Hanaldo

Yeh... No worries.

So which one is it? Tell us your mods, all of them. Otherwise we are trying to diagnose an issue with absolutely no idea about your setup, you could well be barking up the wrong tree with the fuel pump if there are other things we don't know about. If those are his only modifications then no, no you do not.

500hp with a standard 26 with a bit of boost? You have no idea what you're talking about do you lol?

The issue is that under normal circumstances, fibreglass is resistant to ethanol but not proofed. So over time, your average fibreglass fuel tank will dissolve with ethanol. But fibreglass tanks that are designed for use with ethanol are lined with a special resin that proofs them against ethanol. So the new tanks will be suitable as they will be designed for it, the old tanks that are already in place will not.

So as Jez said; put it in, drive it sedately to a tuner, and get them to check everything out. You could also just pull your fuel pump out and check what it is, takes 10 minutes. If it's a stock GTST pump then you can be fairly certain that's what the issue was.

This is me in a nutshell On that last track day I did with those tyres I was really experimenting though, trying to see how late I could brake, how hard I could accelerate, how much speed I could carry through the corners, etc. As a result I lost it a number of times. Was one hell of a day though

Given it was you that made this comment, notsureifsrs...

No. The compressor housing would foul on the exhaust mani, hence the need for such a large spacer. How the hell do you think it could foul on the block/rocker covers lol?

Hey guise, what is goes on in hurr?

You might have mentioned he's a second-hand parts dealer... lol.

Who is raving? They looked decent for the price. They might not look as pretty as a 6Boost, but if they do the job then why not for a budget build? Those of us who do spend a lot of money on our cars most likely would go for a top quality manifold, but there's a market for those who value function over form. Obviously holes and warped flanges is a whole other level of crap, but to be honest I don't understand why one wouldn't just send something like that back. Doesn't matter if it's a $50 manifold or a $2000 manifold, if it arrives in crap condition like that then just get a refund?

Just look out for the fakes.

Where did you buy it from? Did you buy it brand new from Hybrid Performance or was it second hand? If it was brand new, why did you bother trying to fix it? I would have just got a refund. If it was second hand then I suppose it doesn't bode well for the life-span of these things, but really if you're buying second hand parts you have no idea what sort of life it has lived.

What's with that massive spike of power at the end there??

The 34 GT is somewhat of a mutt though, the 34 GTT brake stuff doesn't fit straight on. I've got 33 GTST calipers on mine, and from memory the GT uses a 12(I think) mm bolt same as the R33, whereas the GTT uses a 14(again from memory) mm bolt. So to fit the GTT stuff, you would need to drill out the holes. HOWEVER, I believe this even varies between early model GT's and late model GT's. Early models use the 12mm, late models use the 14mm. In my case (1998, early model) the GTST calipers fit straight on. I went with HEL braided lines (for the sake of ~$100, why wouldn't you?) and upgraded the master cylinder at the same time as well. Definitely not hard. I would recommend just going and measuring your caliper bolt holes though.

They look like ~+28. Let me know how close I was Matt OP, the sizes you were originally given are rubbish, 17x8 is smaller than your factory wheels. I've got 18x9.5 +22 on the back and 18x8.5 +28 on the front on mine: Keep in mind that guard work depends on how low you want to go. I had to roll all my guards because I went very low, I'm almost tucking rim at the back. I don't reallyyyy recommend this, it looks baller but it's a pain in the ass. If I could be bothered, I would raise it back up. These wheels had no trouble fitting without guard modifications when my ride height was taller:

From an authorized dealer??

I've got 2 as well. It doesn't do anything with regards to controlling boost, it just gives you your target gate pressure. My target gate pressure was 14psi, so I've got two 7psi springs.

Does running nitrogen make much difference?? Bit off topic now but this intrigued me.

That air con pipe is relatively flexible, you can quite easily manipulate it away from the gate pipe so that it sits on top of the chassis rail. I had to do it with mine as there was no space for the screamer pipe. Just take your time and don't force it too much, it's not hard. I also wrapped mine with reflective tape as well as wrapping the screamer with exhaust wrap. It's still all good. Can't say the same about my air con drain or the boot on my steering rack

What injectors??

I imagine that would only be possible if boost was being controlled by the Haltech? With boost being controlled separately by the HKS EVC, it's not going to do it automatically.

43psi.

Thanks for that Brad, I appreciate it. For anyone reading this and is worried by my previous post, Brad has explained what happened with my catch can and unfortunately the issue was caused by BSA and was out of his control. I'm satisfied that the issue was no fault of Brad's or Pro Fabrications, and I will continue to recommend their work to anyone who wants the very best in custom fabrication.