Hanaldo

Well first of all my Hypergear is externally gated. Secondly, I know what the problems are with my car and they aren't the turbo.

Buy a second hand motor from a Japanese wrecker mate. Building your motor is going to be a massive waste of money for your plans.

Exactly. I really don't understand why people are fussing around with the internally gated Kando turbos when their results aren't great compared to the Hypergears which are working really well IG.

It will show them the engine is has been registered with.

Fair enough, my bad. FWIW, I'm running about 4 degrees camber because that's how low my car is, my camber arms are maxed out. It's not so I can fit the wheels. I need to get adjustable camber arms to take anymore out.

Don't see how he is belittling her hey, he's just pointing out the facts. And not wanting to participate? What is this, school yard fun time? Unless you're here to get attention and approval from other people, why would you care what anyone else thinks? Anyway, welcome to SAU Erin, I'm sure you'll learn lots if you read the info on here what Marc said about your car is pretty accurate, though if you think you can put up with it for 3 years, then enjoy it

This is an outrageous statement, jus' sayin.

Are you referring to me? I'm definitely tucking tyre. I said I'm almost tucking rim. I've only got about 2-3cm of visible tyre under the guard. That's with a 40 tyre profile.

Yes, but when you speak of burning oil I would assume that you are talking about a noticeable loss. I don't know about you, but my engine doesn't use any noticeable amount of oil in the 3000kms until it's next oil change.

+1. Having seen Nick's car in the flesh... The man knows what he is doing

This is exactly what I was saying, why get up in arms about it just because I said it?

No Nothing Not needed Depends A turbo car is still just a car mate. They work exactly the same as any other car. They shouldn't burn oil, they don't need anything special for regular services really, although some people might argue better filters etc. I use the best filters and oils anyway, they're cheap so why not. Things like spark plug gaps will only change when you start modifying etc. The turbo will be hot at the same time as your engine, just think of them as another part of your exhaust.

Do you know that they don't cause any problems?

Yes, sorry, I missed a couple of posts there. I would go 245's or 265's on a 10". You really won't notice the difference in traction between 245's or 265's unless you have quite a lot of power. I'd say it's better to spend the money you save on getting the smaller tyres on a better quality compound tyre. 245 semi-slicks will out-perform 265 street tyres any day... ...Except a wet day

How low is your car? I couldn't fit those wheels on the back of my car. I've got 245/40/18's on 9.5" wheels with +28 offset and they are quite flush, I've got less than 1mm clearance between my guard and my tyre. That's with about 4 degrees of camber. But then I'm almost tucking rim at the back. So I could fit them if my car wasn't so low.

Offset is the measurement used to determine the position of the hub-mounting in relation to the outside of the wheel. So an offset of 0 will mean that the hub-mounting surface is in the centreline of the wheel, a negative offset means the hub mounting surface will be located more towards the inside of the wheel, and a positive offset means it will be located more towards the outside of the wheel. The +xx measurement you see is usually in mm's, so a +35 offset will be 35mm away from the wheel centreline towards the outside of the wheel. Obviously this measurement means different things on a different sized wheel. So a 8" wheel with a +20 offset will not be the same as a 10" wheel with a +20 offset, as the measurement is taken from the centreline.

Who advised against 265's on the rear? On the rear they will be fine depending on how low you want to go etc. It's the front where they have no chance.

Yes, I've got a small piece of insulation material that sits in there.

And how much research have you done into the subject to be able to make claims like that? I've personally seen 3 cars with cheap vented bonnets that had huge issues with over heating. Admittedly none of them in the Z-Tune design so perhaps they don't have the same issues, I don't know.

Gonna assume that's the make and not the width

Haha yeh we used three trolley jacks and an engine hoist to get the SR one out

As I've said in numerous threads now, the cheap bonnets won't have the R&D in them to have a design that doesn't cause problems with low pressure zones. So in actual fact, with cheap bonnets you will most likely notice an increase in temperatures.

Just keep wiggling it. Had similar trouble getting the gearbox off an SR20 once, seemed like no matter what we did it just wouldn't come out. Eventually we got it though. It's a hell of a lot easier with a transmission stand and a hoist

What's wrong with the 20 box?

Ahh cool cool, looks great mate Side note - How good is Luke Fink? Insane talent that guy. Anyway yes, back on topic