Hanaldo

Very nice ^ Lovin the ride height The first one is a great shot as well. Only thing I would change is the wheel fitment, not quite aggressive enough. But that's just me May I ask what the front lip is? Looks similar to the DIY garage liner stuff, but thicker?

Just quietly, these turbos are a HELL of a lot easier to get on and off if you spend a bit of extra cash and make up some braided water lines for them. I can get mine off in well under an hour these days, without the helping hands from mates. I spent about $60-$70 on the Speedflow fittings and braided line that I needed and put them together myself (anyone installing a turbo can put together braided line). Food for thought.

Legend, thanks mate! Any comment on the quality of the seat?

Too many nice parts in one thread! Will be following...

Except this is in the WA section

You know you can get stickered more than once yeh?

This has been done to death. In the end you're going to get LOADS of mixed responses because everyone is going to recommend what they have experience with (flying the Link flag myself) and you're not going to be any closer to an answer. Best way is to just call up your tuner, see if he has a problem tuning any of the ones you are thinking of getting (mine couldn't care less), then do your reading on each one and see which one appeals to you the most. I ended up going with the Link because it ticked all the boxes I wanted and I could get it cheaper than a Vipec even though they are essentially the same thing (some will claim they are exactly the same thing, just different labels).

I used either fuel hose or braided line for all of my stuff.

How on Earth does boost pressure have anything to do with the transmission?

Two threads for you to check out mate, the RB25 Turbo Upgrade thread and the Hypergear thread. Both will tell you everything you need to know. Costs depend on what parts you end up going for, best to do a bit of reading first and then set yourself a budget.

Well it's probably much fresher than yours man!

Wut? Wut? And wut?

I'll say it, I'm not diggin the red. But this would be a boring thread if we all had the same taste, so thanks for sharing!

Had the same problem with my Plazmaman plenum, despite Plazmaman's assurances that the stock throttle cable would fit fine. Fixed it using this: That's the adjuster from the gyro cable of a BMX, will cost you maybe $5 from your local bicycle store. Simply trim it to suit the size you need, then use it to clamp the accelerator end of the throttle cable like so: Obviously not as good as getting a custom throttle cable made up or using one off another model car that fits, but probably the best 'quick and easy' fix. If you do it properly, there's no chance of the cable coming loose or anything like that.

Getting very serious now mate, I think it's probably fair to say our builds are no longer very similar Seriously, lookin farkin amazing!

Why query it? Plenty of cars still running on ethanol here, it's not like it's hard to buy it by the barrel, it's just expensive. I think you will find this also explains Wedge's question; ie. because ethanol is so expensive to run here, ~E40 is a common blend because often you won't make a hell of a lot more power with E70 or E85 so why use the extra ethanol? OP, do you know if the ECU has a flex-fuel setup or just a straight E42 tune? If it is only tuned on E42 and not with an ethanol content sensor, then it will definitely need a retune to run straight petrol. If it has a flex-fuel setup then 98 will be fine

Had new semi's fitted with the intention of hitting the strip, but my drivers seat broke so I didn't get down there before I left for Europe. Will be getting some new seats when I get home in January and then I'll go get a trap speed

No, my boost line was rock solid. But I'm running a Profec II and external gate.

Very very close result to mine in the end Luke... Couple of differences between our setups, but interesting how similar in power they are.

Got mine from Bunnings, has been rock solid for 3 years now. I've got 55W 12000k HID's as well, so if they don't melt it then nothing will!

^

R33 gaskets fit R34's fine, I used them on mine.

Read the post 4 above yours.

Yeh I'm not, I got the bung in the stock position welded up and had a new one welded on just before the cat. Mine is already dead though, only lasted maybe 1000-2000km's. Not sure if having it in the stock position for the first 300 or so km's had anything to do with it, but it reads way out.

Why replace the bov's? They are the same across all models? If yours aren't in good condition then sure, but if they work then why bother? Just clean them up and put em back on?