Hanaldo

Hey guys, Sorry to post a new thread as I've already posted this in the wanted to borrow thread, but this is urgent and I'm aware some people probably won't look in the other thread. So basically my car is booked in for a tune on the 24th of Sept, but I have lost the valve seat from my Turbosmart Compgate 40 and no dealers in Perth will have any in stock for 2-3 weeks. Obviously without this I won't be making any boost, so the tune is pointless and I will miss out on Powercruise. If anyone has one I could borrow so I can get my car tuned, I will be your best friend!! Either PM me or send a text on 0431047984. Cheers guys! Martin.

Yehhh they won't, they want the money themselves which is understandable. Just had a real good look around the shed and it's no where to be found, so now the quest begins to find one I can borrow this week!

Hey guys, This is pretty urgent. My car is booked in for a tune on the 24th of Sept, but I have lost the valve seat from my Turbosmart Compgate 40 and no dealers in Perth will have any in stock for 2-3 weeks. Obviously without this I won't be making any boost, so the tune is pointless and I will miss out on Powercruise. If anyone has one I could borrow so I can get my car tuned, I will be your best friend!! Either PM me or send a text on 0431047984. Cheers guys! Martin.

Well they look quite similar in shape: But I doubt a 44mm gate will fit onto a 40mm v-band? My setup is also relatively tight, so I doubt a 44mm gate setup will fit. Also might not be a good idea to get the tune done using a 44mm when I plan on using a 40mm, not sure how much it would affect flow and efficiency, but possibly a fair bit. Thanks though mate!

Would be interesting to see tests vs something like the NZ Hybrid Performance manifolds... If I were going cheap, I'd probably go with Hybrid to be honest. Purely because of his thread on here, it's good to see a business willing to take criticism on board as well as posting developments. That said, when I get a high mount manifold, I won't be going cheap. The poor man pays twice.

Yeh we only have 4 dealers near me, none of them keep any in stock. All say they would have to order them from Adelaide, Adelaide say they would have to order them from head office in NSW, NSW say it will take 2-3 weeks I'm going to have a REAL good tidy up and look around the work space tomorrow, the thing was on when the car went in so it has to be there somewhere. I can't imagine any of us would have thrown out something like that, it's obviously a part of something. Might have fallen under a work bench somewhere, etc. If I can't find it this weekend, I'll see if anyone can lend me one. Crans, I appreciate the offer all the same mate, thanks!

Yes, well the good news is I don't have to replace my wastegate. The bad news is, just over a week until my tune, I've lost this valve seat... And no one can get one in for 2-3 weeks

Yes, I shall let you know. So far so good, I just spoke to Danny and booked it in for the 25th (same day as my knee surgery, of course lol). He is the first tuner I have ever spoken to that asked me in detail about my setup; turbo, headgasket, head studs, ECU, internals, cams, km's, etc. etc. Even asked about the issues I had been having with it before. Spend a good 10 minutes on the phone with him. Every other tuner I've spoken to is just "yep, it's an R34? Bring it in on this date, bye". Looking forward to it! Fingers crossed my having surgery on the same day doesn't complicate things

Scratch that, I'm just missing the valve seat Ahh the relief.

Ahhh true, I just had a look at the Turbosmart product info, and yes I'm missing the valve seat! I don't even remember it at all... Now I wonder where that could have got too That's a relief though, thanks Scotty!

Well if it's the same as a genuine HKS rail, it's -6 AN. But being generic, it may be different.

Right, so following advice in my thread in the Forced Induction section, I've decided the stalling issue is most likely the new cams upsetting the tune. So I will give Garage 101 a call tomorrow to see if they can fit me in before Powercruise. In the mean time, I have this issue to sort out: It would appear the valve stem has been bent, as when I removed the top half and manually open/shut the diaphragm, it feels like it runs out of length. But just before the bottom point, you can feel it drag ever so slightly, so I'm 99% sure it has been bent. I suspect it happened on start up the other day, there was a very loud backfire. A big patch of soot on the floor directly under the screamer made it evident it backfired out the wastegate. I didn't think anything of it at the time, but now I'm wondering whether it caused this. And what caused it

No not at all, it was perfect. But it's had some pretty major work done since it's been driving, and it's the first time I've removed/reinstalled a cylinder head. With the car running on MAP, I wasn't sure what I should be looking for; didn't want to take it to my tuner with potential leaks or other problems all over the place. Problems like this: Anyone else seen a bent valve on a Turbosmart wastegate before, or know whether replacement parts can be had? I'm confused about how it happened, but I have a suspicion. The car backfired on start-up the other day, found a massive patch of soot directly under the screamer pipe afterwards, so it's clearly backfired through the wastegate. No idea why, or if it would cause this damage.

Well I guess cams would have changed the efficiency of the motor, which MAP is sensitive to?

Unfortunately with the Plazmaman, adjusting the idle screw on the IAC is impossible. But I guess if it's quite possible it's an issue with the tune being out then I'll sort out the wastegate and just get it to the tuners.

It doesn't activate in neutral.

Thread brings the lulz.

Did check that, nothing changes whether the gate is plumbed up or not.

Yeh, that's what I'm worried about. If it's an issue with the tune then that's fine, I can get it to the tuners and they can do their thing. But I'm HIGHLY reluctant to give my car to the tuner when it's got issues, lest they then be stuck trying to sort out my shit

Hey all, Sorry to start another one of these threads, but I've done a search and didn't find anything that quite matches my symptoms, so I was hoping someone here may be able to point me in the right direction. To cut to the chase, here is what my engine is doing: http://youtu.be/-g0nValrfZY Basically it struggles to return to idle after a quick blip of the throttle, and under higher load (longer rev or while driving) it stalls as soon as it comes off throttle. Now normally I would say this is pretty symptomatic of a vacuum leak, however my car is running on a MAP sensor. I really don't have any experience with how an engine functions on MAP sensors, but I was under the impression that air leaks would not cause the car to stall, is that correct? Is this more likely to be something like the IAC valve? If I turn the air con on and give it a quick blip, the engine will stall; so that leads me to believe it is the IAC? A bit more of a background, I have JUST finished putting the engine back together following a full cylinder head recondition. The only things that have changed since I last drove the car are Tomei Type-B poncams (possible timing issue??), valve springs/retainers, and bronze valve guides. I have checked for air leaks, but everything seems tight and as previously mentioned, the car is on MAP. My external wastegate is also a leak at the moment as it seems to be stuck permanently open, but I didn't think this would cause the stalling issues? Thanks for any help, Martin.

It's all operating as it should when its off, but when I bolt it on its always open And yes, pressure source is the same.

Ugh, good question. Was going to book it in today, but turns out it's running like a pig. The external wastegate is permanently open, no idea why. Tried bleeding the abs again today but still not working. Tried to take it for a drive on the street to get the abs working, but the fkn thing stalls on decel. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-g0nValrfZY&feature=youtube_gdata_player It's like it's got an air leak, but it's MAP... I am in way over my head now, I'm used to AFM's, I don't know how a car works on MAP sensors. So over this now it's not funny, I just want to drive it

Wait, which part failed?? The hard line on the IAC itself, or did you use hard line running into the IAC?

Is the car driving? Easiest way is to unplug the VCT solenoid, which is this little guy on the front of your intake manifold with the redish-brown coloured plug: Then take it for a drive and see if it feels any different. Another way, which will work if the car isn't driving, is to download a program called Nissan Data Scan and buy a CONSULT cable, then you can switch off the VCT that way.