Hanaldo

I love it just sitting on the runners without even a bolt in it! Replacing nearly all the engine hoses with some very nice fuel hose as well, very nice looking stuff, it will look great when it's back together I'm a bit weary about the internals, but when I did a compression test I got between 180-182psi across all 6 cylinders, so it's a very healthy motor. I don't drive around on high boost a lot either, I usually drive at gate pressure (14psi) which would only be about 300-320rwhp. I only push the little red button when I'm taking mates for a ride or trying to have a bit of fun I was hoping my braided hose and fittings would turn up today, but no luck Will be working on the car again tomorrow, see if I can get the washer bottle relocation done and the injectors.

Haha ahhh yes, I remember that. What a fun job it was You'll get there though, it definitely is possible. If you can, get a second person to help you, makes it a fair bit easier with another set of hands.

Ah, wish I'd found you about a month ago haha Already bought the fittings and things though, I can get the fittings welded on through my mates work so that won't cost me anything. Thanks for the offer though mate. Out of interest, why are you selling them?? Haha cheers man, if I ever meet the jerk that stole my HKS badge Ima poke him in the eye Jokes lol, I have been thinking about getting one made up to replace it though... Looks like a cheap copy without it, nobody will ever appreciate my taste Lol.

I think you mean the timing cover, not the CAS cover. The CAS is the sensor that sits on the right hand side of the timing cover. It's quite simple to do, but you will need to check your timing before and after removing the timing cover as you have to take off the CAS. Easy if you know what you're doing, potentially dangerous if you don't. Rocker covers are very simple, you just undo the bolts holding them down. Nothing tricky with that one. I suggest removing the PCV and masking up the breathers before prepping and painting. Primer isn't exactly necessary if you prep it all correctly otherwise, but I would still suggest priming it anyway. It certainly doesn't hurt to do so. Piping and intercooler piping is also quite easy. If you have aftermarket stainless or aluminium piping, make sure you sand it back well and primer it as often they put a coating on it to protect the finish which will cause your paint to peel off. If you are painting the stock piping, make sure you clean it really well with wax and grease remover to ensure no oily residue from sitting in a 20+yr old engine bay ruins your finish. Just prep prep prep prep prep and be patient with it and it will come out fine

Rubbish, that's all in the tune not the hardware. My mechanic builds 500hp+ RB motors regularly and always gets them engineered, they pass the emissions tests no problems.

I wouldn't blame the tuners around here in the sense that the tune itself is bad, but one thing I can say about a lot of Perth workshops is they don't go the extra mile to diagnose your car. My current tuner and my last tuner are both the same, they are more than willing to help if I'm telling them what I want done but they don't have much to say if it doesn't work as expected. I guess that's fair enough too, they are busy people, but I see the likes of Jez and Trent on here helping people out left right and center and you can tell it translates into their work. I might give Garage 101 a go if my next tune doesn't have any luck, but unfortunately they are a bit far away from me, can't trailer the car there for the next tune. Looking forward to seeing how it goes though, I'll update when I have a result.

Yehh I'm quite annoyed that it won't fit, I love that thing. Would have gone so well with the new plenum and other shiny bits. I'm currently talking to Brad at Pro Fab to see if we can come up with a solution, but this is how it sits: It really is in the way by quite a lot. Will see if Brad has any ideas anyway, if anyone can come up with a solution then it's him Anyway, might as well do a bit of an update. Stuffed around yesterday for a bit but didn't really accomplish anything, but as of right now this is how things are looking. Bonnet is off for ease of access: My mate looking a little enthusiastic. We jacked up the car to save our backs, the damn engine sits at about thigh-height otherwise. This toolbox now has about 200hp: Seriously though, everything is apart: While we were removing things I decided the stock heat shield looked like utter rubbish, and as a 6Boob manifold is a little out of my price range just yet, I gave it a lick of paint to at least hide it away better: Dummy fitting the fuel rail and plenum: Fuse box is obviously in the way, so we removed the stock windscreen washer bottle and moved the fuse box over as much as possible: Mounted the Sard regulator: Aaaand finally when I got frustrated, I thought I'd see how the new valley cover looks: The rocker covers are disgusting I know, as soon as the plenum and rail are on I'll be getting the covers off and cleaning them up a bit to get them ready for the -10 fittings and some powdercoating. In our excited state to get started on the plenum, we forgot all about checking the base timing so we could install the new carbon timing cover which I'm a bit annoyed at myself about, but oh well. Yesterday we went and picked up all the hoses and things that we need, also picked up a universal washer bottle that sits wider than it does deep and doesn't have a filler neck. Going to mount it in the same position as the stock one, in the wheel well under the battery tray, but making a bracket for it has so far been a pain in the farkin ass. I think I'm just gonna go buy some ally flat bar which would make it a lot easier. I was hoping to have the injectors installed by now, but a bit worryingly they sit quite loosely in the fuel rail. I bought them with the 11mm top caps to suit the 11mm fuel rail, and having measured both of them with SnapOn vernier calipers, they are both the correct sizes. But the top cap was very easy to get into the fuel rail, and it wobbles around a little bit. Not a lot, but enough to make me question whether it is sealing properly. Comparing it to the Power Enterprise injectors in the stock rail, they also wobble a little bit but they were at least firm to get in and out. So not sure what is going on there. I'm also still waiting for my Speedflow fittings and braided hose to arrive, so couldn't plumb up the fuel rail just yet either but that's ok. Really as it is we just need to get the bracket done for the washer bottle, change the fuel filter, clean things up a bit while the plenum is off, and then the Plazmaman should be ready to go on. Having dummy fitted it, it's a bit tight trying to get the bolts in but everything lines up perfectly and the plenum came with all the fittings and bolts necessary, and the stock throttle cable fits so it's a very easy install.

Bah, well after spending all evening pulling things apart and trying to fit this plenum it has resulted in yet more disappointment. My $400 catch can will not fit with the plenum, it sits just in front of the throttle body leaving no room for any cooler piping. Devastated

Definitely talk to your tuner about it, with my previous HG turbo my first tuner was very willing to help me out and would only charge me $100 per session for dyno time. It's just unfortunate that it didn't work out and I ended up going to another tuner; although looking back the improvement in power is probably because of the change of dyno not the tuner.

Do them yourself? Easy as hell, rotors take less than 10 minutes per corner, if you're doing rotors then pads take an additional 2 minutes per corner, and HEL braided lines are very very easy as well, although you will need to bleed your system. Could do all four corners in less than 2 hours, allowing time for messing around if it's your first time. Better than paying some workshop $200-$300 to do it all.

Yeh just buy a Z-Tune bonnet for a GTR and you'll be sweet

If you get good stuff, my mate has a 700kw XR6T with silicon joiners.

That's where mine is, no problems at all

Erm...

Have been running the EL wagon on 91 for about 8 years now. Never had a problem with blocked injectors.

I think he means hold the gasket to the flange and look inside the dump. If any of the lumps can be seen sticking out beyond the gasket then they may be worth grinding off.

Lol, well for started a 3.1L engine has a MUCH different dyno chart than a 2.5L, there is no possibility of hiding that. Not too mention Stao is perfectly happy to take his potential customers for a ride in his car. No, I don't think that is a fair suggestion at all.

I also wonder about this, but Stao has been more than helpful with my problems so far so I give him the benefit of the doubt. I was really just wondering whether the forged pistons in his car mean his car is being tuned more aggressively compared to standard engine cars, hence the higher results. In any case, it's unfair for me to judge the turbo as it is on my car until I've had a chance to get it back on the dyno without any problems.

I think the possible issue with the IC isn't so much that it isn't cooling the air, but more a potential pressure drop. Have you done a pressure drop test on your intake or at least across the core?

Not just yet, but I decided that now is as good a time as any to make sure I have a setup that can handle it when I do want to go E85. Still not available at the pump here with no sign of that changing any time soon, but I might start buying it in 200L drums.

Thanks mate, me too!

I think you've hooked it up backwards, but couldn't quite understand how you've done it. It should go fuel filter>front of fuel rail>fuel rail exit>side port on Sard FPR>bottom port on FPR to return line>fuel tank. When you say smaller tube on the fuel rail, I think you are referring to the exit. Not quite sure though.

Thanks Julz. I'm still on the hunt for a carbon triple gauge pod if you wanna get rid of yours?

Haha got that right. It's money that could have been spent on illicit drugs and alcohol though, so I took the 'healthy' addiction Thanks mate, I completely agree. Have been keeping an eye on your build as well, hope you get it done mate

The new FNT version should be more than that too, around 300rwkw. Stao made 320rwkw@20psi. Will see how my car goes when it gets retuned without the ECU errors sometime this month, after the Plazmaman, HKS fuel rail, and ID1000's go on. Hopefully getting that done this weekend so will see where things are at next week, hopefully a retune will be sooner rather than later.