TUF250

i got a 3inch turbo back on mine, it is barely louder than stock (two proper mufflers), just a bit deeper. What I did notice was a big bump up in performance. definately worth it!!

was the afm sold?

i have seen this a couple of times on the forums, is it a common thing? what causes it?

yeah thats the site, top bloke!! 10/10 this stuff really does work too!

i live in endeavour hills but work in mentone or pakenham depending on the day. im available any time

Hi all, Want to get a REAR strut brace for my series 2 r33 gts-t. Have seen them on ebay for $90 new so I thought I might see if there is a well priced second hand one before I jump into buying a newie. Let me know what you have, will pay for postage from anywhere Jason 0431286689

last bump before they go on ebay. open to offers. Thanks

last bump before they go on ebay. open to offers. Thanks

open to offers, last bump before it goes on ebay. Cheers

checked mine again today and the same, std wiring and getting 14v at idle. This is checking the light green coloured wire that goes into the fuel tank. is this the main supply for the pump?

i found a thread when searching. You use a paperclip or similar on the consult plug, bridge the bottom left two pins (thats if the mount is on the top) for 2 seconds, release the bridge, the check engine light flashes the codes and then bridge for another two seconds to clear codes. seemed to work for mine (1997 S2)

Price Drop $200. Very good condition guys, no shaft play, bearings spin very freely

want this stuff gone guys, any offers?

had a buyer that fell through so back up for sale

app0121 sold and posted Cheers other still for sale

ok so when you get the error codes fron the flashing check engine light they are just the stored codes?how does it decide what to store and what not to?

Hi all, I am selling the Stainless Steel Muffler out of my car. It is a straight through design. Extreamly high flow. Perfect condition. Only selling due to bigger setup being installed. Looking for $125 ono Jason 0431286689 [email protected] note, im not on the forums alot so for a quick reply text or call me Cheers

wow check that dip out!! thanks for the information paulr33. Very nice to have that cleared up. seems to be alot of confussion in the threads that I have been searching through as to the differences. When you say power off the car, do you mean just switch it off via ignition switch or actually power down the ecu and reset? I assume you mean ignition just want to be sure cheers mate

great information guys, this exaplains some of my problem that I am having trouble resolving. If you send the computer into R&R or similar. Will this be registered with a fault code? I ran my codes the other day (using the paperclip method and engine fault light) and got code 55 - no fault found.

Hi all, I have been searching for an hour now and cant find the answer to this question. I understand why r&r happens, cold night, afm maxes etc. I have been having this problem, well the problem started one cold foggy night in melbourne. Ever since the car hasnt been the same again. Does the ecu store the r&r protection mode or should it go back to normal after the engine ahs been shut off and restarted? Cheers

did you ever find out what was causing this mate? i have the exact same problem!

question, in the r33 gts-t. is it the green wire your checking from the fuel pump? If it is I checked mine and I had 11.9 off and 14.05 running which should be fine from the sound of it?

calm down, I was only offering a suggestion as opposed to attacking people. I just thought it might be a helpful tool. If not then it dosnt go ahead, I was jsut trying to contribute. Question for others. What is the recommended limit for the walbro unit (the common 255lph one i think it is?) how much performance will it flow over the stock unit?

I am getting all the supporting mods doen to my car at the moment. Want it to be running perfect before I book in my dyno tune. I got a copy of the nissan workshop manual which said that the AFM should read 0.3v 'key on, engine off' and 1.1v at idle. The workshop manual dosnt give a +/- tolerance it just says 'approx' mine was reading 0.25v 'key on, eng off' and 1.22v at idle (warm) how does this sound? at what point would they be considered out of spec? just dont want to pay for a tune booking to find i need a new afm. out of curiosity what does a new afm cost? cheers

did you ever solve this?