Hanaldo

They are stock at the moment, they won't be when the head goes back on.

I'll post up a picture later, but with the other gear dot to dot and the belt lined up, the mark on the intake gear is one tooth away from the mark on the backing plate. Timing belt is OEM. Head is coming off for reconditioning to sort out my sticking valve issue.

Hey all, First of I'm in the process of pulling the head of my 25DET Neo, and while putting it to TDC I noticed the intake cam gear is out one tooth. Stock gears, VCT is still enabled. I have no idea who adjusted it, has probably been like that since Japan or at least since the motor went into my car. I'm a little bit suspicious that this may have contributed to my previous issues of lazy response and down a bit of power. So my question is, while I have everything off, would I be ok to set it back to where it should be? It's only retarded by one tooth, so not a long way out. I won't be driving it hard before it gets retuned anyway? Cheers for help, Martin.

This. As I said, I really only used it to keep the gasket paper in place. The paper does the job fine on its own.

Balls this thread took off! I farkin love the Wasteland

Not all split dumps are vent to atmo.

I like you kid, so I'm gonna help you out. Now I know it's not an R33, but you're gonna love it anyway. PM member BakemonoRicer and have a chat to him. If you're lucky, he will probably sell you his 500ps NA rotary RX7 for pretty cheap! It's just gonna need a new headgasket and then you're good to go!!

And yet SimonS14 and a couple of the other drift guys all rave about their grip?

Wouldn't expect a hell of a lot, assuming they are off the car? Probably about $250-$300 each, including primer. Maybe a bit more.

He did say it was the stock manifold. *EDIT* Actually after reading it again, I guess he didn't really. He said it "utilized the existing manifold" which I interpreted to be the stock manifold.

Or both!?

$15 in shipping!? Root that for a joke, unless I'm getting a box of 100 for that I used gasket paper on mine with just a very very thin layer of gasket goo. Was more just to hold the gasket paper in place while I bolted the drain back on.

Your cat needs its guts bashed out, you're not gonna get any flow through that.

None. There isn't a turbo in existence that does what you are asking. If there was, it would have come up in a search.

Looks it.

Commonwealth Employment Service???

I agree with Ash 110% At a minimum, get some good brake pads on there and change your brake fluid if you don't know when it was last changed. Your calipers will still be fine unless you are planning on getting into track work, but some slotted rotors wouldn't be a bad idea. I'd also recommend doing your suspension, and KU31's are definitely not my choice of tyre for 300rwkw. Your radiator might still be ok, unless again you're getting into track work, I'd leave it for now and just keep an eye on it. You're also going to need to do another service. Most tuners I've spoken to will always change oil and filter when they install a new turbo, regardless of the condition the stuff they are throwing out. If you're doing injectors at the same time then that's a new fuel filter, etc. etc.

Nup, gotta pull it off to find out. If you're not mechanically minded, it's a prick of a job to do on the 34 because they use a pull-type clutch. Better to just assume your clutch is stock/worn and replace it. If it turns out to be an aftermarket clutch in somewhat decent condition then sell it off and recoup a bit of your money, but that's better than having it fail on the dyno which will cost you money and time anyway.

Bellmouth. Split are rubbish.

Yeh but you're not gonna get stung with a fine for having a 100 cell cat on there, that's the point. For those saying a decat pipe flows better; I've got dyno sheets from the back to back tests I did with my old ATR43 G2 turbo. One run made 290rwhp, that was with my full exhaust including my cat on there. The second run made 295rwhp, that was with the exhaust dropped after the front pipe. Absolutely no difference through the mid-range what-so-ever, and 0 difference in response.

Simple search would have given you your answers. What clutch have you got? If it's stock then yes, that will need to be upgraded.

There is no difference, RB20DE and RB20DET are exactly the same and are pretty much the same as an RB30E gearbox as well

Haha I did the exact same thing with the polarities! +1 for 30A.

OP, I suggest you go and look in the Naturally Aspirated section. There is a thread in there called "How to Turbo Your NA" and it's full of priceless info on what's required, what to expect, results, etc. etc. It's your best source of info.