Hanaldo

Are you using an AFM or do you have a MAP based ecu?? Just interested in how much work is involved moving the AFM to the cooler piping if anyone reading this has done it. $400 for broken studs? Jeez... It's so easy to get a broken stud out

The enjoyment disappears quickly mate, trust me. Sure I love my car now, but in hindsight I would probably have loved a factory GTT just as much and spent far less cash and had far less problems. There are so many fkn headaches it isn't funny. I've had my car almost 4 years now. In that time, I've put 23,000kms on the chassis. My car is my daily, it's the only car I own. 23,000kms in 4 years as my daily driven car. THAT is how much time it has spent off the road; first getting the engine swap and then diagnosing and fixing random problems associated with said engine swap. It has come a long way and I love the pig But if I could do it all again... Sell it.

That catch can/overflow bottle is exactly what I want So damn hard to find. May have to get one custom made, but all quotes I have got so far are ridiculous

Perfect, thanks guys I thought I was correct with the teeing into the same line theory, wanted to make sure though. Artz, I believe connecting the EBC to the top port applies pressure to the diaphragm which stops it creeping open, giving better boost control. I'm using two 7psi internal springs which will give me my low boost, but I want to run about 20psi high boost. So either way, this setup appears to be the best option.

Well just weld the internal gate shut, that's no biggy. Unless it's hard to access...

Hey all, Sorry if this has been asked before, I did a search but all I could find were threads asking about wastegate sizes. I'm seeking a little clarification about plumbing up my wastegate. At the moment, I have it setup so that the top port is venting to atmosphere and the bottom port is getting the feed from my Profec B-Spec II solenoid. But, as I understand it, you can get better boost control by having the EBC apply pressure to the top port to keep the diaphragm shut. So I would like to plumb it up in that configuration. However, neither the Greddy manual nor the Turbosmart manual are very clear about where to get the pressure feeds from. I believe the bottom port should get it's feed from as close to the compressor as possible, in my case that's a nipple on my hot cooler piping just after the turbo. But at the moment, that nipple is feeding my EBC solenoid. So if I was to move this line to the bottom port on the wastegate, and have the solenoid connected to the top port, where do I get the feed for the solenoid from? Do I tee into the line going to the wastegate? I'm sure it's a simple solution, I just don't want to connect it wrong. Thanks for any help, Cheers, Martin.

This. It's too much of a 'patch-up' job for me. Some tuners are even refusing to do it now. But if you can find a tuner who recommends going the NIStune over a PFC then go for it, in the end it's the tune that matters not the ECU. If the tuner can do a better job with a NIStune or vise versa then it's better to go with what they recommend.

You will be hard pressed to find injectors that don't require spacers to fit. Spacers are not really an issue, although mine came a little close to hitting the plenum. But I believe the Siemens injectors require different plugs to be fitted as the stock ones are oval and the Siemens are square. Or something along those lines, either way it didn't sound like a big issue either. My tuner simply told me to stay away from them so I did, but there's plenty of people on here who seem to be using them successfully with no issues.

The knock control is a little unreliable because of the stock knock sensors, it happens every so while where the sensors detect knock that is just noise and the ECU just jumps to the knock map. Often tuners just won't setup a knock map and instead simply copy the main map across so nothing changes. Personally I've added a little fuel and pulled a couple degrees up top just to be safe, but for anyone who doesn't have access to the software themselves and can't reset the codes then it can get a little annoying.

Yehh Jeff, comment was more in reaction to the amount of fking around I had to do in order to keep my aircon. It just seems to be in the way of everything, including my screamer pipe. And I would rather not have water coming into the cabin every time I use the aircon Anyway, for those who are interested, here's a few pictures of my setup: New turbo. Size comparison. For science Old vs New: How it sits without any of the plumbing. At this stage I thought it was going to be easy In this image you can see the issues I have with the dump touching the drain pipe as well as the screamer pipe fitment. It's gonna be a hell of a custom job for that screamer. And in this image you can see how far over it moved my intake pipe. I used to be able to fit my radiator overflow in there as well, but that's had to be relocated. And finally this is how my bay looks in general. It actually looks much neater than my previous setup did, I spared no expense with this setup. I'm playing with the idea of doing a full write-up for the install, but unfortunately I didn't take any pictures along the way... If there's any interest in me doing it then I guess I can give it a go anyway. Or if anyone wants pictures of anything in specific then I can go and take some for you.

Do any other AEM UEGO users have an issue with their gauge whining? I'm not sure if it's supposed to do this, but I would have thought not. My gauge whines really badly, it sounds almost like an exhaust leak. It's farkin annoying

Bah. My pipe is already melted May have to just delete the air-con

That's around my general area, I'll keep an eye out for you mate. Very distinctive car, definitely can't miss it. If I see it, we'll see if they can outrun me

$500, but I got them secondhand (had been installed but not run). I believe they are around $180 each brand new.

FWIW I'm using 660cc Power Enterprise injectors (I believe for a WRX), they were a straight fit no changes needed except the spacer.

Oh come on, what about google!? I'll throw you a bone though. Wasted spark means the spark plugs fire in pairs. So one sparks during the compression stroke and the other sparks during the exhaust stroke. That spark during the exhaust stroke does nothing though, hence 'wasted'. The benefits of this is that you can halve the number of ignition components that you need, so on a 6-cylinder car you can use 3 coils, etc.

I'll take a photo in the morning, it's finally all back together and running like a dream No air-locks or anything which I was very surprised about, I did bleed the system but usually it takes a couple of tries to get all the air out. Now I just need to get the screamer pipe made up and it's ready for the tune on Friday. My setup is quite neat now, apart from my hot cooler pipe which is hideous Will be getting that remade and then it should look the goods Then rocker cover respray, then custom catch can, then then then... It never ends Could you explain a little more about the air con drain? The dump pipe is touching it, by quite a bit actually. What do you mean you put a hole on the end of it???

You'll get sick of it How much does the trumpet foul by?? If it's only a little bit then I would just try to slowly bend the nipple. If it's a fair bit then I'd say you will need a spacer plate. That nipple doesn't screw out, it's part of a plate that goes underneath the crossover pipe, looks tack welded on.

But... Racecar

Return it to stock? Seriously though, I would suggest bending the nipple a little bit? How much does it foul by? Perhaps a spacer plate is in order...

Yeh I got that. But - to use the line of the peoples moderators - do you really think that this hasn't been asked before in the 7 years this site has been operating? There is LOADS of information on here, I could read for DAYS about ECU's and their pro's/con's/peoples opinions. Just search! I mean, you've waited what, 22 minutes to get these replies from myself or others? That's 22 minutes of your life that you will never get back, my good sir. 22 minutes that could have been spent educating yourself on your choices of ECU with the vast pool of information on here.

Right, so VERY close to having my car back up and running. Have spent about $500 just in parts to get this thing to fit on properly, not including having to use my own terrible welding skills to modify my hot 'cooler piping. Gonna cost another $500ish to get that redone nicely, but that's a story for another day. Just need to source a piece of pipe to properly plumb up the oil return line, spent $50 on some oil control hose that just kinks when I tighten the clamp up BUT, having now got it all back together, I am definitely going to have an issue with the dump pipe being too close too that damn air-con drain. I've got maybe 2-3mm of clearance there. Solutions??

Is this the 'Question of Today' or something?

Have a read on here of people using the Z32 + NIStune setup. It just seems like way too many horror stories and headaches to me. If it was any other car, I would recommend the NIStune whole heartedly, I have one myself and I love it. But in an R33, it seems like too much of a 'patch-up' type job. Especially in light of needing an 8-bit ECU instead of a 16-bit; that is so easy to get wrong and then before you know it you're hundreds of dollars out of pocket. Way off. A series one or two RB25 PFC can easily be had for ~$1000. Have seen several for sale recently under that as well. And if you're willing to purchase one without the hand controller then that knocks another couple hundred off.

SAFC's are mud, don't go there. For an R33 I would say go PFC. Less headaches than the NIStune for not THAT much more. If you can find one...