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MattSR

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Everything posted by MattSR

  1. Yes. The one that came with your car is fine. If you wish to do some tuining of your Power FC yourself, then you will need a wideband O2 meter
  2. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=109588&hl=
  3. It was a twin T78 (Seventy-Eight) 2JZ supra... The bigger turbos place less thermal stress on the engine, which is important when you are at 1200hp for 3-4 mins at a time. The crappy powerband is not an issues, cause they use another car to push it up to 100km/h at bonneville anyway.
  4. Gold!
  5. Such as....?
  6. It would probably take around 10,000rpm to spool a pair of T88's
  7. I have to agree with everything in this thread. Ive asked SK a few questions via PM and on the board, and everytime he has answered with a straightforward, no bullshit answer - hes set me straight a few times as well. Another vote for SK
  8. Any plans to finish the translation?
  9. Yes, NOx goes through the roof when you go lean
  10. Do they need machining to fit?
  11. Yes, thats why you need to adjust the airflow meter voltage curve inside the PFC to suit.
  12. Any AFR that uses stock sensors is a waste of time anyway. Invest in a tech edge or LM1 wideband instead
  13. Some would say thats the mark of a good tuner
  14. What is the CHRA number? its located in the middle of the turbo
  15. NIB, Block guard kits (such as the Nuformz) for Hondas are not as good as you would think... People simply look at it and assume its stronger without considering what they really do... If OS can build an open deck engine that revs to 13k and makes over 1200hp without a problem then maybe there's something in that. maybe..
  16. Deck isnt Subaru slang... it simply refers to the top flat surface of the block that mates to the head gasket and cylinder head... T04gtr, If the open deck is inferior, then why did OS Giken choose it for their all-conquering RB30?
  17. Good to put some faces to names too
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  20. Its a temperature depedant resistor. its resistance in ohms varies depending on what temperature it sees. The correct way to test one is to remove the connector to it and test the resistance of the sensor. It should read a nominal value (ie for your particular car it might be 100ohms @ 25 degrees) that you will need to look up in a service manual. You need to use the ohms (resistance) setting of your multimeter. If the sender is screwed it will usually be open circuit (no reading at all) or short circuit (very low resistance, pnly a few ohms) You will always see 5 volts when its running as thats the voltage coming from the ECU to the sensor. Measuring the voltage between the battery and the back of the sensor is a meaningless reading BTW. Cheers, Matt
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