Hanaldo

You said that twice in the same post... You drunk? Lol. I don't see how top mount would help response? Unless the manifold is a restriction, and as I was told in the other thread in no uncertain terms, the stock manifold is not a restriction at these sorts of power levels. So I can't see top mount being of any benefit performance wise.

This. Not actually all that hard, though I'm waiting on my tune next week to see how much of a difference it makes. Lack of TCS has been giving me headaches for years now. Your other option is to just trick the ECU into thinking it is receiving a signal from the TCS, though I think it would be easier to get the Stagea image uploaded. I also think you will find it impossible to do fit a high mount turbo setup in with the cooler piping with the TCS butterfly still in place, the damn thing just takes up so much room. Unless you had a very sharp angle that messed up your air flow. I agree with GTSBoy on this though, I don't like the design of that piping with regard to air flow. You would be much better off just switching to a forward facing plenum, though having just done this myself I understand about the expense side of it...

They would be measured at the flywheel but you could give a rough estimation for how much wheel kw it can hold.

I don't see why not, at cruise load you would be lucky to be making 100hp, probably closer to 80 or 90hp. Shouldn't be using a lot of fuel unless you put your boot into it. But I digress, Anthony did say his definition of cruising involved boosting it hard, which is what this car does best As if anyone could just putt around in a 950hp 2.8L GTR

Fine by me, would just like to have it all sorted before end of September for Powercruise If I get impatient I'll look around, but no rush yet.

Hey Dori, Let me know when you start the next group buy, I'm keen on the 34 vented headlight, 34 GTR rear wing blade, and possibly the Jun high wing stands. Can't be bothered doing my own shopping though, so I'll wait for your next group buy

Right, I've hopefully sorted out all my issues First of all, the catch can is on it's way back to Brad to be modified to suit the new intercooler piping. Hopefully I worked out where it needs to be modified correctly, but I gave it a bit more room than I thought it needed for safety. Fingers crossed it doesn't affect the catch cans functionality too much, but I don't think it will. Revised catch can will have some Earls fittings as well, so I'm looking forward to getting it back Then I phoned up my local brake specialist and managed to source a replacement check valve for the brake booster, will pick that up tomorrow. After some googling, I believe I have also sorted out the throttle cable problem as well. Most people seem to have solved it by purchasing a cable clamp from a bicycle store and clamping off the cable at the accelerator pedal to keep the tension. So I'll drop into my local bike store tomorrow to see what they've got. Fitting for the IAC valve should be sorted out this week sometime as well.

ID1000's maxed at 250kw!? How rich is he going to be running it??? ID2000's and 2 044's should do an easy 400rwkw.

Lol it's not easy man. Slightly worn semi's, standard calipers and EBC Green Stuff pads certainly don't help, but you really do realize how fast a 400rwhp car is when you're trying to brake late into corners and then trying to get out of them fast without spinning the wheels. I found I was getting better track times when I turned the boost down. Not to say the lack of traction isn't fun in itself

Power Enterprise injectors sold.

Haha Luke, my advice for if you're getting bored with 400rwhp... Get out on the track more! I can imagine you will get bored with whatever power you have, because street driving is boring, plain and simple. But out on the track, different story. When I got out to Collie awhile back, I found I had to turn the boost down because at 400rwhp the car was too much for me, I'm shit! Haha. And Collie isn't as technical as Barbs, so I can't wait to see how I'm going to go there. The track will really put you to the test and give you some real fun, on the street you can't really have any fun no matter what power level you've got. I'm itching for Barbagallo to be finished so I can get back out there and try to get the 400 to the ground

Exedy ceramic racing clutch has been doing the job for me for about 18 months now with the various HG's I've had, 24 months including the standard turbo. No problems as of yet. If it ever does fail, I've got the option of either going twin plate or custom carbonetic single plate. Will make the decision if when it happens.

Yeh mate, it's all been marked out, ready to go. I'll send it off express on Tuesday when the post office opens up again, so should arrive Wednesday?? What address should I send it to? PM replied by the way *EDIT* Scratch that, just calculated express postage to be about $100 each way. Will have to be standard postage then.

Right, time for some more updates. Got through a lot of work this weekend after a couple weeks without much progress, and I'm happy to say the car is very close to being finished! If it hadn't been for the setbacks with the brake booster check valve and the throttle cable not fitting, it mayyy have been possible to get it finished yesterday, but too bad Aiming to have it ready to start next week, and then I'll play around with the NIStune to see if I can get it to idle ok with the new injectors so we can see if it has any leaks or other issues. Will book it in for a tune once I know I can get all the issues sorted out this week, so with any luck it may be getting tuned either next week or the week after Anyway, this is where we are at: First things first, we wanted to get the intercooler piping sorted out, as we thought it would be the hardest job on the list. As it turned out, it was actually one of the easiest jobs. It was as simple as buying a 3" to 2.5" 90 degree reducer, a 2.5" 90 degree bend, a few trial fitments to see where we needed it to sit, modifying the existing cold side piping from the FMIC, and then trimming down the 2.5" 90 degree bend. I didn't get any pictures of the existing cooler piping before we cut it, but it's your standard FMIC crossover-type piping (you can see it in some of my earlier photos if you're interested): (for those on the ball, you'll notice I decided to respray the one hard pipe while I had it off as it was somewhat dinged up as you can see in the above picture) The small metal bend is a piece of the original cooler piping. It was luckily the exact shape that we needed, and in the exact right place where we needed to cut the hard pipe. So finally something went our way. With that all measured and cut, this is how it sits: It fits perfectly. The small metal bend even has enough space to weld a fitting for the IAC valve on: More winning! Yes, I'm aware of how tacky it all looks, but it will do for now. I just needed something to get it together so I could get the car on the dyno and tuned, then I can drive it to my fabricator so he can make me some nice stainless steel piping with a -12 Speedflow fitting for the IAC valve. So it will look much better in a few weeks, but this will do for now. I will also be flaring the ends of the piping that I cut so the silicon joiners have some assistance in holding 20+psi. With that done, time to do the rest of the plumbing and wiring. Starting with the IAC valve, I plumbed it all up so it would be as neat as possible: Unfortunately with so many hoses in one place, it is very difficult to get it looking nice. But I did the best I could, and all up those three hoses required about 2.5-3 meters for me to run it neatly haha. I still need to get the missing vacuum hose you can see there for the IAC valve, but as we needed to get the fitting welded on first I haven't bothered with that yet. While I was at it, I also plumbed up the PCV valve, which I'm going to leave functional; and I plumbed in the rest of the vacuum hoses. So far I've gone through about 7 meters of 3/16 fuel hose, 5 meters of 5/16 fuel hose, 3 meters of 11/32 VL brake booster hose, and a couple of other lengths of various size hoses. I also bought brand new hose clamps to put on them all as I thought I may as well replace the standard 'pinch-type' ones while I was at it. Add in the various t-pieces, y-pieces, conduit, electrical connectors, and other various small pieces, and this is where costs start to spiral out of control. The hose and clamps alone have cost me about $160 so far, not including the braided line and EFI hose I used for the fuel system. Admittedly I have forked out a bit more so that I could replace things that didn't necessarily need replacing, but that's how my whole build has gone so far so no point stopping now I feel the output is worth the gain as well, as everything is looking very neat and shiny with so much being replaced. Moving on, we then got stuck into the wiring. Starting with the TPS: We managed to run all the looms and plugs so that the only plug that needed extending was the IAC valve. I forgot to take any close up pictures of that, but if you have a look at the earlier pictures of the IAC then you can juuust see it there. I'm quite happy with how neatly we did that, especially as I used it as an opportunity to teach my mates younger brother (who is infatuated with my car more than I am haha ) how to solder. I figured any mistakes he made would be easy enough to fix up, and it meant the world to him so I'm quietly confident of my passage into heaven when the time comes Anyway, he did a very good job and I didn't have to change anything, so I got him to heat shrink it up and then put it all into some conduit for neatness. Speaking of conduit, we decided to do the same with all the visible wiring looms such as the TPS, the injector harness, etc. etc. The injector harness looks neater, but bulkier, which ruins it a bit. I think it still looks better than the old factory tape, so I'm going to leave it. Thoughts?? For the rest of the wiring, the original plan was to hide it all underneath the plenum. After trialing that idea, we decided that whilst it looked ok from the top, it was very very messy underneath the plenum and would have made it incredibly hard to get to anything under there, let alone diagnose and locate any problems. So we scrapped that idea and pulled it all out again. What we ended up doing was making a bracket for some of the sensors, and then bunching most of the wiring together in the top left hand corner of the engine bay under my alarm box, near the grommet where the throttle cable and other things run back into the cabin: While I'm not exactly thrilled with how 'cop-friendly' it is or the way it looks, it still looks fine just looking at the engine bay unless you go poking your head into that corner. There were quite a few hoses and wires running back through that grommet there anyway, so we decided that considering it didn't make it look a lot messier, the ease of access aspect of it made it the best option. Of course we could have extended all the wiring and hidden it better, but I decided against that as anyone with a bit of electrical knowledge would know that joins in wiring are asking for trouble. So instead of risking countless electrical problems, I decided on the 'slightly messier but still ok' hiding spot for everything Then it was just a case of a few finishing touches, like replacing the stock clamps on the radiator hoses that are notorious for cutting into the hose, and replacing and rerouting the hoses on my charcoal canister: It's amazing how much of a difference something so simple can make, but just those hose clamps on the radiator hose neatened up the whole setup a massive amount. I'm also very happy with the hoses on the charcoal canister, as we managed to run them in such a way that what you can see in that photo is all you can see in real life too, it's all very well hidden. So with all that done, this is essentially how things are looking now (plus the intercooler piping which I had already removed again before these photos): The only things left to do now are weld up the fitting for the IAC valve, source a replacement check valve for the brake booster hose, and figure out what the hell I'm going to do about the damn throttle cable. I had a look at the other end of the throttle cable to see if it could be adjusted in-cabin, but I can't see any easy way of doing it in there either. So still not sure what I'm going to do there. The other issue is the whole catch can situation. I'll be restoring the breathers to the factory setup for now, and I'll have to jam the factory overflow bottle back in there as well. Haven't heard back from Brad about how to sort it out, so it will have to be ditched for now. I'm tempted to just cut my losses and sell it and get someone local to fabricate something for me, but Brad is the best in the business so I'm reluctant to do so. Time shall tell, for now I'm just focusing on getting the car back on the road.

Sorry to keep bugging you Brad, I know you're busy, but I'm getting quite desperate with my catch can situation as I don't want to get back out on the track until I've sorted it out. If you could reply to my PM or email as soon as you have a chance I'd be hugely appreciative. Alternatively I could take it to my local alloy fabricator, but I hate to take the chance that they ruin it. Thanks again mate, Martin.

This sounds like your issue. I bet he has played around with some hoses and not noticed has has pulled one off or he has replaced one and not put a clamp back on, etc etc. I would just go over all your hoses, and I mean all of them. Unfortunately it's not a fun job on a Neo As for oil, I personally always use full synthetic as well but it's not realllllly critical. Semi-synthetic will do the job.

Why you guise keep referring to goats? Do these goats make my laptop more ballin? Perhaps more embarrassing than a HP with Tinkerbell stickers on it, mine is an Acer

Well it doesn't have a very reliable tacho, but... It's pretty fast. I think it has a cold start issue though, it's a bit sluggish until its warmed up. Sometimes it runs kinda hot, and then it sounds like its screaming a little bit? I bought it a nice eBay bottom mount intercooler which has a nice note to it as well.

But... But it came with a free external hard-drive

I doubt it has been clear coated, most cf fabricators don't do that. You're most likely just looking at the wet finish of the resin.

This thread is awesome lol. I have a laptop I got it from JB Hi Fi. It has Word and like spider solitaire n shit. It's the bulls tits.

That's cheating! Do it the fun way

I'm not 100% sure that it is working yet, won't know until it is back on the dyno. I know the solenoid works as I switched it on with an active test using NIStune. So that's all good. I'm fairly sure that my tuner simply disabled the VCT because of the issues my ECU was having with not getting a TCS signal. That has since been taken care of by reprogramming my ECU with a Stagea image and there are no DTC's popping up anymore. So when it goes back on the dyno I will ask him to check that the VCT is setup properly. The only other thing I can think of is that my timing is out. Whether someone has messed with the cam gear or I have an issue like Luke had where the harmonic balancer was retarding the timing I don't know, that will be the next thing to check if VCT isn't the problem.

Yeh but I'm already onto that and it hasn't costed me any money yet, that's no fun! By the way, hoping to have results for my latest setup around the middle to end of this month. Just need to get my throttle cable issue sorted and then I'll book it in for a tune. VCT should now be working, so fingers crossed I've got it all right this time haha.

Oh wow. Am I reading the graph correctly in that the run with poncams made 53kw more top-end (ignoring the mid-range gain as well because I can't see that axis) with less boost? If that's the case then I may start thinking about poncams more seriously as well lol. What are the specs on those cams, are they Type-B's, ie. 260's??? I also agree it looks like a restriction somewhere though, what's going on with the shape of the curve Jez, was that caused by the exhaust?