the phantom

I have an air box and snorkal in Adelaide. I can easily mail if your are interested. PM if so.

Have series 1 left and right headlights + bonnet...$500 for lot.

Circa '96, been sitting in shed for last 5 years and never got around to completing project. Was told it was in good condition when purchased from NSW wrecking yard with around ~100k on the clock. $750 ONO Will ship anywhere in Oz at extra cost. Please email with any questions.

I have everything you need in various boxes in my shed!

The grub screw you've heard about blocks off the hole at the head/cylinder interface as there is no matching oil supply hole in the rb30 block as in the rb25. If you dont block it off your external oil feed will leak through this hole. I played around with disconnecting the VCT solenoid on my stock cammed RB30DET and found that without it the bottom end was noticeably doughy. It is a relatively minor mod compared to implementing a blower system...

DRFTR33....By idle limiter you mean that you will hit the fuel cut point at idle??? I.e. the PFC will cut fuel thinking its in the overrun scenario following a throttle back off whilst cruising at speed when in actual fact you are at idle?

Ok well that checks out then. Set your TPS to 0.5 V not 0.6V at closed throttle and try again. Let me know how you go.

can you see the TPS registering the full voltage range as you open and close the throttle?

Beat me by 43 minutes....:usuck: Good deal!

I remember a while back when sorting some idle problems on my RB25/30 DET R33 with PFC, that at a certain very minute openning of the throttle, just passed closed, I could induce this same hunting condition repeatably. I also came to the conclusion that the idle control algorithm of the PFC was inferior to the standard ECU, but I managed to fix it eventually after much hair pulling. What engine are you running ....RB25,26...I cant really see clearly from your avatar? The 26 has a throttle switch as well as a TPS, wheras the 25 only has the TPS. I assume you have the correct PFC for your engine? What AFM are you using? Have you removed the screens etc?

I PM'ed early this morning at 12:23 AM. Did you beat me too? Have you actually had a response from him to confirm?

Another R33 rust area is around the drivers side window wiper shaft, just as it comes out of the cowling under the black plastic escutcheon There is an indentation around it with no way for water to drain. I had to drill out one of the bolts that secure the shaft to the cowling as it was rusted and seized. A small hole drilled in the depression will fix it....

I'll take your 4 R34 GTR brembo calipers. Please forward account details and delivery costs to Adelaide.

Draconian, dictatorial policies. I cant help but wonder why there is this relentless need for MORE rules and regulation. How on earth have we survived this long without them? So long as people dont do anything on mass we will continue to be taken for granted and forced to accept the morals and personal beliefs of the few. The notion of public concensus is seemingly irrelevant nowadays. I imagine these 'politicians' going to sleep feeling impressed with themselves for having changed the world for the better. I think its time for revolution.....oh, I forgot,.....they've taken our guns away too!!!!! I better not yell this out to loudly though....I'll have to prove I'm not guilty of something else, and who knows how long that will take....

I also vouch for the hammer right through the filter idea...works very well, albeit messy. Then again all filter removals seem to end up messy!

how do you 'fix' the rear alignment to minimise camber change??

So are both 4th and 5th overdrive in both the R32/33?? Has anyone got a handbook that shows ratios?

Nah...the 4 speed auto is a 3 speed + OD. The five speed auto was apparently available in the R33 GTS, type G, type G SE and the type S. Never heard of anyone mentioning one though...

The Nissan Fast database mentions availability of a 5 speed auto for the R33 series. Has anyone seen, heard or know anything about a 5 speed auto for an R33???

pictures?

I'm keen if the quality of the moulding and fit is there.

Sorry to momentarilly move off topic, but I promised a set of pictures of the R33 mounts and the engine lowering blocks I used. Note that each aluminium mount has had the mounting and locating slots lengthened for positioning on the top of the rubber pad, and the crossmember slot was lengthened from below the pad...Havent dissasembled yet so dont have any actual measurements. The engine/box braces were slightly relieved with an angle grinder to accommodate the power steering lines.

Why is it that no aftermarket conrod I've seen has the oil squirt hole in the big end for cylinder wall lubrication? I find it strange that the factory insists on doing this if its not really that important. Any ideas?

Adjusted mine by hand, no springs used.

Bl4ck32....why did you go with a custom 1 piece tailshaft? Cubes et al....is there actually that much meat on the '32 engine mounts that you can slot them 13/15 mm? On the R33 the mounts are minimalist alloy items and that much would almost cut through. Since my entire front end is now on a pallet on the floor I may take some pictures and measurements of my setup...