the phantom

NOOOOO.....dont stop!!! You make this look so damn easy its ridiculous! I've never seen this detailed anywhere so I remain very intrigued. Doesn't the 2WD floor lack the bulge for the 4WD transfer case? Or are you welding in a new floor as well??

I would guess the fuel pump modulator...although I've never been able to find mine...maybe I should look again..More pictures needed....how many wires comming out the plug?

Hey Joel, What piston clearance are you running? How are you going to measure compression ratio with a pressure guage...just curious! I haven't got the RB30 manual in front of me, but from memory the recommended decking is 20 thou max. Do people abide by this or are deeper deck cuts possible reliably?

Sorry for taking a tangent, but where can you get a new Garrett GT35R for under 2K?

It looks as though the lawmakers will soon kill modern car modification, or make it so difficult, expensive and beurocratic that noone will have the resources to do it legally...damn shame.

19,000 RPM !!!!!!

With a PowerFC you can connect an even 'bigger' AFM than the Z32-an Infinity Q45 AFM. What is wrong with having an AFM anyway? Many tout that as some huge point of conjecture when comparing to an FC. There is negligible pressure drop difference between an AFM and an equivalent straight section of tube, so in my opinion this point is rather moot. With the power target mentioned you wouldn't need anything radical enough to upset an AFM anyway. There has been an ongoing rather heated 'discussion' on this comparison...do a search ( wolf3d vs PowerFC from memory) and you'll get both sides of the coin...

I dont think there is any cheap/simple/nasty way to implement a sophisticated enough programmable 'variable rate resistor' without ending up with a microcontroller circuit. By this stage you will have re-invented the wheel and created an interceptor like the Unichip itself.

I sounds as though you just need to find a decent Unichip programmer. Isn't there two in Adelaide- the one you dont like and another-blackwood dyno and service? I dont really know anything about the Unichip but considering the hype and marketing, cant it be configured to read TPS and RPM? I think having this and then adding resistors (you would need two in a voltage divider configuration, with large values so as to not load the AFM output) is a bit of a band aid....Either way you would still have the voltage clipped, albeit at a lower value when the AFM runs out of resolution.

Hi ylwgtr2, This is very cool... What are your plans for the 4WD into the 2WD front cut...will you be modifying what you have to fit or installing GTR chassis rails? Or will we have to wait for the next inthralling episode!!

Thanks for the info Sydneykid and ronin6.

I'm still of the firm belief that ISO acreditation would solve most issues here due to the necessity of a paper trail and accountability. You cant break protocol with personal and random opinion with this in place, and there will exist a resolution procedure for unhappy customers, which will by necessity require documentation on their part. The fact that SEVS makes this mandatory, only to have the 'approval' body escape without it is simply ludicrous, and reaks of inconsistancy. Also are there any degreed mechanical engineers present? Without such no one is suitably qualified to make a judgement call on mechanical modifications. I thankfully have never had to go through this trauma but fully sympathise with those less fortunate. I think it would be easier to succesfully argue this implementation, and everything we are looking for would be necessarily covered and under the 'guise' of modern practice, which should make any politician happy. Does anyone else have any opinion on this?

Hi, what warpspeed suggested is a hands on approach to what a line bore/hone in a crank tunnel achieves. I would guess something like this process could also be done on the head with a machine, if anyone isn't game enough to try the manual method! I dont know how common small diameter tools on such machines are however... Early on I also had a slight ticking, more prevelant when the engine just started and was cold. After various excercises I ended up having the head cleaned up. This included a seat regrind, which must have moved the valves up just a little bit and ever since I have had no more issues...that was 55k km ago... I'm not sure why the lifters weren't pumping up to compensate, but I guess that there is a limit to how much they can take up. I didn't really do anything else to the lifters other than taking them out cleaning them (on the outside) and putting them back in.

Plain old toothpaste and elbow grease will work on polishing out scratches from the plastic instrument lens...tried it and it works well.

Ring Unley Nissan Spare parts and find out...oh yeah, and make sure you're sitting down...there are 24 of them

Thanks for the numbers on AFM's SK

Your R33 RB25DET has hydraulic lash adjusters and as such cant be 'adjusted'. You may have to get new ones...

Hi Sydneykid, But the RB25/26 has piston oil squirters AND conrod squirters, wheras the RB30 only has the conrod squirters. I was under the impression that the conrod squirters lube the cylinder walls and the piston squirters cool the piston from below. Wouldn't having both together require additional flow? Do you run the piston squirters on your RB31's?

Hey SydneyKid, In a word....YES. You've pretty much outlined what I have in mind. An RB30 with an RB26 head and associated paraphanalia and mods as mentioned, with the intention of lots of street and regular drag racing sessions to bring out the peak. I was aiming at 600+ bhp. Would the .82 be more appropriate for this power target or would you suggest I reconsider my turbo choice? I want to use off the shelf Garrett equipment rather than any Japanese brand names...

Hi Sydneykid, Yeah that certainly adds up. Although my current engine seems to have held up OK for over 55K km with the ET pump, it is only relatively mild (250 rwKW) but has had more than its fair share of excursions to the firm RPM limit of 7000. Who knows how close to the edge it has come. With the new one in progress I intend on much more ( I'm not scared yet !) , and with my intention to dabble in drag racing and its associated stresses, I'd rather not take any chances and skimp here. How does one reliably modify the RB30 crank snout for the wider gear? I'm thinking some sort of keyed shrink fit adaptor on a turned down crank snout. Any recommendations or experiences on how to do this? I do recall adaptors being available for the early RB26's from some Jap company.... Sorry Joel, I fear a relapse in your denial condition

Hi, Has anyone had any experience with this turbo on an RB? I've included the Garrett part number available in Australia. The -1 is a 1.06 A/R exhaust and the -2 is a 0.82 A/R exhaust. Comments/impressions please....

Without actually seeing an RB30ET pump I can only speculate....damn I wish I had one lying around. Even though it appears the 'ET pump has a wider gear than the '25DET , I dont believe you can automatically assume the '30ET flows more than the '25DET. There is the substantial difference in tooth design to consider (see the pics I took above), so the '25DET may actually be more efficient and flow more then the 'ET even with the thinner gear. Given the information we have, one would think this is the case for the exact reasons you mentioned above, i.e double overhead cams and oil squirters vs single cam and no squirters for the '30. Personally I'm not too fussed about the crank engagement issue too much as my application is for a strong street engine with revs way below astronomical. What does concern me though is the flow capability of the 'ET pump and the effects to the long term health of the engine. At the moment I'm more inclined to fit the early RB26DETT pump, or modify the crank and fit the '25DET pump and take advantage of the R&D Nissan has already done. I know the '30ET pump works in my current engine, but I neither have the time nor inclination for regular rebuilds, or to investigate the long term effects. I preffer to do things right the first time and build for long term trouble free use.

Hey, I can also confirm the measurements. I used a pair of verniers and got 10.8 mm wide for the RB30E and 11 mm for the RB25DET. Both gears have the same internal diameters differing only in engagement width onto their respective crankshafts. So it looks as though the RB30ET pump is the way to go, dont think the over-revving will be an issue for us !

My first drive in a turbo was a 1976 Galant with a 2.6 litre Astron turbo on 10 PSi...the rest is history...

But the RB26 pump has the wider engagement on the crank. The RB30 crank will need to be modifed...or is that the difference between the early and later RB26 pumps...