the phantom

Freight to Sydney would be in the order of $100, delivered to your door on a pallet. Insurance may also be a good idea. I'll find out how much this would be....

When I did the RB30/26 on my R33 GTSt the intake crossover pipe/throttle body touched the bonnet. The strut brace also didn't fit. It was some no-name brand. I had to lower the engine about 25mm using adaptor plates between the mounts and the engine, and slightly relieve the engine/gearbox braces. The strut brace I had still didn't fit. Perhaps a GTR brace has a different profile. The clamp securing the crossover pipe to the throttle body has ever so slightly rubbed on the hood lining over time with engine movement.

Friday 28/05/04...this comming Friday. Yes they are still available.

A close up photo package is now available for those seriously interested. Unfortunately it is about 14 Mb in size. I cant do much less without losing much of the detail that everyone want s to see. I'll email to interested parties. If you have difficulties with the size of the file PM me and let me know.....

I took the pictures tonight, but had the email I was sending to myself at home blocked as the files added up to 23 Mb!! I'll adjust our mail server tomorrow and try again , but I think I'll have to reduce the resolution so that people who request photos dont have download issues. The photos came out well however. The tyres are Bridgestone Potenza RE040 245/40/18. There is about 2-3 mm of tread on two of the tyres. Probably about 1-2 on the other two, however the centre section is worn almost flat on those...I'd say they were probably over inflated. The pictures will show it all. Apologies for the delay...I'll get onto it ASAP....

Yes I'll provide this info tonight, as well as more detailed pictures....

Yes the wheels are still available, and yes I will answer all questions. Just be patient please, I do have to work during the day..... The wheels have NO CURB DAMAGE whatsoever. Some very minor light scratches and small chips here and there as a result of general road use. Some cut and polish will remove most of this and only necessary if you are really pedantic. The tyres should only be considered as temporary in my opinion. I'll upload some more pics of closeups as close as my camera will go tonight....

Ok Rafael, got the wrong idea there somewhere along the story about the Q45...maybe it was late!!!

Raphael, the standard ECU wont handle the Q45 AFM, the mapping for it will be all wrong. Even on an FC if you temporarily switch to the Q45 whilst running the standard AFM it runs bad. The TPS is a pot. It tells the ECU when you let off the throttle, but also controls acceleration enrichment. At idle the TPS should be about 0.5v increasing with throttle to usually just under 5v. This also ties in with idle control performance.

You can fit it all in with the standard exhaust manifold and plumbing with the following mods: Make a new turbo compressor outlet tube that joins to the standard pipe leading into the hole at the side of the engine bay. This is obvious as the turbo outlet doesn't screw on like the standard GTSt turbo does. Make an adaptor block about 40mm thick (approx!) that fits between the standard exhaust turbo flange and the GT30 with longer bolts to secure it all. This not only moves the turbo further out since it would foul on the manifold body (its much bigger than standard!) but also doubles as a spot to weld on a tube for external gate fitment. Get a moulded 45 degree rubber bend from a truck supplier that goes from the compressor inlet with a metal reducer that mates with the standard AFM. The reducer can also have a tube welded in for the BOV. It all fits and looks standard depending on how you mount the gate. Mounting it pointing downwards would make it difficult to spot. With all this your left with about 15 mm clearance between the turbo and the shock tower.

gone to the highest bidder.....if the cash actually comes through!!!

Just use an RB25 balancer. Its weight has nothing to do with engine balance. All it does is dampen out the oscillatory clockwise and counterclockwise twist that occurs at the snout of the crank relative to the flywheel as a result of cylinder firing impulses. I've had a feel of both RB30/25 balancers and the weight isn't all that different, however the construction is. The RB25 balancer probably has a different state of 'tune' (like a tuning fork) to an RB30 as the cranks would have different twisting responses due to stroke and max RPM differences. Interestingly the RB26 balancer is different again. Without physically measuring the crank twist occurring under load it is impossible to confirm which is more appropriate with any certainty. And measuring the oscillations whilst the engine is running is not straighforward for the backyard builder without some specialised equipment, although in principle its pretty simple. I used an RB25 balancer on my RB30/25 without any obvious long term consequences.

ENTYSU, Being a Skyline forum I assumed you were talking RB's. I didn't intimate that all oil squirters are the same...nor did I question your pedigree.

Hey ENTYSU, The block oil squirters fire vertically upwards towards the underside of the piston crown and so are for cooling purposes. The conrod squirters are angled and hence for the bore.

The RB25 and RB30 harmonic balancers, whilst being physically interchangeable appear to have a different construction as already mentioned. However the point of interest is that they also have consequently different states of harmonic tune as they have differing effective weighting on the damper section. Speculating, one would assume it is to compensate for the different harmonic characteristics of the different cranks i.e. the RB30 is a longer stroke than the RB25. I have long wondered about the harmonic issue talked about at 7500 RPM, but it seems no one has ever done a proper test to see what exactly is going on. Is it a TORSIONAL harmonic issue? Is it a BENDING moment issue? Anyone ever had a close look at the damper used on the Autospeed monster RB30 by Nispro? That looks like it has substantially more mass to it on the damper ring. For my long serving RB25/30 I used the RB30 balancer with no apparent long term effects, and a strictly enforced 7000 RPM limit. Without testing though I can't say wether or not it was the right decision.

The oil squirters are for piston crown cooling. The rod squirters are for bore lubrication. It is interesting that many aftermarket forged rods dont bother with the bore lubrication holes, not even cut outs on the thrust face of the big end, as some other manufacturers do. Argo are one such company I've enquired about this. They said they have never had any failures attributable to no bore lubrication. Obviously the cloud of oil mist in the sump normally must provide adequate lubrication for this, although it then raises the issue as to why OEM manufacturers bother with it.

Another case of confusion caused by salesmen insisting on making up their own naming conventions and power levels?! The part number you mention is a GT35R according to the Garrett catalogue. So are all the specs you have provided. There is no such thing as a Garrett GT35/40R officially, unless it is some sort of custom made hybrid. Can you confirm that it is a genuine and un-molestered Garrett GT35R, part number 714568-0001? If so and if you provide some detailed pics, then I'm interested...

Hi GTR-Ben, Are you able to post the actual Garrett part numbers for your GT3040 so everyone knows what is going on for comparison. As far as I can determine, there is not really any such thing as a Garrett GT3040 officially, only various components that make some sort of hybrid. This has led to a great deal of confusion, for me personally and I assume many others, by salespeople that persist on applying HKS nomenclature to off-the-shelf Garrett componentry. Thanks.

pics...?

The cold start valve is in a pain in the ass position under the intake plenum. It can be removed if you have the right size tools. It can also be pulled apart and cleaned. A whole lot of crap collects here over the years. I had mine siezed shut and thus provided no cold start. There is also an adjusting screw, and you can physically bend the internal spring to get the characteristics required. Once apart you'll quickly understand how it works. I remember doing adjustments, running it, the taking it off, putting it in the freezer, adjusting and trying again. It picks up heat off the plenum assembly, but it also has an internal heater element which gives a time based function. The ambient heat then overrides the operation in warm engine conditions. Hope that helps some...

Yes I got it the other day, but I haven't used it yet. I ran the software. The air temp correction stuck to my mind. What sensor is used for this though? Initially I've found documentation a bit lacking however, and the a brief trip to the yahoo group showed nothing much relevant to it. I'll be getting further into it in a few weeks.

No RB30 has the oil squirters.

Yes!

According to the electrical drawings, the fuel pump modulator has an eight pin plug, with only pins 1,2,4,5,6,7 connected.

Ah...yes.