Hanaldo

Ohhhhhhhh how I envy your hot side Looking tops mate!

Don't do this. It might stop the water from boiling but you don't want to get up to standard boiling temperature anyway, you're exponentially increasing the cavitation of your cooling galleries. If your water is getting close to standard boiling temperature then stop driving, don't just raise the boiling point.

This is me

But that wouldn't explain why it only does it with the engine running.

In which case I assume the ABS unit should be bled last?

Can I ask why a bleeder is necessary? I have never used them on my car, even when I had one. Crank the heater on full and disconnect the top heater hose, best method I've ever used. Unless it's a completely stripped track car with no heater system?

Yes, no luck. It just stays spongy. I think I'll give it a go just bleeding it as Mick has done, worst case it just doesn't work. Mick, did you bleed the lines from the BMC in any specific order? I'm not sure how the ABS module looks internally, so not sure whether it's better to bleed one line before another or all at the same time, etc. etc?

Right, just going to bump this thread as I'm currently experiencing the same issue. I have bled my brakes twice and have got clear fluid coming out at all four corners with no air bubbles. Peddal is solid when the engine is off, but as soon as you fire up the engine the pedal goes to the floor. Mick_o mentioned he had the same issue when he fitted Alcon calipers to his car, and it turned out to be the ABS unit needing to be bled. This makes sense in my case, as I had to remove the brake lines from the BMC when I was removing my head, so air would have got into the lines before the ABS unit. Now what I want to know, is can I bleed the ABS module without the service tool to cycle it? Mick said he bled his in the same way as normal, by cracking the lines off and pumping until no air came out. But his is an R33, are R34's the same? Another method I have heard is to take the car for a drive and keep hitting the brakes hard to activate the ABS, then re-bleed everything? I'm not too keen on that method for obvious safety reasons. Any other ideas? Also, is it necessary to follow the 'procedure' for bleeding brakes? Ie. RR, RL, FR, FL? I did mine the opposite way, RL, RR, FR, FL; will that not work properly?

Starting problems are always going to be fuel or spark related. Given the circumstances, it's pretty safe to assume it's going to be spark. So you shouldn't have to adjust the IAC or anything else. Start by checking your spark, see if it's good or weak or just not there at all. My money is on the crank angle sensor.

I'm also pretty positive that will be it, as we had to remove the brake lines from the master cylinder to clear the plenum when we were taking the head off... So there would be air in the ABS module for sure. Did it work just cracking the lines, from what I have read you need a special service tool to bleed the ABS unit??

Thought I should follow this up

Ditched them. I've never used either of them anyway.

Ah true, yes it does... I'll give that a go then, cheers! And thanks haha, makes the effort and money put in to it worth while!

Yes, that is what we did. Spat fuel everywhere when I first primed the fuel pump, had to take the end fittings back out and put a little thread sealant on them. But then started first turn first time, no bad noises, everything ok Spot on about the cams! Fark me they sound amazing! I was expecting maybe a little change to the note, but it's completely different! Here's a video of first start up which unfortunately doesn't do them justice: That was yesterday. Then this morning, feeling energized by having started the car, I decided I was going to just force the fitting onto the hose and bind it up if necessary, just for the mean time so I could get the thing home. BUT, when I went to put the hose end together, it squared itself up and went together easily! I took it apart again to double check, and indeed it hasn't cross-threaded at all! So with that all good, I managed to finish the thing up! A pity about the Speedflow fitting and push on hose, sort of clutters things up a bit. But here it is, all back together and running! (Warped) front bar back on: Here is another video of the car idling while we were bleeding the cooling system. Funny little moment at the end So basically, the car is done. I would have driven it home today, except the brakes wouldn't bleed properly Had clear fluid to all 4 corners with no air coming out, and the pedal feels firm and as it should when the engine is off. But start the engine up and the pedal goes to the floor. So I'm thinking there is possibly a leak or a problem with the brake booster line. Trust my car to have issues with the brakes after all the work we did to the engine lol. Anyway I ran out of time today, but will hopefully head back up to my mates tomorrow after work to sort it out, then I'll drive it home.

Can't answer your question about the IAC, but the water hoses are easy mate, you simply re-route them. Tee the ones that go to the stock throttle body into one of the ones going to the IAC valve if you keep it. If you delete the IAC, I imagine you could simply block the water lines off, they are then unnecessary. The Plazmaman bolts down in the same way as the stock one. You can see the stud pattern here, the three outer ones are bolts whereas the 6 inner ones are studs. You need to drill out the two end holes on the lower manifold to 8.5mm, then that's it.

Ahh frustrating day. After another late night last night, this is where I got: First, replaced the turbo studs with more of the same from MTQ, fingers crossed they don't warp again but I don't have much faith :thumbsdown: Then bolted the turbo back up: From here I just kept on going with the hot side until it was all back together: Then this morning, we put the new auxiliary belts on: Fit in the catch can before doing up the intake side of things, decided I'm going to get the washer bottle modified so I'm not crushing the headlight wiring, cos it's tight in there: Then it was pretty much a case of putting everything back together, which wasn't too difficult. So we bolted down the plenum and connected up all the vacuum lines and IAC lines and everything, took about an hour or so. So with the car ALMOST ready to start, all I needed to do was make up the hoses for the catch can... I made up the first one no problem, looking great. Then this happened: Anyone who has put together braided hose before will know how easy it is to thread, but TWO threads. Two threads is all that is stopping this: Looking like this: And firing up, probably for another week or so. So god damn frustrated. Just want to drive the f**king thing. So anyway, not a lot I can do now, the car is done except for that hose. Will pick up a fitting during the week when I can, so it will start next week.

Very hot, I love it.

Spotted a white R34 GTR with Jun-style high wing stands and an absolutely mental noise on decel was on GEH near Maccas in Midland yesterday at about 2:15pm. Love.

You mean you haven't even pulled them yet!? You're worse than me!

Less excuses more commitment, Ron

I'd even start by just checking your cat. Someone saying "it sounds hollow" isn't reason enough for me to go splashing cash that I might not need to. Unbolt it and have a look at the substrate, see if it's still ok. If not then it's time for a new one; can get a VENOM 100 cell cat for $160 plus bout $50 to have flanges welded on. But that might be a bit overkill for an NA car.

Ah good stuff, thanks mate!

Hey guys, I was just hoping someone might be able to confirm what model brake calipers are on my car from this picture: NOTE: I ground the NISSAN logo off the sides. When I bought the car I was told they were R33 GTST calipers, but they clearly aren't. I'm quite sure they are R32 GTST calipers or Z32 calipers, are they exactly the same? Just trying to identify them so I can be confident buying new brake pads for them. Cheers, Martin.

I think the comments regarding the quality of Earls products are a little unfounded; they are definitely a top quality product that are used by many serious racing teams world wide - just ask Risking on here, he has set up a number of serious time attack cars with Earls products. Not saying there is or isn't an issue with their oil coolers, there might well be. But saying Earls is a rubbish brand is like saying Borg Warner are a rubbish brand because they had manufacturing issues with their EFR range.

Ah, didn't even see that one