Hanaldo

What about smaller gate options, 38/40mm??

Yeh the AEM's are self-calibrating man, as 89CAL said. My cruise AFR's are usually between 15.5-17.5 depending on load, there's still no way I'd be getting the same fuel economy on 12's as I would on 17's. I don't boost a lot on the street, second gear and I'm breaking every speed limit in my area, not too mention cops can probably hear me in Kalgoorlie lol. My accel. enrichment isn't too bad either, goes from 16's/17's to about 13.5/14's at the most. I also still have a lean pop on idle despite the wideband reading anywhere between 10-15, usually it is 17.5 to not even registering. There's no carbon build up on my rear bumper, no backfiring unless I ramp it up and then back off quickly, and even then it's quite rare. Nothing changed at all when the gauge started reading differently, surely if my car is actually running at above 14 at all times then it would drive differently?

Yeh I'll give it a go if need be, just thought there may be something off the shelf. Speaking of bov's and high boost pressures, my GTR bov is fluttering a fair bit with the G3 turbo. It's ok under lightish load, but full boost flutters quite a lot. Have I maxed it's flow capabilities? I do still have the other bov, would it be worthwhile installing the twin setup or no?

This is how I understood it as well, perhaps in a bit less detail though Thanks mate. Does anyone know where I could get a flange from for the bov? I'm not too keen on just welding the bov to the intake pipe, makes it a hell of a job if I need to remove or replace the damn thing later. A search only provides me with results for adapter flanges for aftermarket bov's like the HKS SSQV.

Have been reading along since you started, just unable to comment as I haven't got a clue. Gotta say man, hats off to your persistence. I can imagine how nerve wrecking it would be to be doing the assembly of your engine for the first time, so the fact that you've pressed on with it and not payed someone else to do it despite not getting any help from anyone here is quite impressive. I do hope it all goes well for you, hopefully those dog hairs don't cause any trouble

Quick question for those with FFPs and stock bovs, where are you relocating your bov to and how did you do it? I'm currently thinking about what I'm going to do with my stock GTR bov. Ideally I'd like to keep it, but if it's too much hassle/cost then I am considering just ditching it. As I understand it, the closer to the TB the better, yes? What about flanges, where can I get a weld on flange?

Yeh same guy I bought mine from... Coinkydink?

Did you buy it from the guy on eBay? And a replacement sensor shouldn't be that much? 80 bucks or so. Don't replace it yet though, rule out everything else first. After a quick search I've found people with similar problems to us who turned out to have a poor connection somewhere in the wiring. I suggest testing the sensor first. If it does what it should then the sensor's not stuffed, it will be a problem somewhere else.

Nahhh, I open my ears and listen to the glory Then when they hand me the dyno printout, I squint my eyes and ask where the hell the power is

I'd factor in more than 1k, could wrack that up in one dyno session when something goes wrong lol.

Yeh the UEGO maxes at 18.5. It will go to that in open air though. To test it, spray some brake cleaner on a cloth and cover cover the sensor with the cloth. It should go full rich to 10 and stay there. If it goes back to lean then it's stuffed.

This. The thing is better than the bible, if I need answers then I look there

I made a post about this in the Wideband thread in the FI section; I think I have the same or similar problem. My UEGO reads around 10-11 on idle and 12's/13's while cruising, sometimes lower. I'm 99% sure it's not the tune though, as the car drives exactly the same as always and there is no way I'd still be getting 550kms to a tank if my cruise AFR's were 12's. So I think it is either the sensor that has failed, OR there is a bad connection somewhere. I haven't got around to pulling out the sensor or checking connections yet, so I'll let you know what I find when I do.

This bit yes. This bit no.

135 is a little bit tired, but I wouldn't worry about that too much. However you're correct about cylinder 4, there's a bit much variation there. Can you get a wet test done? Would stay away myself.

I looked back through the pictures and it looks like some of the wastegate ports are ok. My comment was in relation to this pic directly: The angle the port is mounted looks like it is ~45 degrees to the direction of flow from the runners, so the exhaust has to change direction. The Greddy manifold you posted has the port at 90 degrees to the direction of flow, which will work (that's how mine is mounted and it's fine) but the best angle would be symmetric to flow, like this:

Also, are you able to change the way the wastegate port is mounted? The current design looks like it would cause huge boost control issues, the exhaust has to flow backwards from its direction of travel...

Voting no on the engine cover, would be a shame to cover up Chris' work like that. Have always thought the Neo motor looked poxy with that cover though...

White smoke means burning coolant. Would start with a compression test.

I don't know what more you are expecting though, you're not going to get a nice CNC'd collector on a good quality manifold for 300 bucks.

Didn't give any reason for any of it, just said that's what it failed for.

Also just thought I should comment here with my experience from today. Mates R31 got stickered for a loud exhaust so we put the stock exhaust back on and took it to ANG. The bloke failed him for too high an idle (800 rpm), hole in rear parcel shelf, different coloured dash lights, small tear in seat-belt (fair enough), and stove-top tail lights. DO NOT take your car to this bunch for inspections, this guy is a farkin miserable twat.

Better read it again then mate, BW make fantastic high quality turbos. It's only the EFR range that had some problems, though those appear to be a thing of the past now too.

This. Took me half an hour, including diagnosis of why the car wouldn't start when I reversed the polarities Agree with running the tank near empty first though. Arms get real damn itchy immersed in petrol

Yeh I dunno about that, the whole thing is suss to me. I mean, we know what claims the owner made about the car that were obviously untrue. What else could he be leaving out? It may just be me, but I wouldn't put (a claimed) 40k into a car and then put it up for auction starting at $1 with no reserve...