TUF250

good point thanks for that, i just did some research and discovered they have a 55mm shorter wheel base so it probably wont bolt in. thanks! next question, I believe in keeping my cars regualy serviced so the car is getting a major as part of the modification list. As I am new to the skyline scene I need some advice/recommendations on a few things: - I will be using the drift filters from autobarn, I am interested in peoples experiences with oils. I was trying to decide between the 10W40 synthetic nulon and the 5W30 synthetic castrol edge? i have heard the edge can make the engine a bit noisy? is this true or rubbish? keen to hear what people recommend - thoughts on K&N panel filters? was keen to keep the stock airbox and CAI for police reasons and legality, also I want to keep as much cold air going in as possible - how often should you change the timing belts on these engines? - what is the recommended change period for fuel filters? - I like using the iridium spark plugs, the part number in the catalouge recommends the long life platinum NGK ones, are these a good way to go? thanks!

thansk for the replies, will a r33 gts-t echaust bolt staight onto a 4door r34 gt-t? reason i ask if my friend just told me he is wrecking out his skyline and has a 3inch system he is getting rid of complete with dump pipe

Ok the time has come to start modifying my R34 GT-T. I have done alot of reading through this site and just want to confirm what I have read and ask a few questions i couldnt find answers to. Note, my car is an R34 1998 GT-T 4 door auto Basically im looking for a good street package, I want it to be responsive as possible (so will keep the stock turbo) but still gain as much midrange to top eng power as I can. It has to be a compromise as its a daily unfortunately. I was imagining 200-220rwkw is realistic through the auto retaining/gaining as much responsiveness as possible What combos do people reckon without going over the top? - 3inch cat backs seem to be the way to go, is it worth replacing the dump pipe for that level? (are they a big restriction on these?) - is it worth getting a high flow cat for this power level? - I was thinking of keeping the standard airbox (as i want as much cold air as possible) and just getting a high flow filter in the box - Intercooler, i dont want to cut and sheet metal so what options do i have here? - boost T to maybe 10-12psi? is this the way to go, or will the computer reject this and I need a retune? - is it worth getting the car retuned for these mods? what do people think of this combo, open to any thoughts, experiences and suggestions as this is my first turbo car and my first skyline also depending on what you read these engines produce 187 or 206kw? whats the factory output on the 1998 auto gt-ts? thanks!

so there is no such thing as one of these without a wing from factory? its a 4door if that makes a difference?

hi all, I am getting an R34 GT-T auto. It dosnt have the factory boot spoiler. I like them and would like to put one on. Are there indents or markers where the holes would normally go for boot lids with them? Just so i know where to drill the holes? if not is there a template going around as to where to drill them? thanks Jason

can anyone confirm if all R34 gt-t autos are 206kw? i have heard they are but some people say the early ones (1998) were 187 still?

anyone know what diff ratio the R34 GT-T autos have?

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any idea what diff ratio the r34 gt-t autos have?

thanks for the input so far, keen to hear from more people, cheers

Hi all, I am looking at buying an R34 GT-T. I was wondering if anyone can tell me the diff ratios of both the auto and manual if they are different? What would you be looking at price wise, to convert an auto to manual in terms of labour? (after buying a conversion kit) I have heard people complain of the sluggishness of the shifts in the autos when in tiptronic mode, is this the same when driving in 'Drive' on the other hand I have heard people say what a great auto they are? finally how does the performance of the auto versions compare against other popular cars? (trying to give myself an idea of what base I have to work with) Very keen to buy one as I lvoe the shape and do some useful street mods to it look forward to everyones replies Thanks

thanks for the input so far fellas. I have a couple more questions - what diff ratio do the Auto R34 GT-Ts run? is it different to the manual one? - people have complained about the shift lag in the tiptronic mode is this so when driving normally in 'Drive'? - how much slower are these than manual GT-Ts? and on the road what sort of cars do they compare to in performance terms (auto again) - would it be possible and approx how expensive to convert one of these to manual down the track? thanks Jason

are the shifts still slow when out of the tiptronic mode? any other experiences with r34 gt-t autos? interested in modifications and resultant perfomance also with the auto

Hi Everyone, I am putting my car up for sale. I love this car to bits, it’s so well looked after and I will be genuinely very sad to see it go. This is a very original car. There is a good chance these will become some sort of collectable in the future. The car also comes with original logbooks and even the business card of the salesperson. Note: I have kept all the original parts, anything that was changed I have kept the original of so the car can be returned completely to standard spec. I bought the car from the country where it spent its life in a garage being used as a weekend car for many years. 1997 EL XR8 Series One Auto with only 166,000ks - 166,000k 5.0 in very good condition. That is just run in for one of these things, easily do over 350,000ks if serviced. I have done a comp test which was exactly even on all cylinders (has No tappet noise, smoke, knocks and pulls very strongly, it is an absolute gem of a motor) - Car serviced meticulously (new iridium plugs, eagle 8.8mm leads, new coil, new dizzy rotor and cap, new coolant temp sensor, have flushed and changed coolant (nulon), flushed and changed engine oil (penrite synthetic every 5,000ks) - The diff was rebuilt with 3.45 gears a while back and serviced regually with nulon synthetic oil (diff is absolutely silent) - Rebuilt auto and torque converter std specification (still under warranty) - Brand new starter motor - Exhaust (Best I’ve ever heard, has that old v8 sound which is so hard to get on these modern engines, it gets so many looks when cruising) The system has cost me a fortune and includes - Genuine EL GT extractors which are ceramic coated, New high flow cats, twin 2 1/4 system all the way to the rear (that’s right no merge proper v8 twin system), a H pipe for torque and one high flow muffler each side - K&N filter - Factory Tint - Camber kit installed 3,000ks ago on both sides - Lowered professionally by Advantage Suspension with King spring superlows in the front and lows in rear (legal height) with matched GT Sports Gas shocks all round - GENUINE EL GT wheels with factory lock nuts, a bit of gutter rash but in great condition - Tyres are near new 90% all round - Interior is absolutely immaculate, no marks at all, air con works and is cold, all power windows work and do not stick like many do. - Comes with all tickford interior features, momo wheel, sports seats, tickford 6 gauge dash etc - Paint is in good condition, has the stripes repainted recently as well as the rear bumper due some damage from a shopping trolley (note the only thing wrong with the car at all is a few little blemishes on the pain, a couple of little trolley dings (barely noticeable) and one 50c sided dint on the drivers front guard, very smooth and no paint damage the dint doctor said it can be popped straight out just haven’t gotten around to booking it in - Series 2 tickford 'shark fin' spoiler - CD player with 6x9s in rear and sub with amp (will reduce price a little if the buyer wants these removed Car is also very economical. I drive around town mostly and get consistent 11.9-12.3 lts per 100klms. On a recent trip to Portland it returned 450ks out of just over half a tank. Car is always run on Shell 98 V Power. As you can see below this is a really good example of what is becoming a rare car. Mechanically the thing is absolutely perfect and a pleasure to drive as stated I will be genuinely sad to see it go. As stated I have all the original bits which are included in the sale. The XR has 12 months of rego and I can organise a RWC in the sale price. Looking for 11,999 I am a little negotiable but all low ball offers will be ignored Also keen to swap with cash either way as required for a really neat turbo R33/R34 manual or SR20 powered Silvia in good nick Vehicle is located in SE suburbs Melbourne and can be viewed at request Contact Jason on 0431 286 689 via text or call or PM me on the forum Thanks for looking

yeah i have heard that about odometers, do they get woulnd back alot when imported, are we talking 20,000 or 100,000? how do you find your 34 gt-t auto compares with other cars on the road for acceleration and performance? my XR8 is auto and given the sought of driving i do there are some real benifits to having the auto. are they able to handle power upgrades well (the autos) without risk of damage, i would be looking at similar mods, exhaust, fornt mount, intake mods (probably with the airbox in place) and maybe a touch of boost

Hi folks, I am new here and must say what a great forum. I currently own a really schmik EL XR8 with tasteful mods but have been bitten by the turbo bug after driving in a mates 180sx and am looking to buy a skyline in the near future. Given the proces they go for and price that I can sell mine for I am looking at either a schmik series 2 R33 gts-t or a early R34. these are my questions: - what is the performance of the auto R34s vs. the manual ones? i know the auto model has the 4.3 diff gears as opposed to the 4.1s which would help - I have seen some R34s sold as 4spd autos and some as 5 spd autos? how do i pick the difference by looking at the car and what are these 5 spd autos liek compared to the 4spds? - also considering a clean r33 ser 2 manual. any particular problems here to look out for other than hugly modified or thrashed cars? - also what sort of fuel economy do people get out of their skylines? i know some people who complain about the fuel economy? basically im looking for a good daily with mild to moderate street performance will be the plan. any info would be appreciated -

so your saying that the R32s GTS4 and GTR use a RWD system but in certain conditions, i assume heavy acceleration they apply drive to the wheels as well? can this be turned to RWD only? any idea on the diff ratio of these turbo R32s? cheers

havnt decided, i will have a budget which may require me to wait for a bit before buying. do you have one in melb that you are selling?

I am looking at a R32 GTS4-T BNR32 i am curious to know is these are constant all wheel drive or can they be selected to both rear wheel or all wheel? i have seen before that they can be selected to either? my second question is what does BNR32 stand for? My last question is what are the diff ratios in the turbo R32s? both the rear wheel drive gts-ts and the GTS4-T version? Looking to buy an 89 model, is there anything specific that i should be wary of when looking? Does the RB20 have a timing belt or chain? if a belt then how regually should these be changed? cheers all

thanks for the responses guys. good to hear they are such a durable car are they known for any common faults, things to look for when buying? what would i expect to pay for a really tidy stock one with 100-150 thousand on it (gts-t manual) am i much better off spending the extra on an R33 GTS-T? comming from a V8 Fairlane i like the idea of a light car that handles, hence the R32

Hi all, Im new to the forum. Looking forward to spending some time digging through the threads, seems to be alot of good information here! I am currently an owner of an older V8 falcon and have enjoyed modifying it and although I am happy with the car I have always wanted a turbo skyline to experiment with. I like the idea of a torqy, light weight car that handles! I dont have a huge amount of money to spend as I am paying off other debt that is more important sadly. I like the look of the R32 GTS-Ts and the GTRs (unfortunately these are out of my price range) I was hoping that over the next few months while I look that I might come accross a tidy GTS-T with a GTR body kit. My question is how much should I expect to spend on one and what are the common things that go wrong with them? ie what am I up for in the future and what should I look for when shopping around? I am not a hard driver of cars but enjoy performance. are these cars durable? it seems that you dont see many around with more than the 180,000 mark? is this because they become too troublesome afterwards? i also heard the 5spds are problematic is this true? what else is known for being problematic? please feel free to dispel any myths, I am very keen to get one but want to make the right choice or be told dont bother get a newer R33? Cheers and I look forward to any input Regards Jason