Hanaldo

Way ahead of ya man, my ECU is currently with Matt at NIStune having the R34 image swapped with a Stag image. Shall see how that goes.

Except you've disconnected it from the intake pipe. The intake pipe is under vacuum, so it literally vacuums the vapors out and assists in breathing. I dare say the stock setup would work better than how you have done it.

It depends on what ecu you're using mate. I'm using NIStune, and the lack of traction control is wreaking havoc with the stock computer, making it pull fuel unexpectedly and things like that. Gives me a very rough power curve and makes it very hard to tune. They also didn't wire in my stock boost sensor, they replaced it with my EBC sensor and that's giving the same trouble.

Yeh traction control. Make sure they wire it up. They deleted mine and now it's causing me endless headaches.

Heh, C-Red, same workshop that wired my engine. If you have a Neo motor, tell them you want the TCS enabled!!

They won't help much with internal gates man. I held 20psi just fine with the previous Hypergear setup mind you. You should probably get the same setup as me so I can see how you go with the VIPEC

DTC is diagnostic trouble code. Basically error codes recorded by the ecu.

Yeh that's the Neo 25DE intake... If you have seen any Neo 25DE's without that intake then it wasn't stock.

It could be the bov causing a lot of reverberation? But I'm guessing it's the stock intake pipe, and it's a recently occurring issue, so I doubt it's that. I wouldn't expect it to have much to do with the bov. My money is still on the O2 sensor. Disconnecting it does not necessarily mean it CAN'T be the O2 sensor, because the ECU is still expecting it's feedback. You would have to edit the tune to set the O2 feedback temp very high to effectively rule it out. But then again, I would expect it to be causing more issues at idle/cruise if there was a problem with it, not only at decel. Are there any other issues, apart from the cutting out at high rpm? Does it idle nicely, cruise nicely, etc? This is why I suggest you take it to a tuner. You might be getting a DTC which could be checked through consult. So if you insist on doing it yourself, at least get a consult cable and download ECUtalk or a similar program and check your codes, you might save a lot of time. *EDIT* Just read your O2 sensor is not done up tightly. Speaking from experience, you need to do that up tightly to get it to seal properly. I cross threaded my stock O2 by putting it in when the exhaust was hot, and ended up with a big exhaust leak. I suggest you fix things like that before continuing to diagnose, it's such an easy fix and might be the issue all together.

Post #94, that's the one I just had made: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/385051-pro-fabrications-fabrication/page__st__80 Speak to Brad (Risking)

Yep Can upload video if you want to hear, it sounds better in person though.

Copied from the turbo upgrade thread because I'm lazy

I was thinking at idle, but on second thoughts I think it is still pressurized then anyway.

Does the hose have a filter on it? You'll be sucking in dirt if it doesn't.

Yeh, my one of these is bone dry constantly, never catches anything even with steel wool. Have since bought a Pro Fab item.

If you overlay my graph with Stao's, I'm down about 30kw through the midrange. I haven't seen anyone make the same power as Stao apart from Abe, so I'm expecting about 15-20kw. Biggest thing is response though, if I can find my missing 500-600rpm of response then the turbo will be ALOT better to drive. I don't know how optimistic I am of doing it with the NIStune though. Will find out, but I may have to swap to VIPEC to get the full potential of the turbo.

He doesn't have a license. If he did I would be encouraging him. But imagine if you got cleaned up by a dude with no license messing around with his car.

My turbo makes the power, it's just lacking the mid-range as I don't have VCT working. To be honest it's not that bad on the street, even as laggy as it is. But then I track my car, so I'm content to run around off-boost on the street. You get used to it and learn how to drive it on the street. It's not hard to get the revs up and get it on boost when needed.

Ha, that's cute man. Carry on then, you've clearly got it sorted.

So instead your just out test-driving it?? Get it towed mate, not having a license should be an even bigger reason to get it to a tuner.

The Neo ECU's are a bit different though, they are flagged for O2 feedback across the entire fuel map, every cell has it enabled and it can't be switched off per se. So there is no lower threshold or higher threshold, and they can cause problems at idle and higher rpm if they aren't working properly. Mine was.

Did you mean to say Federal's there?? My Federal 595's out-perform my previous Khumo KU36's in every way. I mean they are no RE055S', but they're a good tyre. Agree with your point though, better quality compound > bigger footprint.

It shouldn't cause any problems. Might restrict a bit of power/response, not too big a deal. Small possibility of melting the substrate if the boost is increased. It's better to replace it I agree, but I wouldn't NOT do the JJR just because you have a stock cat.

Why, because he knows more about these things than you and knows that the HG is the turbo for you?

If your VCT works, it'll be amazing man. I'm hopefully getting mine sorted on Monday.