TUF250

i know that it can be, I have looked through alot of threads, I did also find the 'fuel pump bible' thread which was quite good. I just thought if it could all be compiled and put in the FI guide it might stop alot of new threads being started. Just a thought, I have learnt what I need to know so it dosnt matter to me anymore thought it just might make things easier in the future

which pumps are direct fit, no mods neccessary for a 33 gtst? Looking for something to support about 200-220rwkw max I head the 910s are direct fit? 200LPH Would these all work ok on the stock wiring system? ie 11.8V? thanks

I had a thought everyone. I have been researching fuel pump upgrades for my R33. There are sooooo many thread that I have read through. I thought maybe someone with the know how could fill this in a it could be put in the FI guide for future users. I was thinking a list of the common fuel pumps that bolt in, direct fit. Have a link to the fuel pump re-wire thread Also to have the flow rates and how that equates into rwkw goals for each of the major pumps (ie. standard vs 040, 910, walbro etc) Maybe like this. Standard R33 Pump - xxxLPH - xxx rwkw max Bosch 910 Pump - xxx LPG - xxx rwkw max etc I would be very interested in this information and im sure others would too. Just a thought

similar issue to mine, seem to be hitting R&R. Car seems flat through the rev range even though its on standard boost (confirmed by an aftermarket boost gauge) reset ecu, car came alive again, after a couple of days was back to its normal self

how do you check afm wiring? can you test voltages at idle to work if its ok? would be interested in a description of how to test if the afm is working, having a similar issue in mine

it just feels flat, no missfire no pop crackles, nothing. Its smooth as silk. However its down on power. When I reset the ecu the other day it went back to its normal self and was gre4at but by the following night it was 'flat' again. So just chasing the fault. I just have a calibre digital boost gauge. shows 5 to 4500rpm then 7 so seems accurate, the car just isnt spiking. Not sure if the car stays in R&R mode once it happens or if it resets after you shut the car off?

Hi folks, I have an issue with my R33 GTS-T that im chasing, basically I want to test the AFM and fuel pump for correct operation and correct voltages etc. Can someone explain where you have to test them (which wires), what conditions and what I am expecting to see? Any help would be great. Did a search but all I could find was GTR stuff and not sure if they are the same Cheers

Hi all, I have an R33 GTS-t with the following work done. 3inch turbo back exhaust, K&N pod, r34 GT-T cooler. I have done the following service items - timing belt, tensioners, seals - new plugs bcpres-11 (gapped to 0.9) - cleaned AFM (several times) - cleaned all induction piping - new o2 sensor - cleaned AAC valve - oils etc Now the car usually runs really well Recently it has developed what can only be described as R&R mode however the car is on stock boost (as confirmed by an aftermarket boost gauge) Interestingly the car also maintains 7psi at full throttle even though everyone isists it should spike higher with these mods... I assumed I had an over sensitive ECU and it was hitting R&R due increased airflow. That was until someone suggested it might be sensing detonation and going into a conservative fuel map. This scared me! So I will check that the knock sensors are connected (a problem that I read during a serch that caused this) Just on the odd occassion the car will start fine (first start in the morning) then stall, and yes I gave it time to prime. The car will then start normally. What would cause this? Fuel Pump? Dead AFM? Would it be anything that would cause my strange R&R at standard boost problem? Now if it is fuel pumps can someone suggest the part number for the common recommended pumps (bosch, walbro, tomei etc) their part numbers for the ones that bolt in, no mods required. Looking for capacity to run about 10-12 psi tuned with the above mods. Also would appreciate any recommended places in melb for getting these at a good price Thanks!

if your negotiable on the strut brace im interested

would a dying fuel pump cause this? car has a new fuel filter but original pump.

yeah might be the way to go, would it be worth trying another ECU? do they tend to vary from one to another as to how sensitive they are? might get a new fuel pump too. anyone have the part number for the bolt in, no modification required walbro or bosch item?

thanks for the doc, interesting read. Its a tough one because there are no problems as such, no misfire, no stutter, no surge etc, if anyone else jumped in the car they would think it was perfectly normal. Question, if the car goes into one of these R&R modes due excessive airflow (eg. cold night) or due detonation will it stay in that mode indefinately unless the ECU is reset or does it return to normal once the car is restarted? I have done fuel filter, quality injector cleaner, cleaned afm, new airfilter (K&N), new plugs bcpr6es-11 gapped to 0.9, checked coils for missfire (none at all), new oxy sensor. whats the next logical step? fuel pump? what would be a sign that was failing? happy to spend the money just want to be heading in the right direction with it. Keen to get it tuned for my 10psi actuator soon so I want it to be all runing right before it goes in. Cheers Jason

would buying another second hand ecu be worth a try? I dont understand why it would be detonating. heat range 6 plugs, r34 cooler, freezing in melb at the moment, stock boost? what would cause detonation? frustrating problem

any other thoughts or similar experiences and solutions to this?

Hi guys, just some old unused parts here that I thought someone might need. All parts are brand new and sealed in their packets. ISO wiring harness suit nissan 1987 - 1994 part no. APP0121 - $10 Wiring harness suits Alpine 16pin audio units part no. APP8ALPH - $10 Aftermarket radio adaptor - suits european antennas part no. AP349 - $5 Do the lot for $20 Happy to post all items or can be picked up from south eastern suburbs Jason 0431286689

offers?

wheels are sold, everything else is still available

its all connected to the turbo and it is an R32 (10psi) one. So I shouldnt be able to operate the mechanism by hand from the sounds of it? Certainly seems still just watn to make sure thats normal

thanks for the replies guys, you can see why Im so confused??? ok in answer to your questions: - it is a series 2 and I am in vic unfortuanately - checked for obvious boost leaks, intercooler piping etc and nothing that I could find, idles normally too so it couldnt have a huge leak - I do have an aftermarket gauge, digital too, max 7 which is a suprise from what I have read. Maybe the solenoid has failed? and due mods 5 has actually become 7?? - fuel is strictly mobil 98, was using BP but seemed to get less milage for the same performance that was the 98 stuff too keep the replies comming

Hi all, Went to a wreckers to get a second hand turbo for a mates skyline. The turbo appears to be in good condition but i cant push the wastegate actuator shaft open by hand. As in I cant force the wastegate open by pulling the actuator shaft from the lever to the actual actuator. Is this normal or does it sound stuffed? Just didnt want to pay premium money for a screwed one. Cheers Jason

Hi all, I have a flat spot problem, I have searched so much and nothing quite matches mine, particually because mine is still on the standard boost (confirmed by an aftermarket boost gauge!) Need the help of the pros on this one as I have run out of ideas. So; My car is an R33 GTS-T manual, only 90,000ks and in immaculate condition. Serviced thoroughly inc timing belt, tensioners etc, timing set professionally. Mods include: - 3inch turbo back (bellmouth type dump pipe with an xforce cat, the cat could be old im not sure) - K&N pod filter (also have the airbox which I have experimented with, amde no difference to this problem) - R34 GT-T intercooler Now the car developed a flat spot one day, not just in the midrange but the whole powerband seemed to go a bit flat, just didnt have that pull it used to. In saying that it did not pop, stutter, spit, nothing, runs smooth as silk just seemed a bit flat. So I started to experiment. I cleaned the AFM, changed oxy sensor and nothing. I checked the plugs at night for cross fire and nothing. Then I bought new plugs bcrp6rs-11s and gapped them down to .9. this made it feel a touch better on boost but not like it did before. Then I thought I would reset the ECU, left the batt disconnected all day and it was great! back the way it was before and more! I was thrilled but that night I took my cousing out for a little drive to show him the car and it went back to being flat again (it was a cold night, 5-6 degrees) So this sounds like R&R from what I have read which is fine, but here is the catch, not only am I only running the r34 smic but the car is only on standard boost (5psi then 7 after 5000rpm) Everyone who hits r&r seems to be on 10psi or more? everyone who has this problem seems to have upped the boost. Now another issue here is that I am only getting 7 as confirmed by an aftermarket gauge, everythign I ahve read says that with these mods I should be getting more like 8-9? So I am confused here and happy to hear peoples thoughts? Regards Jason

Hi all, I have an R32 GTS-T Turbo for sale. (16V comp housing) I purchased this for a project that never came through, I went out of my way to find one in excellent condition. Was sold to me with a warrenty. It has NO shaft play, NO oil in the turbine and NO cracks or damage what so ever Only catch is that it did not come with the actuator but there is no reason why you cant use your old one as these arnt the bits that fail (this is what I was planning to do) Also includes: - standard dump pipe (if req) - all banjo bolts and dump pipe bolts - heat shield bracket Havnt taken photos as I figure it really does explain itself but if required I am happy to send/post them up Can be picked up from narre warren / mentone or pakenham depending on the day / work Very happy to post at the buyers expense. Looking for $250 given the excellent condition but I am negotiable for a quick sale Jason 0431286689 [email protected]

mine is the same, someone told me it was the input shaft bearing but i dont know what this is and why it grinds, has done it since I bought it

Hi all, I am selling my NGK Platinum Spark Plugs PFR5G-11 These are only 2,500 kms old. Only selling due to more serious engine upgrades. These suit stock or mildly modified RB25s. Great plug, improved throttle response and smooth idle. Good for up to 120,000ks Normally $22 each - $132 Will Sell for $50 the lot. Will post Jason 0431286689 [email protected]

some people suggest loose bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold. I have the same noise, bit like a shreiking noise? always on light throttle. Interestinly even with flow mods I cant get mine past either and it should be according to others on the site. I checked those 4 bolts, all were tight. I have also check for piping leaks, nothing. Checked shaft play, absolutely perfect, no smoke either etc. So if it helps Im in the same boat. maybe check those things you might have more luck although it didnt work for me