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TUF250

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Everything posted by TUF250

  1. that item with the ford logo is an Idle Speed COntroller off of an EF/EL (possiblly AU) 6 cylinder. A good unit but I dont think they opperate the same as out AAC does
  2. your probably right, just wanted to check before I dug into it. Thinking of mounting a cup for a boost gauge to it and running the wire through the vent under the dash, should look fairly tidy
  3. Hi guys, I want to mount a boost gauge in my r33 series2. I was thinking of mounting the gague cup to the air vent that sits on top of the dash on the right hand side of the cluster. do these just pop out with a crewdriver or are they more secure than that? thanks
  4. bump still interested guys
  5. redline has been in there for about 500ks now. certainly much better once it warms up, only does it occassionally once warm. In the morning if you double clutch it dosnt crunch but if you dont it will until warm. so this is a common problem, ill just ahve to be nice
  6. also note that the crunch into second is from first. dosnt seem to do it downshifting back to second. thoughts?????
  7. Hi all, My r33 gts-t is crunching second.I have replaced the oil with redline and its still doing it. Sometimes a little notchy into third as well. all other gears seem pretty ok although sometimes its a little nobby into 4th. Anyway my clutch friction point is reasonably close to the floor. probably only 20% of the way up and it is completely engaged. Could this cause my crunch problem? Is it worth me geting it adjusted and the system bled? PS if I Shift out of first into Neutral then blip the throttle and then continue the shift it seems to not crunch, its just a pain! Thanks
  8. what am i looking at roguhly for a new box? if I look after it how long can I drive it for like this? also someone said that the reason this happens (the notch slash light crunch is because the nulon teflon treatment coats the synchros, now they are so slippery there is not enough friction for them to work properly and hence they crunch. this really only started since i put the nulon in. i have since drained it and put the redline in, willthe nulon eventually break down and go away?
  9. yeah its definately much better but not perfect. just being pedantic, it is still the same when cold (but if i double clutch its ok) is this normal? or do people have no probs when cold who did beforehand? when warm its pretty good now
  10. yeah thats true, but I bought this one because it is so clean and tidy. it really is one of the best r33s I have ever seen. even a police offiecer said "Ive pulled over alot of r33s and this si the cleanest one Ive seen" thats the only reason I would stick with it
  11. Mate just let me know what you want for it, ill pay for postage. If they are too expensive here ill get one from the wreckers. Send us a pic and price thanks Jason
  12. So after you cut the wire and connect the solenoid to an earth, is there any benifit in earthing the other half of the cut wire that goes to the ecu? what sort of boost would I expect to get with a turbo back 3inch and r34 smic with this mod? would it be 9-10 on the stock turbo?
  13. yeah I thought that too but i did read that it takes a while to 'wear in' so i was keen to hear peoples experiences but generally I would have agreed with you
  14. unsure at thsi stage, would like to go a bit harder on it once its not a daily but for the short to mid term it will be staying with the std turbo and supporting mods cheers
  15. thanks for the replies guys. would you stick with a factory replacement one for those mods? or go for the bigger bosch ones? does anyone have part numbers?
  16. Hi folks, I have a fairly mild R33. Mods are limited to a full 3inch catback exhaust, std airbox with custom ram air scoop and BMC filter as well as an R34 intercooler. I plan to doing the free boost mod in the short term to get 7-8psi the whole time. (maybe 9-10 given my supporting mods?) Will the std fuel pump flow enough for this setup or will it need to be upgraded? If so what is the reommended part numbers? My current fuel pump appears in good nick, not noisy, and the car does not appear to be running out of fiel up top, pulls strong and no missing or running issues. Thanks Jason
  17. thats definately the plan longer term, I have already started saving as I want to do it all in one hit so all the supporting mods are there and in place. I was just thinking in the short term. I think Ill stick with the new sticky tyres and the free boost mod and see what I get out of it, hopefully the computer dosnt crack the sads.
  18. Hi guys, As recommended on the site, I changed from a VMX80/nulong G70 combo (as the box started crunching and becomming really notchy particually in 2nd and a little in 4th) Anyway I warmed the box up, drained the warm oil and left it over night to clear all the nulon out. Put the smurfs blood in and took it for a drive, I reckon the gearbox felt instantly a little more slick but the crunching was pretty much the same. How long generally does it take for this stuff to have the full effect. Have done about 150km so far. Also I know its a how long is a piece of string question but what is a full gearbox rebuild worth? Cheers
  19. to be honest not too much, I have just spent alot on the car and need to tone things down a little but pics and prices would be interesting thanks
  20. looks a little different i think, will have to keep looking for a turbo one, thanks though!
  21. Hi folks, My GTSt has the typical notchy, crunchy gearbox particually into second from first. I have just put soem redline oil in it but I want to reduce the wear on it where possilbe. Now I dont want to flat change without the clutch but I thought if I shift at about those revs it might put less strain on the synchros? is this true or not? If it is then what rpm is best first to second? Also what is the proper way to double clutch? This is my first manual car and I can drive it well normally but still trying get my head around all the rest of it. sorry for the newbie type questions but I know I will get the right answer here Thanks
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