TUF250

grae35, what do you think of the manual, good gearbox, your happy with it? I personnally would prefer the manual but depending on the missus the 5 speed might be the go. How do you find the performance of the 6 speed on the road? I have only ever driven an auto 350z. what year did the series 2 start? also I notice some has single and some have duel exhausts, what models had the twin system? also I read that you can put standard 350z springs in for a 1 inch drop all round, is that true? what is the power and torque output on these vq35s? generally speaking are people having trouble sourcing spare parts? also i notice that some people said these dont come with cruise control but on some adds i am seeing cruise control listed and can see the buttons on the steering wheel, whats the go here? thanks

I would be looking at a 4 door sadly as it will become a family car eventually. can the 4 doors come in 5speed? what are peoples thoughts on the 5 speed and the 6 speed?

yeah the price is the main attraction. i have been doing some reading and the cvt 8speed seem alot of trouble. how can you pick the difference by looking at the car? im sure alot of owners wouldnt know the difference so would want to be sure of the 5 speed cheers

Hi all, I currently have an R33 gts-t. My partner and I are looking to buy a 350GT V35 and ill keep the skyline as a weekend toy. Wanted to know a little about the cars, I have searched through google for reviews and such but there really isnt alot of info out there. Was curious to hear about: - what people think about the cars as a performance/daily driver? - I was after the VQ35 (have driven a 350z and loved the engine) what are these like to live with, fuel economy performance etc? - gearboxes are a trciky one, can someone explain a little about the GT8 box. also I would like to know peoples thoughs about the 5speed auto and the 6 speed manual - are there any common failure points on the car? (eg. my r33 is known for coils and broken exhaust studs) - do none of them have LSDs? - also it is common for r33s to have their clocks wound back when imported, i see alot of low k v35s for sale is it likely they have been wound back too? - I hear the auto ones can do 6 flat to 100, can this be improved on with the typical exhaust intake mods? any info or links to good threads or sites would be appreciated. thanks Jason

sorry to hear thats terrible news. shattering for the owner and the shop. just a noob question, what is the pump that is connected to the crank pulley via that belt? is it an oil pump or something?

what about a normal vac leak, say near the manifold, would this cause an issue?

would a vac leak cause those symptoms? i have no idea im just curious myself.

it is a series 2. has new plugs and hae checked the coils. I actually found a vaccume leak this morning. I have fixed it at work. Would this cause my problem? it was a decent split in the hose. Looking forwrd to the drive home to test it

that would be great! please keep me posted, very happy to buy an AFM just want to make sure its worth the money

The more I think about it the more I wonder if the AFM is on its way out. Seems to explain alot, too many people dont have issues with their cars in the conditions that I am. thoughts?

Hi, I am chasing an Air Flow Meter to suti a S2 (pink lable) air flow meter as I think mine is dying. Would like one off a low k car that has only run a paper filter. Willing to pay postage Thanks Jason

Yeah I have a boost gauge (not an expensive one) but it does show 5 then 7. I have cleaned my AFM before and have reset ECU. Timing was done by sabbaddin automotive when I had my timing belt changed. Is this problem more likely to be my AFM or the ECU? I might change whichever it is over as I dont really want to get a tune just yet with such basic mods, rather wait until I have something more substantial. Thanks for the replies so far

Hi all, I have a S2 Manual R33 GTS-T Mods are: 3inch turbo bach exhaust, high flow filter (BMC), R34 SMIC GT-T, Walbro 255lt/hr pump and a full service inc timing belt, plugs etc. I have been getting the R&R flat spot on cold nights (sub 10 degrees in melb at the moment) and the other night hit what I have since discovered is Air flow cut (maxing out the AFM). The car runs std boost (5/7psi solenoid) Some people run 12psi with no problems so I dont uderstand why mine is doing it? I dont want anymore pwoer than this I just want it to be right with the standard boost (its a daily) Is it worth swapping the ECU or AFM over? I have heard they can be hit and miss (some will carry on like mine and some wont?) or is it time for a remap? I dont mind getting a remap but with these mods im suprised I need one>? Thanks Jason

Hi all. The oil pressure gause (facotry cluster one) on my S2 r33 gts-t is very inconsistant. I run a semi-syn oil and change it every 5000ks, never low and check levels once a week so I know my oil level is always perfect. My oil pressure gauge however is odd. Some days it will read around 4kg/cm2 when cruising and others less than 2. sometimes high at idle sometimes not. These variations can be seen on cold days hot days, there just isnt a pattern. I know they are not accuraate gauges (as found by my search) but are they prone to changing readings form one day to another? Just want to be sure this isnt something to worry about thanks

yeah wont be modding the car anymore from here, just the 10psi solenoid and a toshi remap which I assume will get rip of my flatsport problems. was really curious to know what it was that my car did and why?

Hi all. I have an R33 S2 GTS-T Manual - Fully services with new plugs (0.9 gap heat range 6 NGK) - 3 inch Turbo Back exhaust (bellmouth type dump pipe) - K&N Pod (clean AFM regually) - R34 GT-T SMIC The car runs great, real smooth, good on fuel (98only), NEVER backfires, misses or splutters! Note the car runs std boost (confirmed with an aftermarket boost gauge) but I have done the free boost mod (gives 7psi through the whole rev band, not the factory 5/7 method) Now my car seems to suffer from mild R&R on really cold nights (sub 10degrees, which is common in melbourne at the moment). The car will take off hard, flatten in the midrange, not misfire just seem flat, then pick back up in the top of the rpm band. Tonight I took off from the lights, got into second (had three people in the car, more load than usual?) and at about 3000rpm I stepped on the pedal (to show off a bit ) and the car took of then, bang, hit some sort of hard cut. It was like I rapidly took my foot of the accelerator andthe whole drive line banged. After this the car drove fine but I didnt boot it again as I was worried. What has caused this and what is it? R&R? Boost cut? (because of the 7psi in the midrange when it expects 5?) Any thoughts? Also someone said that all ECUs respond differently to this mode, mine seems sensitive as all it takes is a cool night to carry on yet some people can run 12psi in winter with no problems and more mods than me??? Is it worth swapping my ecu for another one? thanks!

which might offset alot of the gain, might give it a shot but might not be worth while until its tuned

this mod has been around for a while now, how have peoples solenoids held up with being held open 100% of the time when it should normally be momentarily? any solenoid failures?

yeah thats fair enough, what would i expect to pay to get the afr checked on a dyno? $100ish??

thanks guys, might give it a go, jsut worried about getting a flat spot which i currently dont have. Have been looking into toshi's remaps (business trader on this site) anyone had any experience with his retunes with a similar combo as mine? ps my car has a new walbro fuel pump now

I am keen to change my power steering fluid on my r33 gts-t s2 as it has gone a little off colour, now tending to be more brown than red. Castrol recommend just their plain power steering fluid, the red stuff. is this ok for the skylines? My next question is what is the best way to change it? Happy to flush it a few times if need be. It it easiest just to undo the hose from the bottom of the reseviour and refill then repeat a couple of times? cheers

yeah only reason for using this over EBC is factory look. I might give it a shot, no point in doing it yet if im going to hit R&R as i already suffer from this on really really cold nights. What would i expect to pay for a basic tune (remap) on a baisc setup like mine, say nistune remap

Hi all. I have a S2 R33 GTS-T with the common mods: 3 inch turbo back, high flow filter and an R34 SMIC, std 5/7psi boost. The car has also been serviced thouroughly, new plugs (0.9mm), timing belt, timing set, all new oils etc etc The car runs great! and performs very well and smoothly given the basic mods, for what it is Im thrilled with it. I have just bought an R32 GTS-T actuator (10psi). I want to put this in the car, my plan was to put it in and baby it down to status dyno and get the AFRs checked and make sure its all safe. Now my question is, I know it will not be tuned and will run rich but will I see alot of improvement over stock? or will it overfuel so badly that I might as well not do it and wait until I can afford a nistune? keen to hear peoples thought Regards.

just after a rough figure, but 'roughly' what does it cost to highflow and rebuild the rb25 turbos?

Hi folks, Im most likely moving to South Australia for work. Curious to find out a little about transfering from vic rego for my r33. Are you required to have yearly RWC in SA? Is it expensive to re-register a car (as ill have to transfer from my vic plates) Are RWC tough compared to vic? (for those who ahve done both) What does the average rego cost in the Adelaide area? (about a 20-30km radius from town) Thanks!! Jason