MattSR

What turbo, engine, RPM, cam profile are you running to get those figures? I cant really contribute as I only have a stock VTEC Civic

Thats a IHI turbo rebadged as a Borg Warner turbo. think early 90's A'PEXi aftermarket stuff, and thats what you've got

I disagree totally. Do you think JUN havent thought of this already? old Mr tanaka didn't get to where he is now by being secretive and paranoid... obviously when you sell a product, the R&D that has gone into it is now out in the public domain, and is free to be copied... Lots of other people have these plenums too, and even if some chinese guy does copy it, he doesnt know what the engineer was thinking when he designed it, so the copied product will never, ever be as good as the original. It reminds me of Mario when he first started out 4-5 years ago with GTR700 - he wouldnt show photos of the fancy cooling system that everyone now knows about. it still doesnt mean that people know how it works, or how to do the mod properly. just my 2c.. Cheers, Matt

You obviously dont know anything about your own suppliers if you're STILL referring to his business as Plazmaman..... Unfortunately, my first impressions of you john havent gone away, and every time I see you or hear your name, you do something to justify what I think.

The GT35R will do that no problems.

I agree with that statement cubes - for this reason I would just go for the 1.06 and be done with it.. Just for interest, did you know that Honda developed 3 different turbine A/R's for Ayrton Senna and Alain Prost in the 87/88 season one small, one medium, and one large. The engineers assumed that the slow speed circuits would easier with the small A/R, and high speed circuits would be faster with the large.. After several tests, Senna found the car was more progressive and easier to drive in all situations with the large A/R, so they ran with it at every race and shelved the small and medium housings. Cheers, Matt

agreed.. what was the T88 on a 13B like?

"If thats the case, you're going to have more than a CA18 or SR20 to get anywhere near spooling it up." Really? I know one person that built a Sierra Cosworth 2 litre engine with a Garrett T76, and it made full boost at 5500rpm with a power band from 5500-10,000rpm. Went like the clappers.... and was a very fun car! Dont forget, people put T88-34d's and HKS T51R SPL's on SR20's and occasionally CA18s as well!

Yay... My turbo model number is bigger than yours.....

Cams make a huge difference. I would definitely upgrade them to a set of 264's minimum on an engine like yours. Matt

Yes You Can BUt Its Not A Good Idea Cause The Ports And Valves Are Are Too Small, And You Have To Move Water Galleries And Stuff.

I hit a gutter in my Honda at 40km/h.. When I looked at the damage, I was sure it would cost 2-3k to fix. Smash repairer rang the other day, and it cost closer to $10k.. Thank god for insurance

Come on guys - look at the specs... 10 * 1600cc injectors..... On unleaded regular fuel (ie ELF or similar) thats enough injector capacity for 3200HP... On Methanol, they're big enough for around 1000hp or so.... Of course it runs methanol....

A 60-1 is just a compressor wheel..... you will need to add a TS04 compressor cover, and any one of the TO4 range of turbine wheels (N, O, P, Q trim) before you have a complete turbo... How well it works.. well.... that all depends on how well the housings/turbine wheels are matched to your setup. Cheers, Matt

Any engineer worth his salt will tell you that conrods fail on the overlap part of the cycle at top dead centre - nearly always Cheers, Matt

It will handle 375rwkw if tuned properly... You'll need bigger turbos and fuel system, etc, etc for sure.. What turbo/turbos are you planning on using?

Only difference is in the compressor cover.. The 'S' version has the anti surge comp housing.

Boost pressure has nothing to do with it - it's all about shaft speed. If you increase the VE of the engine (ie a set of cams, or new inlet manifold, or exhaust system) you will find that the turbo will now fail at, say, 11 or 12 psi, as higher engine VE = more compressure RPM for the same boost. Cheers, Matt

Also - Power FC can be easily removed, whereas MoTeC needs to have the exisiting loom modified, or ideally a new one made from scratch. Cheers, Matty

MoTeC M4 is worth around $2200 without any options. In terms of idle quality, build quality and performance, Power FC and MoTeC are on par. The advantage that MoTeC has is that you can configure it to do more things - such as control a shift light, run traction control, wideband lambda, and in extreme cases use it to trigger and air shifted gearbox... In my opinion, PowerFC is ideal for a street car and most weekend track cars, but for a more dedicated race car that needs laucnch control etc, etc... go for the MoTeC. The probblem is that the M4 is designed with 4 cylinder engines in mind - it only has 4 injector and ignition outputs. For a 6 or 8 cylinder engine, you need a M48 or even metter an M800.. Cheers, Matty

Sweet - thanks for that sydneykid

Doughboy - stop infecting my threads with your bullshit.

I don't think that's right... the header tank that i'm talking about is at full cooling system pressure.... if the hose at the bottom dumpted to atmosphere, the cooling system would empty itself in seconds. The hose at the top of the tank vents to atmo, but i'm wondering where the hose at the bottom - as the picture shows - goes to.

Hello everyone, If you look at the following pic, theres a little coolant tank thingy on the far left hand side. Various water outlets from the head go into the side of this tank, but where does the hose coming out of the bottom of this little tanky thing go to... I would've thought that it went into the radiator inlet, but it seems to go nowhere.... Can anyone explain this to me? Cheers, Matt

Sydneykid - is that what a 'death spiral' is?