Birds

I can't hate Metallica, even with the Napster thing. The way I see it, they lost that war and someone else was eventually going to kick up a legal fuss, if not them. Was pretty much Lars' doing anyway. Having seen them live in the last few years, wow...to be playing the same music at that age and still be belting it out with the energy of 20 somethings doing their first gig...so impressed. They get played daily in our household. I think Korn counts as nu metal, but I love listening to them and others (Slipknot etc.) before a weights session at the gym.

It's also possible the box you most recently put in has tired bearings. But yeah consistently snapping axles comes from too much pressure - this is caused by A. Too much power / traction B. Misaligned parts or C. Driving the vehicle like you stole it.

Twin plate clutches aren't made to be slipped, it kills them quick Locked diff puts more strain on gearbox and axles Check that everything is lining up perfectly straight when it is installed 90% of the time in this situation, it is the driving style influencing it

Surprised you parked there after Leesh's Skyline got nicked from the airport and dumped in Meadow Heights Never again - we uber there now. Obviously a bunch of regulars poking around the airport stealing cars. And security there pretend like it's a rare / never happens occurrence...

In Australia, all of those cars would have been written off in the first 30 seconds

What vehicle / engine does the oil cooler sandwich plate fit?

Don't entirely hate it

Neighbour has an ex taxi AU wagon...yellow paint is a little faded, but a very rare car indeed...you just don't see them anymore. Have to give him a slab for an appearance but he'd pick you up and drop you off too.

KAAZ 1.5 way in my daily Best modification I did to the car, and I've done a lot. The handling dynamics are chalk and cheese. With a 1.5 way the chassis listens to you - even on the limits it's point and steer as long as you're good with your throttle and brake inputs. They are clunky for the first 2-3000km (read: someone repeatedly hitting the back of your car with a hammer when turning) but this gets significantly better as it beds in. Pro tip: ditch the stock 75w90 oil after run in (1000km) and use Penrite's 85w140 LS - it's thicker and quietens the diff, particularly after it gets hot. Don't need the clutches to bite so hard on the street. This goes for the Nismo 1.5 way too. It's now very friendly and streetable - probably helps I've learned how to drive it smoothly too. Low speed turns out of slip lanes when off-boost can occasionally feel like driving a locker - this is the only hindrance I notice these days.

victim of tampering

I got a 33 GTS-T with a genuine jasma exhaust

Knew they wouldn't last, lol...well done Matt!

No risk no return

Dude, don't sell these! Just bought a set myself and they are mesmerising Bargain. Can attest you won't find them anywhere else for this...

IMO hang onto it until the dawn of time...one day people will be looking hard and paying top dollar for good examples of these cars. They are already getting scarce!

Sounds like your tuner isn't too clued up!!!

Fark that radiator was a bargain, why do I miss this shit!!!

Probably better off fixing the engine issue mate; head gasket scares a lot of people even if it's a $1500-2000 fix with a mechanic and this car looks quite tidy from your pics. If only I had the space and could afford a third rego lol But yeah, get it fixed I reckon, could easily add 3k to the price and get it ...people just get a bit scared if they have to put in some work to get something 100%

Get a motorbike or a Honda

Perks of auto - are you going manual though?

For comparison sake - tapers in the top end, well before 6000rpm (my rev limit is 7500), but it's more linear and plenty of area under the curve = huge midrange to work with This is a 3071 equivalent turbo pushing only 15psi - rest goes out the large internal wastegate. With an extra 300cc, it's very odd that a 3076 shouldn't produce a similar curve for you - definite restriction but I don't think the turbo itself was the problem.

Less restriction I agree with, am all for the engine being able to breath and less stress on it and components, and if that makes more power up top then great - better to have and not need it...just feel like your setup is/was not reflecting what you desired in a vehicle. Turbos are always a compromise between lag and power; seems to me you're taking on unnecessary lag for a better top end that you can't/won't even use, when you could be looking at a wastegate or custom rear end solution to produce response without the detrimental restriction. This top end large turbo stuff makes sense in race cars, like the 80s rally cars that ran GT35 sized turbos on 1.5 engines etc. Street driven, occasional track cars work better with small turbos driven harder IMO. Be faster in most places rather than one place. Tony will tell you how much this helps me with the rolling drags for instance. Subaru, Mitsi and Mercedes have embraced this on their 2 litre engines which see 14-18psi+ in standard form with their small turbos.

You have added displacement from a stroker kit, this changes the dynamics and gives your engine a low-mid advantage over the standard engine - I would be taking advantage of this instead of worrying about the top end, where displacement means much less in turbo applications. As long as it makes the power you desire, who cares if you're shifting at less than 6000rpm?

I don't actually see the problem here, besides engine heat (in which case see the below). Yes the turbo is maxing out but the engine is still producing its max power across a 2500rpm band. Smaller turbo is giving about 600rpm better response too. It's not so different to a naturally aspirated dyno graph, which is what happens when you pair a small turbo with a large engine - linear power delivery, falls over up top. If power is tapering off then so too should boost to keep heat down, straight out the wastegate so as not to pose a restriction for engine breathing. A bigger rear end with the same comp housing I suspect would help this too.

Track is a different ballgame, however you could still short shift there...if you have a wide midrange powerband you don't need to wring the engine out to make it perform No different to a large displacement V8 maxing out at 5500-6000rpm, it doesn't need an 8000rpm top end cause torque to boot down low and mid