Hanaldo

Right, time for this threads yearly revival. I'm looking into getting one of these plenums for my 34, but I've read through all 13 pages and didn't find any conclusive answers to the differences between the motors. So. Has anyone installed one of these on a Neo? If not then I guess I will have to be a pioneer, but thought I'd ask first. From what I can tell, the stock TB is out of the question, so I'm going to need an aftermarket one, correct? That's fine, given I've done away with TCS already. Any advice on brand, where to buy from, etc? What else do I need? Gasket, recommended place to buy?

That Buddy Club racing one might be it ^^^ I like the colour and the shape. Though like you, I don't have any other Buddy Club stuff on my car... I like the Nismo one as well, except for the colour. Silver will stand out too much on my rocker covers, which isn't what I'm aiming for. Not too mention Nismo is just a little on the expensive side... Thanks for the suggestions guys, it does help. Any chance those of you who own the items you are suggesting have a photo of it on your car??

Haha well Stao made 320rwkw @23psi, so it should crack 300 on 20psi. Biggest thing for me is getting my VCT working, cos god damn this turbo is laggy without it...

Haha as picky as it sounds, I don't like the red. I'm being unusually fussy with this part of my build lol. I'm probably gonna have to compromise at some stage, but I don't really want to spend upwards of $100 on a cosmetic item that I don't really like the cosmetics of...

Yeh I'm 50/50 on the looks, I do think it looks tough but at the same time I think it looks like something you would find in a Hot4's magazine... I don't think it is very light, the only place I could find that gives its weight said it is 0.8kg. 800 grams is farkin heavy for something that size if you ask me lol.

Ah yeah right, jeez I'll never get my head around all this lol. Have read all the NIStune documentation 4 times now, still know nothing I don't get any TP cut, the sensor doesn't seem to affect drive-ability at all. But neither did the TCS code. I just want to get rid of the code before I take it back in for a retune because I haven't actually ever had my car tuned without a DTC which is a big no-no in tuning 101 haha. Until I can get it tuned with absolutely no errors, I can't be sure that my setup is working properly.

Hey all, I'm in the process of getting my engine covers painted, and just to finish off the aesthetics side of things, I want to get a nice oil filler cap. However I can't really find one that suits my tastes. I like the forged/billet aluminium appearance, so far the Blitz is the closest I have found: But I'm still not sure on the shape, it's a bit too ricey for me I think. Maybe if I could find a picture of it on an RB25 I could make up my mind, but I can't really find a good one. So does anyone have any ideas for oil filler caps that I might like? Doesn't have to be brand name. Just a nice subtle shape in this billet aluminium look or perhaps carbon fibre as I have a lot of other carbon fibre in the engine bay. Thanks for any help, Martin.

I lolled when I saw it was you who wrote this. Spot on, this is the reason I kept mine and went to external gate on the larger turbo. OP said he is worried about it as a street driven car though, so I sort of assumed he wouldn't be taking it to the track all that often... Well it could be the case, but I still wouldn't say it is NIStune related. Remember that NIStune only lets you tune stock parameters, if there is a problem with your setup (ie. the Z32 ecu not working properly, etc.) then it's hard to tune around it. You may have had a problem with the Z32 ECU causing trouble, but that's no fault of the NIStune. But I'm assuming a lot here about your setup, so I am possibly incorrect. Carry on

Well that is how my TP Load Recovery is setup, but TP isn't related to the boost sensor is it? TP is just MAF lookup * injection multipler / RPM.

+1. I wouldn't expect any gains. However, for a new car it's not a bad idea to just do a power run to make sure whoever tuned it previously did a good job of it. Power runs are usually about $100.

Doesn't sound related to NIStune mate. OP, I'd suggest not getting an EBC. I never used mine at all when I had my internally gated Hypergear, as the internal gates work better when your actuator is as close to your desired boost pressure as possible. I was running 20psi minimum, so there wasn't much point winding more boost in. You can also adjust gain and others to get a couple hundred rpm better response, just up to you if you think the price of the EBC is worth that.

Haha that's ok Jez, I'll check tonight. I think it's just flags on the Neo though; Pete also mentioned the resistor fix so if I can't switch feedback off then I'll give that a go.

Is it as simple as that though? Doesn't that just stop the ECU flagging it, it doesn't stop it from affecting the tune if it's doing so? Otherwise I'm set haha.

Right, all sorted. This was spot on man. Turns out pin 31 (ignition power supply) had been pushed in a little bit, so it wasn't making contact anymore. I've pulled the pin out and replaced it, and everything is running perfectly now Now just have to sort out my boost sensor error code and then I'll get it back on the dyno to see if it makes a difference. Yeh, well a PFC would give me the exact same problems as I was having before, so the reprogrammed NIStune is a much better option if it works. I would love to get the Vipec or Link, but realistically at $3500 it's not something I can afford to go out and do just willy nilly. I'd have to crunch some serious numbers, and then I don't even know if it will solve anything, I might find I still have problems and am no better off apart from having a fancy ECU.

I have heard of drive-ability problems caused by having too small/too large breathers, but I never had any problems when I was using my old D1 Spec 'catch-can' (as if it ever caught anything). Am using a Pro Fabrications unit now, Brad installed 5/8th fittings on it on my request. For anyone interested, I found the fittings I need through speedflowdirect.com. Earls part numbers are 403-10 for the 90 deg, and 999-10-D for the weld in. Helpful blokes there, and much better prices than my local Pirtek or Earls

Yeh I've been speaking to Matt as well, he said his car actually ran better with the Stagea image given there was no bog down from TCS or ABS. So it should definitely work. Correct, no spark. Have taken out a spark plug just to be 100% sure, and there's nothing. The coilpacks are not getting power, I tested that as well, so it's not failed coilpacks. I never got round to checking the ECU for damage yesterday, was out all day. Doing that now, so will update if I find anything. Side-note* Biggest thumbs up for Matt and NIStune Developments, he didn't charge me a cent for the reprogramming and has been a massive help in trying to diagnose my problems both before and after the reprogramming. Top bloke.

Yeh its not busted completely, it still works. It just gives crazy readings as I said in my first post. So is that more likely to be a dodgy gauge or a dodgy sender?

Yeh don't get me wrong, I wasn't spraying a hose in the engine bay. Was using a cloth with degreaser on it, but unfortunately there was oil near the gauge connection and I accidentally got a little trigger happy. The engine wasn't hot and I didn't start it until the next day to make sure everything was dry. Can I test with a multimeter? What am I testing for, resistance/voltage? Thanks mate.

Haven't got it started yet, gonna have a look at the pins on the ecu, make sure nothing was damaged during postage.

Hey all, This isn't audio or security, but there is no general electrical section so I thought this is probably where all the electrical gurus are hanging out Basically a few months ago I cleaned my engine bay after an oil spill, and my Shadow Pro oil temperature gauge has an inline plug to connect the temp sensor to the rest of the harness. Well this connection got water/degreaser inside of it (not a lot, maybe a drop), and the gauge no longer works. It turns on and everything, but it reads like the oil is warming up at an alarming rate, and will then usually sit above 110 degrees occasionally jumping around to 150 then straight down to 80, back up again, etc. It has happened before, but I unplugged the connection and let it dry overnight and it was fine the next day. Tried it again this time, even used a small piece of paper towel to absorb any moisture around the pins. Also tried using some electrical cleaner. Still doesn't work. So my question is, is there anything I can do or is it fried? Is it more likely to be the sensor that is busted or the gauge itself? Thanks for any help, Martin.

Ok, will reset the timing, thanks guys. Any other things I should be mindful of when doing this? Torque on the CAS bolts, things behind the cover that might fall off and get lost, etc? Haven't needed to remove my cover before, just wanna be sure

This is what I thought I'm all for paying top dollar for a good tune, but... I'd do it if I knew for sure that it would fix all my problems, but at the moment it's a $3500 gamble that I think I'm gonna have to fold on.

Right, so tuner says $3500 to supply, install and tune. Not sure I can justify it, given I don't know 100% it will solve my problems. Might have to just forge ahead with the NIStune, see if I can run up $3500 on retunes everytime it doesn't work

This thread is for me, I've got bags of excuses!

Lol, I don't think I've ever managed to get my tuner on the phone for more than 2 minutes. As I said, don't have a problem with paying for something if the workshop is helping me out. Like my intake pipe. I had the car in there for the turbo install and a tune, Andy was happy to fit me in and gettin car finished, but it would cost me $400 for the pipe. I gave him the go ahead because it wasn't his problem but he was still happy to sort it out for me.