Hanaldo

Yes, you can get them from a Turbosmart dealer. My local Turbosmart dealer wanted $110 for one spring. I ended up finding one for $40. It just took me awhile.

If it's mounted on the rear housing, there is no hiding it. Agree with finding springs though, it took me awhile to find the genuine Turbosmart spring I was looking for.

Mate there are so many variables. Comp wheel/turbine blades/size/material, quality of porting, bearings used, etc etc etc. Not all highflows are the same, so unless you tell us the exact specs of the turbo, it will be impossible to say exactly what it can do. The best thing you can do, aside from contacting JPC about it, is to give it to your tuner and ask him to tune it to the turbos efficiency. They will be able to figure out.

*Waits for "how long is a piece of string" comments*

I do agree. And so have countless people since the creation of this site. Which would be why this question has been asked before and there is plentiful information on it.

Definitely respectable, considering the 'V8 Supercars' they offer rides in around Barbs run a 68. *EDIT* Late reply I know, I haven't checked this thread for awhile

Pretty much. It depends on the quality of the seat. All ADR approval means is that it has been inspected and given the ok based on various health/safety/etc requirements. So you can still get some seats that are not ADR approved simply because they have not been inspected; doesn't mean the seat has failed said inspections. On the other hand, it's quite possible that you get a seat that has been poorly constructed and ends up being the cause for quite serious injury in an accident.

Nope, on low boost it wasn't there. Mind you, I only did one run on low boost because I didn't realize it was intermittent.

Hey that was cute, gold star for effort. Next time, did you know that there is this new thing called Google? It's pretty good, has some info, lots of colourful pictures n shit, you'll love it.

I'm 95% sure that it wasn't knock that I heard, but until I'm 110% sure I will treat it like it is. First thing, as you mentioned, I'll change the plugs. It could be the pump failing, it has been rather noisy (more than usual) when driving recently, but I put it down to hot weather = hot fuel. It's a relatively new Walbro, so while it shouldn't be failing there is that possibility. I've got a wideband, so I will know if it is leaning out. It didn't surge, it never surged. It just backfired a bit more than usual. I have a high-flow cat and a big exhaust, so I do get the normal popping and gurgling on decel, but it doesn't usually backfire unless cold. And it was definitely HOT. It also sounded different at idle. It's hard to describe, but I know how my car sounds and it sounded slightly different at idle. Haven't driven it since then so I can't say if it has gone away.

See It's apparently got more than one oil pump though. So should be safe to assume over 18000?

The actuator needs a pressurized line, the bov return is not what you want, you've essentially got two vacuum feeds. You want to get a feed from as close to the turbo outlet as possible. I've got mine coming from a brass nipple tapped into the hot cooler pipe just after the turbo.

Yeh factory is 40mm. I got 57mm studs.

A good external gate with a good boost controller will usually always be more consistent than an internal gate. When the wastegate is purely controlled by the actuator, the only thing you can do with a boost controller is bleed air off. But as you pointed out, it isn't just the boost pressure that opens the wastegate. With an external gate you can apply pressure to the top of the diaphragm to hold the gate shut and hence control boost much better. That was my point when I said he wants an external gate. He said he would prefer to run a softer spring and then use an EBC to control the boost. With an actuator controlled wastegate, that's going to be very hard to achieve. But with an external gate you can use the EBC to hold the gate shut and achieve your target pressure.

You want an external gate.

Yes, I should just clarify for anyone reading that my results are in doubt, it certainly seems that there is more potential within this turbo and my setup. As far as I know, VCT is on. But I'm confused about whether it has been set up properly, or if it is actually turning on at all. In my NIStune file, the VCT recovery RPM is set to 5500 and the cut RPM is set to 5600rpm. As well as the fact that in the gauge display, the light next to the VCT solenoid does not come on at all. So it seems to me that it is not set up properly, which may be as a result of the ECU problems. I wish my tuner had been more clear about what sort of problems the ECU caused him, so I could figure out how to sort it. I would like to drop in and speak to him about it, but he is always very busy. The NIStune guys are not sure how to fix it because they have never seen a similar problem with the codes I am getting. At this stage I just don't know.

Because I don't take my car all the way to redline every time I drive. Take it to 6000rpm in second and I'm pretty much breaking all my local speed limits. I don't even get onto full boost in 3rd before I'm breaking every speed limit in Australia. Hence that powerband up top is not really usable. But it should be fun on the track, will have to see how quickly I can get it on song coming out of corners. And ok that's reasonable, I took your flat line statement a bit more literally haha. I'm making 450nm at 5000rpm, falling to about 400-390 by redline.

Well I don't get full boost until 5000rpm. So I have about 1000rpm of 'usable' power on the street. It is good fun, and I do track my car so I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs out there, but I wouldn't recommend this turbo to anyone for the street. Can you post your dyno sheet, or point me in the direction to where it is already posted? The way you have described your torque curve sounds impossible to me...

You had that split dump/screamer installed didn't you? They probably took it off then, though it wouldn't have been anywhere near fouling...

Done and done, thanks mate I'll head to my local Veales/Repco to see if they stock the v-grooves.

Thanks guys. Is the 7 a good heat range? My current plugs are either a 6 or a 7. Not knowing for sure doesn't help much

Just as it is sort of on topic, can anyone in here tell me the code for the copper plugs I would need? I just spent 40 minutes shaking my head at all the misinformation in the spark plug threads in the General Maintenance section, just want a straight answer from someone who is using copper plugs at a similar power level to me (lets go with 400rwhp; it's debatable at the moment but I'd rather get plugs for that heat range than a lower one). I also gave NGK a call but they were trying to convince me to get Iridiums again. Damn bloke wouldn't give me the code for coppers

That's why I put the highly heat resistant bit in there The studs I got will be fine to well beyond any temperatures my engine bay will ever see, and it does see track work.

Iridiums perform fine. The issue is, as 89CAL said, that Iridiums are much more expensive and on a modified engine they won't last that much longer than a copper one anyway. So there's no point getting Iridiums. Which, if my plugs are my problem here, is the case in point as mine are only about 10,000kms old. Wish I'd known that before I bought mine

Depends. I check the condition I mine every service (3000 kms).