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Hanaldo

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Everything posted by Hanaldo

  1. Yeh because you're not. The HKS 2835ProS is a great turbo, no doubt about it. It's horses for courses, as much as I would love a 2835, I simply can't afford one nor can I find one. So I went with the Hypergear. Simple as that.
  2. Got your PM No worries at all man, wasn't in a rush and you've been a massive help Mate works at CAT and looked up the part number you gave me, turns out they have 5km of the black stuff in Guildford Wil probably be about enough...
  3. Definitely sounds like intercooler plumbing. Have done the exact same thing a few times. Make sure every single clamp is tight as Jez said, don't just look at them and assume they are tight. If they are all good then my money is still on a vacuum leak, but seeing as it happened after boosting then I am quite sure you will find it is the clamps.
  4. Flywheel horsepower. Not wheels. Show me one stock standard R34 GTR making 320awhp.
  5. Could work, I'll query it to the NIStune guys... I'm not sure if the stock boost sensor is still there, I never had the stock boost gauge installed on my car so the sensor may have been ditched. There is a Hitachi MAP sensor at the back of the engine bay utilizing the stock sensors location, but I'm not sure if that is the stock sensor or if that is my boost controllers sensor. The O2 sensor is no longer there, it stopped working a long time ago and I tuned around it so when I got my wideband I decided to just plug up the stock bung and ditch it all together. I'm assuming the other two codes are to do with the traction control which is no longer there. Again I'm not sure which components were removed or if they are still there and just not connected.
  6. Hey guys, Finally got round to reading the error codes on my ECU; I'm posting them up on the NIStune forums but thought I might post them here as well in case anyone might know how to resolve them. So there's 4 codes that came up this time, I believe these are the ones that caused Sean a few problems: [26] DTC BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR (Starts=5) [33] DTC HEATED O2 SENSOR LHS (Starts=0) [44] DTC ABC TCS COMM CIRCUIT (Starts=0) [46] DTC THROTTLE MOTOR SENSOR (Starts=0)
  7. This. It's the multiple oil pumps that do it.
  8. There are very few people out there who waste money on purchasing and getting an aftermarket ECU tuned for a naturally aspirated Skyline.
  9. That second one is running on e-flex mate.
  10. Forgot to post this up in here as well... '98 R34 GT with RB25DET Neo. 660cc Power Enterprise injectors. Walbro 550hp fuel pump. 600x300x100 FMIC. Custom 3" turbo-back exhaust. Custom 3" stainless steel intake. Greddy Profec B-Spec II. NIStune. Z32 AFM. Hypergear ATR43 FNT G3. Turbosmart Compgate 40 external wastegate with two 7psi springs. Tuned to run at 18psi, so still has a bit more in it.
  11. If you can find an external wastegate for $30 to make it work out the same then you're in the black and doing well!
  12. How does it go at higher rpm? I'm assuming you have a wideband if you can see what it's doing? The target AFRs are just that, a target. The true value depends on things like k-constant (injector values) etc. My target AFR at idle on my fuel map is 14.7, but my true AFR is about 17.5. So a screen dump of target values probably won't help much. *EDIT* Sorry, just reread what you wrote and I think you're already aware of what I said
  13. I don't think it is a fault as such. There's nothing actually wrong with the ecu or the NIStune, it's just that the standard ecu isn't liking some of the changes that have been made. And I don't believe it is switching to the knock maps anymore, I did some data logging yesterday and it didn't flip to knock mode once. I think it just made it difficult for Sean to tune so he couldn't get a perfectly smooth curve and the power dropped off a little bit. I think you are right with the difference between graphs though. If you add on 6% (what Simon mentioned is added for the correction method) to the 318.7 that I got on the roller dyno, then you get 337.8. Which is about exactly the same as the number on the 390 run at 5600rpm. The knock maps are exactly the same as the primary maps, so there's no difference there. As I said above, I don't think it is switching now that it has been tuned.
  14. Yes, I'm back to square one again lol. I'm 100% sure the problem isn't with your turbo Stao, so no worries there I just have to find and fix the problem. I just don't know where to start this time The sealing ring is installed and sealed, I know that for sure. Was very careful in setting up my gate. Also when it was with you it only had the 7psi spring in it. It has now got two 7psi springs and holds 14psi perfectly when run at gate pressure. In addition, I have my EBC set up to apply pressure to the top of the diaphragm so it doesn't creep open at all, holds 18psi (what it is set at for high boost) perfectly. With regards to the maps you posted, there isn't too much difference between mine and yours. You've got a bit more timing compared to me, which isn't too surprising as my tuner knows I track the car so he would've kept it safe. You've also got more fuel than me in places, you're running richer up top than I am. But that's just Target A/F, so depends on your injector settings and all that. Hard to draw a comparison there.
  15. Did you read any of the posts regarding price? Direct from Nissan is about as expensive as you will get. Have a look around, you can easily find a genuine Nissan headgasket for $50-$60. For example, quick google search revealed me this: http://www.lewisengi....au/prod180.htm
  16. Yeh keep in mind I already had 260rwkw, I was just changing the turbo. Everything in my setup should easily be capable of 300rwkw, I've got the same parts or better than quite a few people who have achieved 300rwkw. Doesn't quite work that way though
  17. I'd give you advice, but it's pretty obvious you don't take in what has been said anyway. So. Have fun.
  18. Yeh I'm not saying it's my turbos fault. But I went with the Hypergear turbo because it suited my budget. It ended up blowing my budget out of the water. My fault though, that's fair enough. I just didn't realize how much it was going to cost to set up. Rookie mistake.
  19. Yehhh, to be honest I'm becoming more and more disappointed with the car the more I drive it. Boost only starts coming on at about 4200rpm, and I only get full boost by 5200rpm. Which is ridiculous on the street. And now that I'm over the excitement of having a new externally gated turbo, I do have to say it's not as fast as I thought it was. I believe I have managed to get the equivalent of a Holden 5L, it sounds amazing but not much else. I'm afraid I'm gonna have to think about where I wanna go with the car now, I should have stuck with the old setup. Or perhaps if I had known how much work and money was required in setting up this turbo then I would have just gone with a 3076 and custom dump pipe. Anyway, I guess I'll get posting on the NIStune website to see if any of the issues can be resolved, but I'm not confident. Not too keen on pouring another 3-4k into the car to get a ViPEC setup either. For future reference, these are the problems you face when you convert a non-turbo car to turbo. Don't do it newbies, don't do it!
  20. Yeh I do know why it is safer to run a richer AFR, but it gets to a point where it isn't making it any safer and is just killing power. I wasn't sure if I was at that point or if it was reasonable, most maps I've looked at and threads I've read on here have been around 11-11.5 in the higher load areas. But as I said, I'm no experienced tuner, so if you guys say it is reasonable then I'm happy with it Assuming you're referring to mine?? The intake pipe used to be a bit more 'S' shaped, but when I installed the new turbo it didn't fit anymore and I had to trim it back a fair bit. And no the hot pipe isn't standard, all my piping is custom. That pipe is custom ugly. Getting it remade this week.
  21. Exchanged waves with a driver in a white R33 on Gnangara Rd yesterday, at about 1:30 I think
  22. That would be great mate, thanks.
  23. Fair enough, thanks guys. I do track the car, so prefer safety, just wasn't sure if it was any safer running it at 10.5 compared to 11 or 11.5. Any ideas on the lag? Could that be the 3" intake? I didn't think the smaller intake would cost me 500rpm of response though. Jez, I'll have to download the latest maps from my ECU and let you know. Negative, current ATR43 G3 model. This is my intake pipe:
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