Hanaldo

Just make a manometer Will cost maybe $10 to make and will be far more accurate than any boost gauge you buy.

Eh. I've seen cars do straight back to back runs in dyno competitions with more than 50 hp difference between them. Loads of variables. The important thing is how the car drives, and by the sounds of it Scott is pretty happy with that, so I'd say it's a good result Also keen to see a graph though Scott! Any plans to switch to ethanol or WMI?

My mistake

Oh wow, amazing job dude. Looking at your previous post I thought the inside was going to be butchered, but that little stitch up job looks awesome! How much further over is the shifter, will that make it any harder to drive?

From memory one should be for the TPS, and I believe one for the traction control system. In mine the other one wasn't connected to anything, but I think that was probably because my engine is a transplant, so not sure there.

Some are, some aren't, depends what you get. My Plazmaman one for example works perfectly with the stock tps.

Except he behaves on the street, don't ya Mat?

Eh, not driving the car in this heat. New seats haven't arrived yet either, so I can't drive it at the moment anyway. I'll get it done sometime And Stao, they are, but I did mine at the same time as removing the head. Head was decked when I had it reconditioned, so I lost some deck height. Wouldn't have thought it enough to throw off my cam timing, but it's a question mark so need to check timing and make sure.

I've got poncams in mine, power and response are currently pretty much on par with your results with the G3, though I suspect I have cam timing issues holding me back so can't really draw any conclusions on the cams yet. They certainly feel ALOT better than the stock ones did, but given I changed plenum, ecu, cams AND tuner all at the same time; I guess that doesn't count.

With that much power, the thing can look like a hat full of assholes for all I care. Want to drive.

Give KYP a call, they did the GTT conversion into my GT including the diff, my stuff all works fine.

Haha, my $600 install and tune of my Link G4 came back to $1650... Miiiiiiiiiiiight have required the lower intake manifold to be changed at the same time though

Are still around. Just to clarify haha.

Don't be surprised if it comes back a couple of hundred more than they quoted you though.

Steady on, cleaning your engine bay is hardly 'wanky'. Nothing worse than looking under the bonnet of a car and seeing everything covered in 15-20 years worth of dirt and smog. You just have to be careful when you clean your engine bay, don't just go at it with a garden hose and some degreaser like it's a 5 minute job. I spent 16 hours over a few weeks cleaning mine with a toothbrush and a tin of petrol. Of course I took it to a whole other level, but it's rewarding. An hour on top of the motor with a rag and some degreaser is all it would take to get your bay looking respectable.

Haha nah you're right mate, I can have a laugh at my expense OT, I don't have anything useful to input, but I've been following the thread with interest. Keen to see how you go Scott!

That's not too silly a question, I've still got 90% of my stock parts. Worth asking really. Have only had two cars, my first Vectra and the Skyline. When I sold the Vectra, I had this guy get a mechanic to come and inspect the car which was fair enough. Got a call from the guy a few days later saying the mechanic had told him the car was really well looked after, but the brand new tyres I had just put on it were the wrong speed rating, hence I should drop my price from $6500 to $5000? First of all, the tyres had a 'V' rating. This is a 4-cylinder Vectra. Please tell me why a Vectra needs tyres with a speed rating higher than 240km/h? Secondly, these tyres cost me $120 each. You don't want em for whatever stupid reason, then you go ahead and replace them; why would I drop the price $1500 for tyres!?

Agree. Want

Oh

Contact gslrallysport on here and ask him about his Remsa pads. DBA 4000 series rotors or RDA rotors are both very good. The clutch you will have to see, some people love em lots of people hate em.

I always get my oil up to full operating temperature (~80°) before it sees any boost or high revs at all.

I wouldn't bother with an EBC on an internally gated turbo. When I had my old Hypergear, the ebc was essentially just there to increase my street cred and make noises, it didn't really do anything other than that. External gate is a very different story, but with an internal gate just get the actuator as close to the boost level that you want to run and run it. You sound like you're about set, but also budget for a service before you get a tune. Always do oil/filter change when installing a turbo, fuel filter when installing new injectors, and spark plugs wouldn't be a bad idea either (making sure they are the correct gap etc). As well as anything else that looks like it might need replacing, belts etc. Speaking of injectors, I personally always get injectors flow tested before installation whether brand new or second hand. A mate of mine didn't think it necessary and ended up hydrolocking his motor from one of the Nismo 550's spraying like a fire hydrant. Up to you, but it's cheap piece of mind.

Much of a muchness, Cooling Pro is Chinese. That said, I would still go through Just Jap or someone like that rather than eBay, customer support is usually better if you do run into problems.

+1 for checking out Hypergear. And for scrapping the fuel regulator, stock is fine. If anything maybe go for some bigger injectors in case you increase your power goal in the future. Also, ditch that HKS pod filter. The filter element in them is rubbish. Would run a $20 pod from Supercrap before I used a HKS filter. With the turbo, the 3076's with Nissan 6-bolt housings have pretty average results from what I've seen, so if you do end up going for the Garrett then I'd advise comparing the results of the bolt-on kits vs the 4-bolt rear housings. Which would require a new dump pipe if you went down that route.

I'm ok with this. Now what?