Hanaldo

GTR blow off valve sold pending payment.

Hey all, I have just upgraded my fuel system and intake manifold, so the following parts are no longer needed. Power Enterprise 650cc injectors - $550. These are a direct plug and play injector for the RB25DET Neo, perfect for anyone looking for a simple solution to squirt more fuel in! I was making 393rwhp with these and they had plenty of room for more. I had them flow tested and ultrasonically cleaned before they went into my car and they have only done ~5000kms since then.You will need new O-Rings as the old ones were damaged when I removed them from my car. Easy and inexpensive to replace. Stock RB25DET Neo injectors - $150 ono. I've had these since I installed the PE injectors. They're not doing me any good just sitting here, so may be useful to anyone needing to replace their injectors or turbocharging an NA motor or whatever. They were working perfectly when they came out, could probably do with a clean since they have been sitting around for awhile. Flick me an offer. Stock throttle body and TCS module - $100 ono. Good condition, came off a motor with ~70xxxkms on the clock. Doesn't include throttle position sensor. Stock intake plenum - $50. Just the plenum itself, excludes the stock runners as these are being used with my Plazmaman plenum. Also in good condition. Stock fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator and top fuel dampener - $150 ono. All in very good working condition. I am happy to separate as well, so shoot me an offer if you are just after one of the parts, otherwise it's $150 ono for all of them. Stock crossover intake pipe - $20? Make me an offer. Perhaps useful for people who need to get stickers off, etc. Neo plastic engine cover - $50? Make an offer. Has been painted blue/white and modified to suit front mount intercooler piping. Bracket for Neo engine cover - $15? Make an offer. Stock RB25DET Neo blow off valve - $60. Works perfectly, no longer needed since I upgraded mine to a stock GTR item. Stock GTR blow off valve - $80. Also works perfectly, I used to run the dual GTR bov setup but have since decided to just use the one, so this one is no longer needed. Best way of contacting me is via PM or text message (phone number below). I tend not to answer calls from unknown numbers, so best to send me a message first. I'm on here often as well, so feel free to contact me here. If you want pictures of anything then send me a text and I'll try to get some for you asap, but otherwise they simply look like the stock items they are. With regards to postage, I am happy to post Australia wide at the buyers expense. Not trying to rip anyone off, so just send me your postcode if you're interested and I'll get postage costs calculated for you. Cheers, Martin. 0431047984.

Could be any number of things from bad fuel, to coil packs to air flow meter to vacuum leak... Very hard to say based on the information you've provided. E-Mechanic isn't an easy occupation. Did the mechanic do your fuel filter? Does the car seem like it's running rich at all, any black smoke coming out the exhaust when these surges occur? Does it idle nicely?

Gonna need more detail... What did he change in the service? Define surging, like a sharp cut of power or?

The 040 is a 225lph pump, while the 044 is a 330lph pump. So the 040 can support 520bhp @ 73.5psi, while the 044 can support 730bhp @ 73.5psi. The 040 is also an in-tank pump, while the 044 is designed to sit in-line.

Yehhh just means more waiting, and it really isn't a good solution anyway. I'll just have to get it sorted. Plazmaman's sale team are muppets anyway, they don't know what they are talking about. I'm sure they would just tell me that the stock throttle cable fits and I must be doing something wrong.

I'd say the biggest factor was costs. And the fact that they didn't want to build a car that could potentially compete with the GTR. The GTR was their flagship, the GTT was just the mid-range cheaper option.

Lol sorry, car is too far away to work on during the week Closest I have to an update is I just went and bought $100 worth of hose, hose clamps, and y-pieces so I can get everything plumbed back in Money really doesn't go far these days haha... How does everyone feel about say, 50 washers back to back to space the bracket out? Yeh this is confusing. Are you sure your cable hasn't been modified? Or that it is actually tight? Have you checked to see if you have any additional movement in the butterfly with your foot flat on the accelerator?? Mine is very very loose though, it's easily noticeable. I don't know how much of a difference this would make though. I mean the engine bays are the same, no difference there. Even if the workshop used the stock GT throttle cable instead of using the one from the GTT, the GT and GTT plenums are similar at least position wise, and the cable used to fit perfectly on the stock plenum. After a bit of research, it turns out I'm not the only R34 owner having this problem with a Plazmaman plenum: http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33374&page=4&highlight=Turbob12 So I'm quite sure that it's just an oversight on Plazmaman's behalf.

Lol lets not go putting words in my mouth, I didn't blame anything. I've just simply never thought about the manifold, so wasn't sure if it was a restriction or not, I've not looked into how much the stock manifold can flow.

They provide resistance so they work, but you don't have to pay money to do those exercises. People have no imagination these days, it's so easy to come up with resistance training just using stuff from around the house. You could also give the 300 workout challenge a go

Haha thank you sir I'm not in too bad condition right now, just the one gnarly looking toe nail. It doesn't hurt at all though, so I'm feeling 100%

Yeh that's it mate, current FNT model. Stock manifold and Turbosmart Compgate40. Stock manifold is possibly a restriction, not really sure.

I would just get new air filters.

Do you have air flow meters with a heating element on said dirt bikes? The problem with wet-filters is the oil often gets onto your AFM's heating element which will cause you problems. Modern dry-filters are very very good, there is really no need to oil. For example, the AEM dryflow filter has proven 99.52% filtration efficiency. Most brands of filter (Apexi, K&N, HKS, Injen, etc) these days will be much the same, there's no gimmicks.

My HG is externally gated, can see my results in the 25 dyno thread. 393rwhp@18psi. Mid-range is missing about 30rwkw and boost is lazy due to lack of VCT.

Hey all, I'm currently installing a Plazmaman intake plenum on my R34, and in the process of trying to put the check valve into the new brake booster hose, I accidentally damaged it so now air passes through in both directions. Is there a local store that would stock these, or is there a universal type, etc? Veales, Covs, Repco?? Cheers, Martin.

Thinking out loud is very welcome in this thread mate Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have a look when I get back to it. It didn't make much difference to the fitment where I ran the throttle cable. I have it going around the strut tower properly, but I even tried tucking it under the brake master cylinder, etc. Doesn't make a difference because the adjuster is screwed all the way out, that's where it has to sit. The bracket is quite simply too far forward, it needs to be about 10-15mm further back. how Plazmaman haven't sorted that out I have no idea, but it's wrong. You can see in that photo that if Plazmaman had simply positioned the bracket a little bit further back then it would fit perfectly.

Ah yes, I forgot. James remembered me and gave me a discount, dude is a legend I told him you said hey and he said to tell you "the ranga has left, it's safe to come back" haha.

Agree, most of them just have nice fitment.

Right, yesterdays progress: Bolted IAC valve to the new plenum: And finally bolted the plenum on. This part was a right pig I must add, I've got so many cuts on my arm its not funny, but it's mostly on now. Just the very front bolt that is proving to be impossible, no idea how I'm going to get that one on. Needs less high mount wastegate and more high mount turbo Then made the long trip to MTQ to pick up some silicon joiners to get started on the intercooler piping; saw this while I was there and thought it was funny Back to business, measured up the piping and it doesn't look like it's going to be as hard as first thought. Need to find someone who can weld alloy so I can weld the IAC fitting on though, that will be the hard part With that done there isn't a lot more that we could do without a drop saw, so moved onto trying to fit the throttle cable. More frustration, it doesn't fkn fit. Plazmaman have put the mounting bracket for it about 10mm too far forward, even with it fully adjusted there is too much play in the cable: Gives me about an inch of free play in the throttle and means I can't open the throttle fully, it only opens about 90% with the accelerator to the floor. Very pissed off about that as how hard would it be for Plazmaman to put the bracket 10mm further back and then there would be no problems at all, it would fit perfectly. Anyway, after deciding playing around with that anymore was a waste of time, I finally got round to finishing off the washer bottle relocation: And that's pretty much it. Tried to start plumbing in the IAC valve again but didn't have the right size hose, so will pick some up tomorrow. Can then start plugging sensors back in and trying to figure out vacuum lines etc. I also messed around with the catch can some more, as Brad told me if I can mark the can where it fouls on the piping then there are no restrictions as to how it can be modified. So hopefully that won't affect the catch cans ability too much.

I imagine it's much more likely that it was ripped out and then somebody attempted to set it alight after.

Rubbish, it does nothing to the paint, its sound deadener not heat insulation. The engine bay paint is exactly the same as the bonnet paint and has no issues being an inch away from the turbine housing.

Yeh most supplements are a waste of time. I use whey and creatine as a way of boosting my recovery, using them for anything else is pretty pointless. Good HIIT routine suggested there by your personal trainer, anything that is high intensity is a gold mine. I don't bother with endurance stuff anymore, sprints and high intensity training is the go

Aww yes! I love this thread! Wait... This isn't 22's on a 33 thread

This x1000. Although I would have said lift at least 4 times a week, but that doesn't really make much difference. It's all in the diet, if you mess around with your diet and don't be strict with it then you will fail. If you are strict with your diet but skip a few training sessions every now and then you will still be ok. Can't out exercise a bad diet but you can out diet bad exercise. You also want to be doing your compound lifts (bang for buck movements, as GTST said) at the start of your training session. It's fine to go onto isolation training afterwards if you want to, but rock the deadlifts/squats/clean and press, etc first, always. And always go as hard as you can, don't mess around at the gym. Just go until you can't move anymore, muscular failure is where it's at. Form > weight as well, make sure you have the right technique before you try increasing the weight. With your diet, I recommend counting calories for the first few weeks. It's tedious, but it's honestly the only way to know you are doing it right, it's so easy to consume too much. I don't recommend high fat low carb or high protein low carb, etc. etc. diets at all, you need all of the nutrients and they all = calories, so just watch your calorie intake. I'd aim for a 40/40/20 split of carbs/protein/fat.