Hanaldo

Commentator was loving it Awesome stuff Jez!

Oil makes heater hose swell.

RB30's love the 91. This guy isn't La Bomba. La Bomba was good at what he did. This kid is fkn retarded. Yehhhh, talkin to you 'Jake'. I don't like you. Gonna rant at me now?

Them's the goods, lookin forward to your results!

Sooner is better for me, would really like to have these by Powercruise on the 4th of October. Obviously happy to go with what everyone else decides, just voicing my opinion

Well the engine is an air leak itself, which is why I said you will struggle to make it hold a lot of pressure. But you should still be able to find where it is coming from. If you don't find anything with it going through the intake, try the method urtwhistle used, might help.

Nah man, didn't end up needing it. I've used it a few times before though, it's very handy. You shouldn't need a regulator as the compressor should have one, just keep an eye on the gauge to make sure

Serious commitment issues lol. Ron, why don't you buy one of each, do a few back to backs and settle this debate once and for all? Then you'll definitely get the best option. OR, bolt them all on at the same time and live life in the fast lane!

Easy and cheap way man. What size is your intake pipe, 3"? Assuming it is; buy a 3" straight joiner, a 3" cap that fits snugly inside the joiner (I bought mine from Bunnings), and head to your local bicycle store and buy a valve stem for a tyre. Then what I did is used a soldering iron (if it's not an old one, make sure you clean it up afterwards) to melt a hole in the plastic cap and pushed the valve stem into it. Remove your AFM from your intake pipe and clamp your newly made device on in it's place. Then if you don't have a compressor you can buy one of those $11 portable ones from Supacheap, attach that to the valve stem and pump away listening/feeling for leaks. Make sure you're not pumping 250psi through it, but it should struggle to make even 2psi. That whole setup cost me about $20, but I already had a compressor. Hasn't failed me yet

First of all I have no idea what this has to do with Drivetrain or Transmission. Secondly, what power are you making? Rough rule of thumb = 3" for 300kw, 4" for 400kw.

You'll need to bleed the coolant, no problems with the oil.

Spot on. It's very annoying

Heater hose will work as a temporary solution is what I meant. You don't need to use the formed hose, you can rotate the breather to suit any hose. No point paying out the ass for pre-shaped hose. You can also buy half meters from Hoseco. At $18 a meter it's not too bad.

Any hose store?? Theoretically heater hose 'should' be ok, as it's mostly air with just a bit of vapour. But really you should get some proper oil control hose. I get mine from Hoseco. Otherwise Enzed, Pirtek, etc. etc. Just go in and ask for 5/8 oil control hose.

This. Always.

Earls

Nah, to suit the boost really. At the power level you're aiming for, OEM-style coilpacks will struggle to give a strong enough spark for a 1.1mm gap; the spark is likely to blow out resulting in misfires. So you reduce the gap to avoid misfiring. As Ash said, coppers would be more than ok, you can regap them, and they will only cost you around $20 for a set of 6.

Yeh you're gonna need a 0.8mm plug gap, possibly 0.6mm depending on how good your coilpacks are. The NGK Iridiums were a waste if they are 1.1mm, they can't be regapped.

Right, I've flicked through the Speedflow catalog, and I think I've worked out a better way of doing the push on fitting end of the braided line. What I'm thinking is running with 200 series braided hose and fittings from the turbo to around the back of the head where the stock hard line goes into the push on hose. From here, get a male-to-male coupling like this: And then get a 100 series push on hose end on the other side. Considering the coupling is about $3 and the push on fitting is about $7, this would work out much cheaper than the extra braided line I would have to buy to run it all the way to the bottom of the intake manifold where the stock feed comes from. This is where I get a bit confused though. If I were to go with this method, what size push on fitting would I need? -6 still, or -4? The car isn't here with me to check quickly, so I'm not sure, but I'm leaning towards -4?

Too easy then! Thanks Richard

Eh, Western Aus, braided lines aren't cause for panic here. They would be the least of my worries if they were How does it work using the braided hose as push on hose though? I would need to get a much bigger ID hose, does that not cause issues with flow?

Yeh, I will try to make it follow the same path as the stock hard lines. May need to make brackets?? So with the push on fitting, can I just use the stock one and get braided hose to suit? What about size of the line, I take it I don't want to go any bigger than factory or I may need restrictors? I'm not really keen on buying cheap kits off eBay, not when it's so easy to make them myself. Speedflow gear isn't too expensive when I'm putting it together, so I'd rather do that.

Can you confirm you're running 123's? What size are they if you are, cos you're not running 275's.

Hey guys, I've spent the last 20 minutes or so looking for info as I was sure plenty of people had done this, but I couldn't find anything. If this has been answered, please just point me in the right direction So basically while I have the head off, I want to make up some braided water lines to replace the stock hard lines. Reason being is that with the ATR43 G3, the stock lines are reallyyyyy very difficult to get into the turbo. The one short line is easy enough, looks like I just need the banjo fittings and I'm good to go. But I'm not sure what to do with the second line, the one that goes behind the head? I can see that this is a push on fitting on the other end. What do most people do when going to braided lines here, do I need to get an AN fitting welded on somewhere? Thanks for any help, Cheers, Martin.