Hanaldo

Sell. Buy GTT. Trust me.

I see, fair enough then.

I can take a photo of it in the rail? Lol. Looking through the Earls and Speedflow catalogs, there is NPT, AN and Metric threads for these plugs. Just going by the pictures, it looks like it's an NPT plug, it doesn't have an o-ring and the metric plugs aren't internal. So I guess as long as HKS are following what seems to be international standard, then it should be an NPT plug... Well mine is a genuine HKS, I doubt they have any stock of those. In any case, I believe Autobarn no longer exist in WA, we only have Auto1 here Mobile hydraulics guy is probably a bit too lazy for me haha, if no-one on here knows what the fitting is then I'll just wait until I can get it out and then make the trip again, no big deal.

Yehhh I could do, I was just hoping someone had needed to replace one before and remembered exactly what they bought, that way I could be sure it would be correct. Really the best way would just be to pull it out and take it with me, it's just so far to drive

Yes, it's similar to that, but internal design, like this: However I'm not sure on the size or thread. -10 would be way too big, that wouldn't even fit on the rail lol. I suspect it might be -6 as the end fittings were both -6, but then someone told me it isn't an AN or NPT fitting

Dori, I'm after carbon fibre mate Out of interest, you said the price goes down the more people we get wanting the same item yeah? How many people per item do we need to make this happen, or is it a drop per person??

Was Dori's a proper antisurge cover though? I thought it was just a normal cover with holes drilled in it??

Have one The plan is to go dual entry in the future so I don't want to weld it. Wouldn't really want to weld it anyway, means getting it anodized again. Not too big a deal but I'm aiming for as quick a turn-around as possible this time, really want the car back on the road.

Nah no chance powder coating will cover that mate. It doesn't look too bad in the pictures, how deep is it? If it's really deep then you would need to get them welded, but they don't look that bad. Looks like a quick skim around the outside of the rim on a lathe would fix it up, then it would be ready for powder coating.

You won't regret it man, the BC's have a really good range of dampner. On full soft they are really comfortable, bit stiffer than the old King springs that used to be on mine. On full hard they are rock solid, but not as hard as the Tein's wound all the way up. I was told when setting mine up to have the dampner at the front a little bit harder, to compensate for the weight of the engine. So I usually have my fronts on about 22, rears on 15. I soften them up a bit when I go to the track. The way I did it was I had a basic idea of how much further I wanted to lower it when I installed them, then I set them to the same height as my old springs and then lowered them by how much I wanted. That was with everything out of the car. Then when I lowered it later I did it on the car. Takes about an hour or so to do on the car, so it's no big deal. Just getting all four corners the same can be a bit tedious.

It leaks. When I originally put it in, I only put it in finger tight and without any thread sealant on it (doesn't have an o-ring) as I was just using it to block the hole while everything was apart, had been planning on taking it out again later. Then of course in my excitement when everything was back together, I forgot about it. For some reason, it was then impossibly tight and I rounded it thinking it must be about to crack loose. It seems to have stopped leaking, but I can't exactly see it while I'm driving and the fuel pressure goes up. I have this thing about fire in my engine bay, so I'd rather get it out, replace it, and put it back in properly.

If you have a GTR spoiler then yes. Otherwise no.

Yep, BR's mate. You'd be crazy to get the V1's for the sake of $100. And that price that Matt found, that's crazy stuff!

Haha thanks mate, I'll let you know I farkin got it in there though, it's gotta come out again! Lol.

That's the one. If no one knows exactly what the fitting is then I will attempt to get it out and take it in. It's just that the liquid transfer solutions stores aren't really near me, it's a good 100km round trip to get to any of them. I will be going to Enzed tomorrow to pick up some braided hose and fittings, so thought if someone can tell me what it is then it saves me a trip. I haven't got it out yet because I still haven't found a 6.5mm allen key. It's also impossible to get a full size allen key on it properly with the Plazmaman plenum on. The head is coming off this weekend, so will get it out when everything else is off.

Hey all, I posted this topic awhile back in the cosmetic section, no idea why lol, it made sense at the time. Anyway, I stupidly rounded the internal wrenching plug that blocks the middle return hole on my HKS fuel rail, I just wanted to know if anyone knows what size and thread that plug is so I can replace it? Is it an NPT plug or? Cheers for any help, Martin.

Looks custom to me, just a vinyl sticker.

Wouldn't wait until there is a need, by then it will probably be too late and a whole lot more expensive. You're probably wearing out your pump a lot faster by running it at low voltage, Bosch do say to run it at a minimum of 13.5v.

BC's ftw

Should go to the factory MAP sensor.

Why not rewire yours? It's cheap and easy to do.

Nylon is very very strong. Frankly, I have my doubts that air flowing back through the compressor will do any damage, as there is no load on anything. Actual compressor surge which occurs on throttle when the engine can't consume the air being generated by the turbo; that I could understand how it would damage things as there is significant load on the turbine and therefore the compressor. But when the shaft is just free-wheeling in decel and off-throttle situations, there is very little resistance to the air flowing backwards. Perhaps on already weakened blades it might put enough stress on them to be the final straw on the camels back to cause major damage, but otherwise the wheels should be built to handle much more stress. The only harm I can see it doing is to performance. And performance is good. Don't do flutter kids.

It's not overly useful, it's just more useful than an AFR gauge to most people. Gauges are really just about learning the 'norm' for your car. So if you're like me and you constantly watch your gauges, you know what is normal and what is not. If your alternator starts to die or your volt load changes, you'll notice it and possibly avoid getting stuck. Can also be useful for determining the load on your alternator, ie. watch how far it dips when you turn your headlights/radio/horn/etc. on. Or watching to make sure your car is charging at the correct voltage, not over or under charging. All of this generally means a hell of a lot more and is more subject to change than the air:fuel ratio of a car. The way Nissan intended the car to function, the AFR should never really change a lot, so it's useless to monitor it.

There's a lot of things you don't seem to understand. These weren't intended as fkn race cars dude. Why would your average driver need an AFR gauge? Battery voltage is much more useful. As for the boost gauge being inaccurate, they are almost 15 years old now, of course they are inaccurate. AFR is far from the most important gauge, in fact I'd say they are completely unnecessary unless you are planning on doing your own tuning or tracking the car.

Sure that's not your injectors?