

Looking classy bud!