bigcarl

may be iam interested in buying the car that is why iam asking you the tuff questions ...

it all sounds too good to be true.i mean this car was purchased by you from someone else on these forums for $18k , which the seller stated the same problem with oil pump and yet youve taken delivery of the car and have decided its too hard to fix as well??? i think that the most people would see the motor fail before they would realise that the oil pump is cactus! i know that if i were driving down the road in my car and the oil pump ceased to work anymore or the sump was cracked i would probably not notice the problem until the engine stopped ie; my eyes are on the road more than the oilpressure gauge.

bumpety bump!

price drop to $21000 ono.

going from a gtr to an xr8????

up she goes...

bump .

price drop $21500 ono

[ ttachment=105690:IMGP3389.JPG]im probably wasteing my time with this one,but considering it seems to be virtually impossible for the owners of skylines to successfully sell there cars on these forums i thought id try another way of obtaining my dream car a gtr and hopefully making a gtr owners dream come true of selling there gtr and still owning a very quick skyline but with some cash to boot! so here we go; im in the market for an r33 gtr nissan skyline standard or modified ,not too fussed . anyone who would like to swap for a 346rwkw burgundy coloured series 1 r33 gts-t with $20k plus in receips for rebuilt engine and performance modifications{ see forsale section under bigcarl for full details and pics} plus cash your way, which we can discuss via private message. post here for starters if you are interested ??? thanx carl.

cheers robo's.

thanx kj.

bump.

rebuilt the engine with forged internals in december , cost me $8500. brand new gt3040 600hp turbo also purchased in december. have receips for all the work done. have only driven the car 1500klms since rebuild !!! this is my week end car, no longer needed. make me a reasonable offer ? car has cost me $20k in parts and labour alone!!!

cars comes with 11 months rego.

[ ttachment=105189:IMGP3383.JPG][attachm nt=105204:IMGP3445.JPG] $21500 ono. over 20k spent on mods !!! as the title states im looking at trying to sell my 1994 series 1 r33 gts-t nissan skyline. i bought this car back in 2000, iam the first australian registered owner . the car had 57000klms on in 2000, now 123,000klms. with under 2000 klms since rebuild last year. this car is meticulously maintained and only driven to work twice a week. tuned on shell v-power racing 100 ron fuel and engine oil changed every 5000 kilometers . use only mobil 1 fully synthetic. im in no rush to sell and iam very reluctant. mods as follows; ecu; link plus stand alone fully functioning computer $1600 plus tuning. i have receits 550 cc/min injectors,bosche motor sport 600 hp in tank high volume fuel pump. map sensor, and xr6 turbo boost control solenoid. standard rb25det one couldnt cope! dual boost control; 17psi low boost equates to 274 rwkws { see dyno chart above} 24psi high boost equates to 346 rwkws. very easy to drive on low boost. a bit of a handfull on high boost. splitfire high performance coils,these cost me $700 fom nengun.com.au gt3040 600hp garrett turbo running huge a/r .70 compressor housing and a/r .82 exhaust housing. this is only 1500 kilometers old and cost me $1500 fom gcg turbos in sydney. i have receipts. tial 38mm external wastegate running two diaphragm springs to acheive 1 bar minimum boost. $400 from magic performance in sydney. this is only 1500 klms old as well. this whole set up is perched up high on a stainless steel 6 into 1 high mount manifold. custom pipe work consisting of 4 inch into turbo , 2.5 inch from turbo elbow to 600mm x 300mm x 80mm cooling pro intercooler and 3 inch pipe from otherside of cooler into plenum. this all set me back over $2000. 3 inch custom dump pipe from back of turbo, external wastegate plumbed into dump pipe over 30cm down the dump for better flow and less restriction to turbo dump gasses. 4 inch magic cat. 3 inch straight out through japaneese style stainless steel barrel muffler with 4.5 inch outlet. $1200. driveline: standard 5 speed manual mated to an exedy extreme brass button clutch and lightened flywheel. standard r200 rear end. $1800 fitted. engine ; rb25det rebuilt with forged wiseco pistons ,fully balanced,resized and fully prepared gtr conrods and arp rod bolts . fully recoed head ,ported .tomei hydraulic lifters , valve springs and 256 degree poncams inlet and exhaust. this is worth an extra 30 rwkws by itself!! cometic multi layered steel head gasket. $8500 , have receipts. work done less than 2000klms ago.

i ran 22psi with standard valve springs and tomei step1 poncams only started to float at 24psi and over 7000rpm.

ive used one of the older gtech meters at the drags and it was only 1/10 of a second out.

im only 6 feet tall and i find that when i wear a helmet in my r33 gts-t my head hits the roof lining too, so much so that i have to not only put the seat right back but i have tilt the back rest right back to the point wear it doesnt offer much support anymore. anyone else have this problem???

i use standard inlet plenum and standard throttle body,but i use 3 inch intercooler pipe into plenum from cooler on plenum side and 2.5 inch pipeing from gt3040 turbo elbow on the turbo side. result 347rwkws at 24psi!!! i personally think unless you are running a 700plus hp turbo and 20 plus psi or 600plus horse power save your money. low down response is great too get 15psi at 4000rpm .

347rwkws at 24psi on shell 100 ron v power racing, runs like a rocket because it was tuned for the stuff end of story. tuunniinng!!!!

sellit and buy one thats already modded! save thousands....

i think sydney kid has posted on this topic before . he seems to think drive train loss is around a fixed 65 kws?

gt3040 turbo 347rwkws at 24psi on shell 100ron. speaks for itself.

to think he took the better engine out of it to drop the 5 litre in lol!!

ive got one of the earlier gtech meters and ive never used the rear wheelpower measurement but ihave used the 0 to 100 km/h and quartermile function. now i cant verify how accurate 0 to 100km is but the terminal speed for quartermile was pretty much spot on for what it was on my time slip at the legal off street drags. and i found that using the o - 100km/h function actually helps you to work out how many revs to drop your clutch at and how best to feed the power through the drive line to get the best results ie: i was getting hih 5 sec o-100 km/h with wheelspin when i dropped the cluth at 6000rpm with 280rwkws and then found that launching the car at 4000rpm gave me low 5s seconds 0 to 100 . then i found that reving the car to redline in 1st gear to second gear was giving too much wheel spin , so id short shift first gear to second and id come up with high 4s second 0 to 100 km/h on shitty street tyres . then it made better at getting a better 60 footer at the drags e.t.c. so i found the g-tech to be a good tool for this.