Hanaldo

Yeh not sure how the 34 GTR ones would compare with the GT/T ones, as the bonnets are different. So in that case I can see how the air guide would be different. Has anyone got pictures of how the stock GT/T bumper fits on? I can't find any good pictures. The ones I have found look exactly the same as mine, but I can't be 100% sure that they are pictures of the stock bumper. If they are then I'm pretty sure that the Top Secret front bar sits in exactly the same spot as the stock one as it looks like they use the same mounting points, like this one:

I do putt around until everything is up to operating temp, takes a good 10 minutes though. I just assumed that having an oil cooler without a thermostat would make it take a lot longer. Not that I am dying to thrash my car as soon as possible, really I hardly boost around on the street as it is. But the quicker things can warm up to their correct operating temperature the better? Out of interest, what size oil cooler are/were you using? Would that make a lot of difference to whether you are under/over cooling?

Hey all, I was just after some experienced input from anyone who has fitted a radiator 'cooling' panel to their car. I'm using the stock bonnet, so it would give no cooling benefits on my car, I'm purely after the cosmetic benefits. Problem is, I've got a Top Secret front bar, and I'm not sure how this would affect fitment? I've never actually looked at how/where the stock front bar sits on an R34 as my car came with the Top Secret kit, but I notice aftermarket cooling panels specify that they are for the front bumper. However, surely things such as the bonnet lever/catch etc. would all still be in the same place? The Top Secret bar bolts on using two tabs on each side of the top grill, right next to the headlights. As this is where the stock bonnet sits, I can't imagine the stock bumper would be too much different? So, my question is, where do these aftermarket cooling panels sit that makes them bumper-specific? Would it be possible to modify one to suit my front bar or not? Given I'm after looks, I'd obviously want it to fit quite well. Would I be better off making my own? Cheers, Martin.

Well why would you not run one? For the sake of $150-$200 it's worth it for me. I may not live in an area that has consistent sub-zero temperatures, but we still see sub-10 degrees in winter here, and on occasion we get below zero if you are getting up at 5am like myself. Not sure about you guys, but my neighbours don't appreciate me idling my car at the best of times, let alone 5am.

If you purchase a Mocal inline thermostat then they use male fittings on each end, so you only require an additional 4 straight hose ends which isn't too big a deal, would cost about 60 bucks. A lot of the other inline thermostats I've seen have got female threads so you need to buy 4 female-male adapters in addition to the 4 straight hose ends. Again not too big a deal, but would cost about 100 bucks compared to 60 bucks, and you've then got more fittings that can potentially leak. Considering you're most likely going to pay ~$200 for a new Greddy thermostatic sandwich plate compared to around $150 for an inline thermostat + fittings (depending on brand), I still think you'll be a bit better off financially by going with an inline thermostat over the Greddy option.

Ah perfect, you're a legend mate! If you PM me how much I owe you then I'll transfer it straight away. Did you weld on the drain as well?

Any sign of my catch can yet Brad? Probably still early days for it to be arriving, but thought I'd check anyway.

Just run an in-line thermostat? Earls make them, as do a few others. No big deal, will require a few more fittings but that's money you will have saved by not buying a kit with an inbuilt thermostat anyway.

I would hit the track first, with an oil temp gauge which I'm assuming you have. If you see your temps getting that high, take it easier and make plans to get an oil cooler. Chances are you won't see them get that high on your first time out anyway, unless you go on a hot day. Until you actually need an oil cooler, it's just another thing that may go wrong and cause problems.

Not sure if standard 25's are different to Neo's, but there was no chance of this on mine. The standard GTT return hose could actually fit inside the GTR bov outlet. I ended up using a large piece of radiator hose to go over the GTR outlet, then pushed the standard return hose inside to act as a reducer. Clamped it down hard and never had any trouble with it. When I put it back on my new setup I will see if my fabricator can make me a reducer out of hard pipe, will make it look a bit better.

Just to clarify, the post count wasn't the point of my comment. Some of the members I respect most on here have less than 500 posts and have been around for years. I was simply indicating that perhaps if 51NNA had spent more time on here, he would realize that these guys are amongst the MOST qualified on here to be making the comments they are. And yes, I'm talking real-world experience. I mean you've got two qualified and well experienced welders here indicating that there are improvements to be made with the welds. Sure Simon could have been a little 'nicer' with his criticism, but again, spend some time on here and you might not be so sensitive to comments like that. Kam, I had a look on your website and your ebay sales but couldn't find a mention of any guarantees specifically for these manifolds. Is this because you do not offer one, or am I not looking in the right places?

No. Flange is exactly the same, but GTR has a much bigger outlet.

GTR mate

Mine holds 20psi rock solid, no issues. Have seen people on here running lots more.

God damn it this thread makes me feel inadequate about my car. Those last two GTR's are absolutely mint guys, very well done.

I suggest PM'ing 34GeeTeeTee if he doesn't see this thread. Matt bought one of those air boxes for his 34 and it required a fair amount of modification to fit, but I'm not sure how much of that was because of his high mount and FMIC setup. He did mention he needed to do a lot of modification to get it to sit tight against the body when I asked about it, so they might need some modification just to fit the body. I know some of the stuff I have bought from JustJap required a bit of modification to fit properly, so it's not unlikely.

Will do a better update with pictures etc. tomorrow, but for now... It's done. All back together, and... I'm ready to burn it. Trailering it to my tuner on Thursday to hopefully get tuned on Friday. If he doesn't finish it on Friday then it will be stuck there until they reopen on the 21st of May, so fingers crossed. Unfortunately I couldn't sort out the injectors to get it to idle, my NIStune software doesn't work properly and wouldn't sync. So apart from priming the fuel pump a few times and fixing the few fuel leaks here and there that we found, I couldn't do much else in the way of making sure it was all correct. Means I will need to pay my tuner to bleed the cooling system and fix any other mistakes that we have made, of which I'm sure there will be many. Also rounded the grub screw in the HKS rail as it was leaking so we tried to get it out but couldn't fit an Allen key in between it and the plenum nicely. Was one of those things where you just think it must surely be about to crack loose and then bam, the fkn thing is rounded and it's a drill-it-out job. In hindsight we should have been patient, but it's done now. Extremely pissed off about that. I'm glad it's all finished because I am done with it.

Mate, while I understand what you are getting at, I don't think you can come on this forum with 100 posts and start telling members like Blake and Zebra and Simon that they don't know what they are talking about because they are well respected on here for their knowledge and experience. I also don't think you can say that their comments are unjustified. It is atleast constructive critism, they are telling Kam where there can be improvements made on his product. Kam's product has improved since he started posting on here due to some of the feedback he is getting. As for 1200 for a 6Boost manifold, you should keep in mind that they also come with a lifetime guarantee. Out of interest Kam, do you offer something similar??

Mounted on the rear housing

Externally gated G3, stock manifold. All the supporting mods etc.

You should get close. I'm making 393rwhp @18psi. Have asked my tuner to wind it up to 20 when he retunes it next week, so we will see how it goes. I think it should crack 400.

G3 is the one you want.

400-450 hp or rwhp? Very different. If it's rwhp, that's G3 or SS2 territory.

Went and picked up an Earls -12 weld on fitting today, thought it easier than trying to find an appropriately sized pipe cut off. Just at a local fabricator now getting it welded on, let's hope the blokes welding skills are better than his customer interaction skills. What a traumatic experience lol. But if it's a tight weld and it all works then it's worth it. Bought some -12 hose for the IAC valve as well, but realized too late that this stuff is not very flexible, I'm worried it will kink due to the positioning of the IAC on the Plazmaman. Will find out tomorrow

This. They won't be going anywhere. Side note - how do you think badges etc are held on? And most of those are still going strong with 20+ year old double sided tape.