jrh001

(down to page 6 already!). No photos yet..?

Profile photos are good but more photos might help: front, back, both sides, etc. JH

Hi, OK, the (negotiable) asking price is high but there is another way of looking at it. Imagine you've bought a 'bargain' R30 (nothing special but in fair condition). What would it cost to "do it up" to the level of GTR30's car? Add the cost of a full re-trim, springs, wheels and tyres, engine modifications, brakes, repaint, etc... What would all that cost? My guess is at least $5000 which is approaching the price listed here on the for sale thread. As Ghostrider mentioned, it's a limited market and there are plenty of other $7000 cars out there. There's hope though, buying isn't always a rational decision. JH

Hi, Are you selling the car with RWC? JH

Hi, How many kms has it done? What's the condition of the body and interior? Colour? JohnH

What did they do (partial/full retrim?) and how much did it cost? JohnH

Hi, Not a coupe and not in Vic but there's a 4 door with a 2.8L engine on this "buy before you try" website: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=130325794438 JH

Hi, There's a very helpful post (with pictures) here: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=133876.0 The rear seat sits against the edge of the shelf. I'd say there's much less chance of damaging the shelf if the seat is removed first. JH

You're lucky it wasn't the "Loading Zone" around the corner in Colemen Pde near the station. $117 fine for a 10 second stop - I always thought it was a "drop off" area since there's nowhere else to stop on that side of the road - unless you're a taxi. (I'm an unofficial taxi but that doesn't count.) JH

Hi, So manual or auto, 240 or 280 all seem to work. Also, I noticed recently that the Bosch catalog still includes caps and rotor buttons (but not the ECU) for these distributors. This old list of (US) specs may be a useful reference for someone: http://www.newprotest.org/projects/510/dizzy_specs.htm JohnH

To continue the story... An autotrimmer quoted $800 to retrim the front and rear seats. This was a "minimum" retrim leaving all the vinyl and replacing cloth only. A full retrim would be between $1200 and $1500 depending on the material chosen. Also considered getting seats from a later model car. First thought was an R31 but the rails are different and other models even more different. So, back to the wreckers and an R30 ti model that I'd looked at previously. The rears and passenger seat now looked more reasonable than they did before (no rips, no blotches) so have been purchased for about $120. Now looking for a driver's seat. cheers, JohnH

Hi, There's one advertised for sale here http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=133962.0 (If the link doesn't work, go to http://forum.r31skylineclub.com and look in the Trading Post > For Sale - Cars thread) JH

very nice! Can you provide some more info about the car pls? What are those seats? Wheels? cheers, JohnH

Someone will have to check this but I think they require premium unleaded fuel. (I've got an R30 that runs on unleaded). Economy depends on engine size and driving style. You can check insurance costs by doing an online quote with any of the major insurance companies. Age/experience is a big factor so there are "large" excesses that apply to claims if you're young or has a licence for less than two years. Cheapest option is "third party" or "third party, fire and theft". You should at least get "third party" insurance. For my (older) car with (older) driver, third party insurance is around $180. As well as this forum, you might find a car and extra advice here. cheers, JohnH

Hi, Just my own opinion: "Low kms" (up to 240000, but the lower the better) few modifications straight panels - and all the same colour minimal rust good wheels and tyres roadworthy certificate Perhaps you can post some specifics about what you're looking for: auto/manual, sedan/wagon. Also, if unsure, it's a good idea to have a mechanic check out the car for you. good luck, JohnH

That's too far to drive - especially with dodgy steering (I'm in Melbourne). By the way, it might be a good idea to get an independent second opinion on the steering problems - just to make sure before you start spending the $$$$. cheers, JohnH

Hi Where are you located? The local wreckers have a few more Skylines than usual. JohnH

Thanks G, It seems expensive... perhaps there's a second-hand copy around somewhere? cheers, JohnH

Hi Dennis, Would you happen to have an MR30 workshop manual in your collection? For sale? cheers, JohnH

It's working fine. (There has been a later problem but not with the dizzy.) cheers, JohnH

Hi, I bought the re-co one. Have got two old ones - one with worn bushes and other faults - another from Dennis (Ghostrider) mentioned earlier in this thread (no rotor or cap and vac advance many not work). JohnH

Hi, Found this note (but can't comment on the quality of the advice): "An easy way to test for an FPR leak in the vacuum side is to replace the vacuum line going into the FPR with a length of clear tubing. Now you'll be able to see leak as it happens. IT will most likely show failure when your vacuum is at its lowest point, as in during acceleration." (on http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshoo..._fpr_inspt.htm) JohnH