Hanaldo

Haha well yeh, that's usually the done thing? Yehhh this is what I would like to do, unfortunately I can't justify the cost

I made 392.8rwhp on a hub dyno with correction enabled. On a Dyno Dynamics roller dyno I made 318rwhp@18psi, so very similar to you and Luke. Yes, unfortunately it's looking that way...

Forgot about another couple of cosmetic items still to go on: Thanks mate, it's been a lot of headaches and stuffing around, but it's really come a long way. In fact, I just looked up my dyno result from when the car was NA... An almighty 138.6rwhp So I've increased power by about 283.4%

Looks similar to mine and Luke's results... Where are you based?

They are still designed to let your feet breathe. In any case, I've had leather boots before and they are no different. It doesn't make any difference for me what the boots are made from, this has been going on for a good 6 seasons now and in that time I've been through about 8 pairs of different boots. It's not just my feet that get smashed, my boots never last longer than a season either. They ALWAYS burst at the seams on the side Yeh it doesn't happen to everyone. Also just to be clear, my feet don't get soaked, they sweat quite minimally. It's more the sharp changes of direction that smash my toes against my boots than the rubbing and moisture. Sounds like we have a similar playing style My boots fit ok, but the problem for me is no one makes a wide boot without increasing the length. In fact I can only wear Adidas because they have a wider design, no other boot fits me. Nike is the worst. This means I have good side to side movement, but stopping and sprinting means my toes slide forward a little bit and get pummeled. I've tried the thinner under-sock, and the blister pads, neither of which work very well. The inner socks make the boots too tight against the sides of my feet, while the blister pads last about 5 minutes before the sharp changes of direction just crumple them up and push them into the middle of my foot and become incredibly uncomfortable. Same goes for band-aids, tape, etc. Your idea of cutting the bottom of the football socks off sounds very intriguing, this could be what I need. I'll give this a go at training on Thursday

This pretty much brings us up to date now, with that tune happening on the 4th of December last year. Since then, after a few weeks of research and discussions, I have hopefully sorted out the problem by sending the ECU off to Matt at NIStune Developments to reprogram my board with a Stagea image, thus eliminating the traction control in the ECU. However I won't be sure until it goes back in for a retune, which will hopefully be this month... AFTER the latest mods. One thing I have done since then is get Brad (Risking) at Pro Fabrication Race Engineering to fabricate a custom combined catch can/radiator overflow bottle which turned out like this: This is where the car is at now. I decided about a month or so ago that I was just done with the stock intake plenum. The original plan was to get a copy Greddy plenum, however after reading up on FFP's I was concerned about losing potentially more mid-range with the shorter runners. So you may be able to guess what I decided on from here. It literally rocked up about 10 minutes ago And the 72mm throttle body to go with: Originally I was going to try to use the Plazmaman alongside the stock fuel rail and my current injectors, but after talking to Matt (34GeeTeeTee on here) about his setup and looking at his pictures, I decided to purchase his spare HKS fuel rail. To go with that I also bought a Sard fuel pressure regulator, a Turbosmart fuel pressure gauge, and decided to upgrade my Power Enterprise 660's to Injector Dynamics 1000's; all of which rocked up a few days ago: So now I'm hoping the braided hose and Speedflow fittings I ordered will arrive this week sometime so that all of the above can go on this weekend

The car went like Powercruise 2011 like this as well. Again Powercruise proved somewhat of a catalyst and I was again inspired to chase more power. At around this time, Hypergear had just finished developing their new ATR43G3 with FNT technology, with Stao netting a very respectable 330rwkw@23psi with full boost at around 4500rpm. I decided this was the turbo for me, however I was no longer interested in stealth and asked Stao to ditch the internal gate and convert the rear housing to support an external wastegate. While that was going on, I purchased a Turbosmart Comp-Gate40 to suit the turbo and two 7psi internal springs to get me my base gate pressure of 14psi. Around late October 2011, the turbo finally rocked up and I got stuck into installing it: The old ATR43G2 vs the new ATR43G3: My first impression of the size of the thing was that there was no way in hell it was going to fit in the stock location. But Stao assured me that it would so I forged ahead. And indeed, with a 15mm spacer on the manifold, it did fit... Just. I finished up the install and this is how it all looked. I had taken the chance of having everything apart to replace some dodgy old hoses and spent a bit of money just cleaning things up some more: I managed to get it finished just in time for the tune, unfortunately it resulted in yet more disappointment: The power seems about right for the boost level, however it's the missing mid-range and response that had me annoyed this time. I am getting full boost at around 5000rpm which is a bit lame on the street, and I'm down about 30rwkw through the mid-range. After speaking with my tuner, I discovered there was some trouble with the NIStune and stock ECU. Basically when the engine was installed in my car, we decided to delete the TCS to save having to wire it up as well as the fact I wasn't really interested in traction control. Little did I know at the time that this was going to wreak havoc with the stock ECU causing it to pull fuel and timing, meaning my tuner had to disable my VCT to prevent the car from detonating. So this explains the missing mid-range and response. On the bright side, the external wastegate sounds amazing

Circa around February 2011 and I went over to Europe for 6 weeks for a holiday. The trip gave me a break from the car and when I got back I finally decided to get the car in to a different tuner. Without changing a thing, this was the result: So now I was a bit happier. Next up, Rising Sunday was on the calender. I decided this needed a few more improvements with the car, so I ditched the hideous G-Max's and purchased some bronze 18" Wolf S36's with the same staggered widths but a much better offset and fitment. This also included some KU36's to improve my track times: I then went for a change of colour with the brake calipers and decided to go with a nice dark blue: I also thought the car needed more low, so I dropped the coilovers about 2.5" lower than in the above pictures, which of course required rolling the guards. Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures as I only finished at 3am, still kicking myself about that. To paint the picture for you, the car was now so low that I couldn't fit my iPhone4 under my front bar and the rear rims were tucking inside the guards, giving me -4 degrees of camber on each side. It was a risky drive to Rising Sunday which included lots of scraping around corners and wheels rubbing on guard lining

So now it was about the time of Powercruise here in Perth and I had entered my car for the first time. This proved to be a bit of a catalyst and I was inspired to chase more power. After a bit of research I purchased a Hypergear ATR43G2 with the .64 rear, some Power Enterprise 660cc injectors, and a Z32 AFM: And the car went back in for a retune. This is where the first disappointment came: Expecting at least 350rwhp as I had seen numerous cars making with this turbo over on the East coast, I was disappointed to say the least. The car went back in for a retune a few times over the coming months to try things such as dropping the exhaust, raising the boost, etc. Even tried getting Hypergear to send me out a replacement turbo and got that retuned, but nothing really worked and I eventually got a bit pissed off and left the car as is for awhile.

Car stayed like that for a few months, with this being one of a few small improvements: I also tried making my own custom heat shield for the pod filter, which turned out like this: And I bought a pair of GTR bov's to replace the stock one:

Fast forwarding about a month and a lot of frustration/anger/annoyances/etc. and my car was finally done. The workshop had put the car on the dyno to check it's AFR's and it came back with 219rwhp@11psi. I was happy with that considering it was dead stock and still wearing the NA 2.5" cat-back. This is how things were looking: Sure beats the shit outta this: So first things first, I immediately went and got local welding wizard Kermit to make me a 3" cat-back and install my Venom cat, with this work of art being the outcome: I then went about installing the rest of my previously purchased parts: Fast forwarding again, the last thing I had installed was the NIstune board, which resulted in this: Again, was happy at the time but looking back I think this is about where the problems started to shine through. More on that later, but this is how the car was looking at the time:

Those pictures were taken right after the panels went back on and the paint was still to fresh to buff. But a few days after I finished that job, I got the call from the workshop to bring the car in. By this stage the car had been off the road for about 2.5 months waiting for that call, so I was a bit excited. Now as the donor car was a front-end right off, there were a few things that I needed to supply for the conversion. This included FMIC, radiator, fuel pump, boost controller, and possibly some other stuff that I've forgotten. I thought I had some pictures of this stuff but I can't find it anywhere, so I'll just write up a list. I decided on a Greddy M-Spec front mount, AGP triple core alloy radiator, Walbro 550hp fuel pump, Greddy Profec II EBC, etc. I also needed a new clutch as the R34 GTT box is obviously a pull-type while my old RB20 gearbox had a push-type, so I went with an Exedy Sport Ceramic Racing kit. While the car was at the shop I went on a bit of a spending spree, so by this stage sitting in my room I had: Sparco Torino II driver and passenger seats. Recaro bottom mount rails to suit. JJR 3" bellmouth dump/front pipe. 5" body Venom metal cat. NIStune board. HEL braided brake lines. BC Racing BR series coilovers. DBA slotted rotors and Feroda brake pads for the back. Splitfire coilpacks. Greddy gauge pod. Ark Multi Functional Display Aaand again, possibly some stuff I've forgotten by now. *EDIT* Found my pictures:

So, 2010 is I guess when things started to get a bit more interesting. The mod-bug had well and truly bitten me by this stage and I had been entertaining blissfully ignorant thoughts of building an NA beast, or an RB26 transplant, high compression turbocharged engine; you know, the sorts of brilliant ideas that frequently pop up in the NA section on here that get posted by kids with an active imagination and not a clue about cars. I was one of those guys, and I may in-fact have posted on here a couple of threads that make me cringe today. Anyway, some time in early 2010, the car developed a few not-so-pleasant noises. I took the car to my mechanic to learn that my gearbox was on it's way out, thrust bearing was shot, 2nd and reverse were starting to crunch, etc. I decided that perhaps now was as good a time as any to take some action with the car and I started asking around at local workshops about turbocharging my car. Long story short, I eventually decided to import a written-off R34 GTT from Japan and begin the conversion process. The workshop I was going through found me a coupe with front end damage with about 60xxxkms on the clock. This included the engine, gearbox, driveshaft, diff, dash pieces, and a few other bits and pieces that would be useful; so I went ahead and put the deposit down to get the ball rolling. Now while I was waiting around for the donor car to arrive in Oz, I decided I wanted to fix up the paint on a few panels on the car. The front-bar needed a respray, the rear bar had some cracks from the previous owner, the bonnet and front guards were pitted all over not really sure what by, and the eyelids had a few stone chips here and there. So I rubbed it back, primered it up and then rubbed it back some more: And sadly enough, this is probably the toughest my car has ever looked : And after a few days of trial and error teaching learning to use a compressor and spray gun, this was the result:

Nah man, Adidas F50 MiCoaches http://news.adidas.com/GLOBAL/adizero-f50-powered-by-micoach/s/3353ae67-c34c-4b23-a446-516696142f97 I get my running data straight from them, I ran 12.3km in our friendly on Sunday (in 42 degrees) and 14.7km in the friendly we had last week Thursday.

Hey all, I'm hoping this thread isn't too hard to write as this 'build' started about 3 years ago, so some stuff has probably slipped my mind. I'll try to include as much detail as I can up to where the car is now, but I really just wanted to do this thread so I could document what I've done to the car, and maybe some of you will find it interesting. I'll try to use as many of the good photos that I have that were taken by RM Photography (Rhys Maylam), but a lot of the things are just crappy photos taken with my camera phone. So to get it started I'll give a quick bit of background. At the start of 2009 I bought my 34 GT, pretty much stock as a rock engine wise excluding pod-filter, 2.5" exhaust, extractors, blah blah. Had a Top Secret front bar, 18" (staggered 9.5" on the back and 8.5" on the front) G-Max Enigma wheels, and super low king springs. Also had R33 GTST brake calipers and rotors. Me being the absolute sucker kid that I was, I also believed the sellers stories about a heavy duty clutch and some other stuff that turned out to be bullshit. Live and learn eh, gotta love being a kid. Anyway, scrounged up these photo's of how it looked then: Car stayed pretty much like that for the first few months; I spent a bit of money on little things like HID's, painting the engine cover and interior pieces and the brake calipers, some completely unnecessary gauges, Isotta aluminium racing pedals, DBA 4000 slotted rotors and EBC green stuff pads on the front, and a GTR spoiler: And that is pretty much how it stayed for the rest of 2009.

Hahaha I thought you'd like this I wear football socks and get new boots every season. I've got 5 pairs of boots that all do this. Some people get it some don't, common issue with long distance runners. I run ~15kms a game. Don't wear my MiCoaches at training so not sure what I do at training but it must be similar. This is pretty much what the podiatrist said. Not so much that I'm wearing the wrong size boot, but I wear a size 11 normal shoe and a size 11 boot, which fit perfectly. But when you run, your feet swell a little bit. Thing is, I have weird feet. They are oddly wide. So I have to wear a size up as it is not to accommodate their length but their width. So wearing an additional size up would mean I'm wearing a boot that is two sizes too long. I'm not sure if you've ever tried kicking a ball with clown shoes on but it's not easy.

Nope, now I can't read it at all. I read this part. And now my reply is probably pretty useless, because I doubt the rest of your post was in relation to your ill-use of caps lock. Honestly mate, my first post was helping you. If you don't understand how these things work then you're not going to be able to find and fix problems. It seems pretty clear to me that you don't understand because you are asking a question of something so simple. So do us, and yourself, a favour by reading about how these things work. A Skyline isn't inherently different from any other turbocharged/intercooled engine.

Oh, well in that case, let's start with this: My link After you've read that, then read Messiah's post, then refer back to my first link. After all, can't run before we can walk

Here you go: My link

I have, but they weren't very helpful. He explained the causes but didn't provide me with any solutions.

Hey all, So this is a somewhat delicious topic, but I am getting sick of the constant pain of runners feet. As a bit of a quick background, I play amateur football (soccer) pretty competitively, and I do a fair bit of running as part of that. I hit the gym every day except Sat/Sunday, so I'm relatively fit albeit pre-season. I figured somebody on here surely must have similar problems so it would be worth asking. Basically what I'm talking about is this: The black toenails, the blood blisters and normal blisters, calluses, etc. That second picture shows pretty much all of the above on my one toe, while that first photo is generally what I have to deal with every week. I run myself into the ground at training and on game days and always go home looking like this. Calluses crack so bad that they bleed like that first photo, I often develop blisters on my blisters, calluses and toenails develop blood blisters underneath, sometimes I get toenails just coming off, etc. Pretty I know. What I wanted to ask is, has anyone experienced similar problems? What have you done about it?

I think that's exactly what Simon said, albeit in a slightly more harsh way. Was a fair enough comment for me, the manifolds look like they have been designed for a tight budget, which they have. The welds aren't perfect but they look strong enough. Really I think they look exactly as Simon said, they'll do the job but they aren't pretty about it.

Ah wait, just had a closer look. Is the largish hose that crosses over the engine just next to the bov via the little piece of hard pipe that screws onto the valley cover the pipe I'm looking for?

I'm personally using the ARK MFD which works very very well. Unfortunately it costs a bit more than this one and does require additional sensors for the oil temp/pressure.

Forgot to reply to the above posts, thanks a lot for your help guys ^^ Plenum has been finished and was sent out yesterday, have been told to expect delivery early next week some time One more thing I'm unsure about though, what size hose/fitting do I need for the IAC valve to the intercooler? I had been following the thread in the DIY section, but it is for the R33 version and he used a -10 hose and fitting. I just had a look at my IAC and it is obviously very different from the R33 one, and there is no -10 size hose that I can see anywhere. There are the three little hoses, one of which goes to the throttle body, is that the one I need? Or am I looking in the wrong place?? What about the other two hoses? I can see one goes down into the inlet runners, I'm assuming that is coolant? And the other one disappears off somewhere, I can't see where. What do I do with those?