Hanaldo

He did have that issue with his injectors. But... It's a workshop. A good workshop, from what I've heard. Good workshops are busy, even simple jobs take time.

I honestly, for the life of me, can NOT figure out what your problem is. Seriously, I wanna know. What's it to you? Why do you care so much? Honestly, I couldn't really care less whether Steven's rebuild works or it doesn't (no offense Steven). It's not my car, why would I? But I still wish him the best of luck with it, and I'll follow along and offer any help or advice that I can because that's just what you do. So why are you so desperate for this to fail? Are you really that narcissistic?

The work you put into this makes me feel ashamed about not wanting to drive the 100km round trip to work on mine So which car are you bringing to Powercruise this year?

As Royce said, Mitch has the weapon of a 32, and Luke's got the S14. Both really good drivers. Haha well import skids are shit house anyway, there's no competition. When I go to shows like Powercruise or Gazzanats or MV, I don't want to watch imports do skids. They are shit. When an import rolls out onto the burnout pad, I boo with the rest of the mullets. And I love imports.

It's not missing, but it passes through the AFM again so it gets measured twice. So the effect of the AFM 'thinking' there is more air in the system then there really is is the same, so more fuel is dumped. I imagine the only way to tune around that is to find which cells are becoming too rich, and then leaning those cells out. Now these cells are most likely to be at very low rpm, correct? You're not going to have issues with stalling because you're running a bit rich at 5000rpm, the issue comes around when you clutch in from higher RPM and return to idle. So the cells adjusted should be at a very low load point, meaning whatever lean spot is created by actually having that air in the system shouldn't cause any issues? Or am I missing something?

You think that's bad, I'm pretty sure my nearest servo is also your nearest servo Who wants to help me take down the WA government? Anyone?

Yes I know, I wasn't implying they were the same, I just thought perhaps the methods of tuning around it were similar given the only real way to do it is to 'trick' the AFM into thinking it's seeing less air. Which means it will have a similar effect when returning it to a plumb back setup, no?

Stao, have you thought about fudging your results to show LESS power, that way when people actually make more power than what they were expecting, HG turbos will be all the rage?

I've blocked off my bov before, didn't seem to make any difference at all. Didn't backfire, never dropped revs on decel let alone stall. Only noticeable difference was the sound. However I never got it tuned like that, so I don't know how much of a difference it was really making. Makes me a bit nervous because I'm not going to have a chance to weld on my bov before I get the car tuned after the Plazmaman install, my fabricator has just had a baby so he is a bit busy. I'd quite like to know if not having a bov on for the tune is going to cause problems...

Yes, perhaps I'm mistaken with rich vs lean, lean makes more sense.

It's slower. Might get the turbo on boost quicker, but it makes less power. Or so it was explained to me. This haha, was referring to rich and retard in a general sense, not the protection sense.

That is generally how it is though, don't be surprised if you actually lose some response when the car is tuned. It will be running a bit rich and retarded which will help get it on boost, when they iron that out of the tune then you generally lose some response.

I'd actually quite like a tuners input on this. How much messing around is done to the AFR's when tuning for an atmo bov? Is it just a little bit of fuel removed to prevent stalling/backfiring at low rpm, or is it enough to cause an issue if it was changed to recirculation? If the adjustments are made for low load cells, ie. ~2000rpm and below then I don't see how a slight lean spot would be an issue. Unless you really have to take out a lot of fuel, or it causes an issue on decel at high rpm, I wouldn't think a retune would be necessary? Experienced opinion?

Yes, I should mention that my rear washer doesn't work. It hasn't worked since I put the new engine in, as I used a washer bottle with only one pump. Not sure about over east, but in WA it's only a requirement that the front windscreen washers work, so I'm not fussed about the back one. Back one never seems to get dirty anyway

Carbon

I've seen quite a few drift cars with around -20 degrees of camber, eg. Lots of them do it to the front wheels and have the backs at around -0.5. So it's definitely still driveable and able to take a beating if it's done properly. Which that Celica is NOT by the way

Ah sweet, I'm keen to see how that went. Toying with the idea of getting one, although not sure if I can justify it when I could simply make another one myself.

God damn... Looking at the pictures, this thing looks like it's going to be mental. Any chance you could fix up the writing, I wanna know what's being done!

Haha pictures finally came through at 3am Lol. I get what you mean about the reg being pitched now, I'll have to give that a go but I'm not sure if it will pitch like that because of the braided line. Might be a good thing it has some extra length.

This is EXACTLY what I am on the look out for at the moment to start my drift build. Will follow this thread with interest to see how you go with it all

Collie is a decent track though, Gazzanats beats the hell out of Motorvation that's for sure. Would have been nice to see some other drifters out there, although Mitch and Luke must have had a blast! The quality of cars there was amazing. The quality of humans not so much, but I think they are inversely proportionate as it's always the case. I was down there yesterday, watched one of the Commy's go up in flames on the burnout pad, rookie error not clamping brake lines All in all it was a good day, would have liked to stay for the second. Unfortunately I think it is a bit far to enter in for just the two days, but I'll be going to watch again next year for sure

It's cool do a degree, like the second and last picture are winning. 1st and 3rd are a bit over the top. We had an event over here called Rising Sunday, there were quite a few cars sporting such fitment. The ones that weren't trailered got stickered.

Pretty much all of it, this is how it sits: It's hard to explain, but most of the wiring and hoses you can see in these pictures will be hidden. I can hide most of it underneath the plenum and between the runners. I'm also thinking about replacing and extending some of the hoses at the back of the motor so I can hide them. It is indeed, I did a bit more research into it on Friday and found in the latest Speedflow catalog they listed the 180 degree 200 series hose end, so they must have released it after the others. It's also very very easy to put together by the way. Took me 2 minutes for each hose and I didn't struggle at all, it's much easier than the 100 series 'cutter' style. You can almost do the fitting up all the way by hand, so you can be very confident that you're not threading the fitting with a stray wire strand or anything like that. With regards to the hoses, I'll be doing something like that for sure. Can't cable tie them together though, braided lines are pretty much like having a hack saw in your engine bay, anything they touch is going to get shredded if given the chance. But my auto sparky mate showed me a neat trick you can do with two cable ties to create an effective cable guide that keeps the hoses neat and close to each other, whilst at the same time keeping them apart from each other. If that makes sense? Haha. I'll also be using some P-Clamps to hold the braided line straight between the plenum and the fuel rail to make sure it doesn't scratch the finish on the rail. The braided hose also doesn't cross under the EFI hose anymore, I put the braided hose on before the EFI hose which is why they did that but I've since swapped them around so they are neater. Unfortunately I cut the braided hose to length when I had the FPR mounted in a different spot. The EFI hose and the braided line were matching until I noticed the reg sits very close to the fuel dampener, meaning the return-to-tank line had to be very short and I was worried about it kinking, so I moved the reg and now the braided line is a bit long. I might still trim it down, but one problem is that the Plazmaman plenum angles down at the throttle body, so these hoses actually need a bit of length to 'dip-down' underneath. They are longer than needed for now, I was going to see how they went with the plenum on and then shorten if need be. Hope that all makes sense haha, it's a bit hard to put into words

Ahh dude. Does not inspire me with confidence about leaving my car there Will keep an eye out for you mate, it's my general area.

I agree. I think the main difference between Stao's car making ~320rwkw and others making around ~370rwhp is the fact that his tuner knows the car well and knows it has forged pistons. I know that my tuner is not comfortable running 20psi into my engine, and most tuners will setup boost controllers to bleed off boost up top not hold it to redline. Simple things like that, plus maybe give or take 5-10rwkw for differences in dynos. Very easy to see where results are differing. I personally think that if you have been for a ride in a car with a HG turbo then you will know they are capable. Even if there is something not quite right yet in the setup, you can feel the potential is there. Hard to put into words on a forum, but I think most if not all the people who have had the luxury of being in a variety of cars with multiple setups will agree with me.