BstewyR33

I thought that's just what the cool kids did! - however I was reading somewhere that they had the hand brake cable hitting the drive shaft., not 100% certain of if that's possible Cheers mate will look into that possibility

Hey all - needing your help in identifying a ticking sound coming from under the car. No rocks/screws/sticks are caught in any part of the car. The ticking starts at around 70klms, with the noise being more noticeable driving on the highway next to the side rail of if a car/ truck goes past. I thought it could have been the brake pads - so I changed them (had them sitting in the garage so was a good excuse to change them over to cancel out that) I've zip tied the front under body plastic guard up in a few places thinking that was flapping about, it's definaetly a speed thing I believe because the noise isn't there when revving the car past a certain rpm. I thought it was possibly the electrical conduit that runs alongside the chassis rail under the drives side but I've zip tied the cables up to try and stop them from flapping about. For the life of me I can't figure out what or where the hell it is coming from, any suggestions appreciated. To my knowledge it's not wheel bearing related as its not a humming/whiring noise. A definite tick tick tick sound. Cheers for any input!

Brakes direct are in willawong so probably 20-30 mins outside of town - or order them online - should only take a day or 2 to get to you from their shop

if they are bendix pads, they'll squeal no matter what. ive had mine in now (ulitmates) for over a year now, and reversing they squeal, cold braking they squeal. they only time they don't squeal is when they've warmed up a bit driving moving forwards - still squeal when warm reversing though. i've got a set of the QFM's waiting to go in & an on car disk machine when i get some cash together for it.

that'd involve me spending money to improve sound quality out of stereo that's in it at the moment... no one wants to hear shit sound loud. but i like the cut of your jib

Thanks guys, I figured the poly bushes aren't going to be as quiet as the originals. Just didn't think there'd be this much noise with them done

recently had super pros fitted front and rear because the original bushes were fubar. When it's dry they are pretty loud squeak wise, when wet (ie: when raining) they quieten up heaps. Would I be right in thinking that not enough grease is on them? Or are super pros are generally noisey? Would spraying silicon spray help the noise at all? Any suggestions appreciated Cheers

Here's the message he replied to me with I know generally speaking OE means original equipment but I think in this case it may be original equivalent

Cheers lads, yea a cheap fix & cheap win for sure. Got quoted for a Genuine compressor from Japan - $2000ish A company on the Southwest of Brisbane had O/E for $695 or aftermarket for $595 A shop wanted to charge around $1400 to degas, rebuild, fit & regas.

Just as an update - I left the TB as it was tension wise to investigate the whining noise being something else. After doing the old metal pole onto the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, ac compressor and listening for any sort of noise - I couldn't find anything abnormal from any of those. Searched for any information on bearings that run off those belts and came to the conclusion it was the AC tension pulley. The main reason coming to this conclusion was that the noise didn't get loader on turning the steering wheel - cancelling the PS pump. It was any loader on start up or general running - cancelling out alternator and TB, it didn't get any louder when turning on and off the AC - cancelling out the compressor. The only bearing left was the tension pulley. Pulled it off - could hear that was rolling ruff ( when you hear what a new bearing sounds like - you know the sound it shouldn't make) I swapped this bearing out and no more whining sound, which I'm cheering about! The bearing itself was $7 from bursons (6301) The video is after everything the new bearing has been fitted to the pulley - no whining noise IMG_0135.MOV

To revive an old thread - used this tutorial the other weekend to do my 200K service The above question should have been answered by now - but if not, the CAS has slots for the 3 screws to secure it to the cam cover - making it adjustable. Put a mark between the CAS & the cam cover case so that it is set as it was prior to taking it off The crank- like the other 2 timing marks has a little dot on the outside of one of the teeth, get a light down there and look for it. One other thing to note after putting the belt on that I found on the nicoclub website, might explain the setting the tensioner a bit clearer I'll be taking the belt off and re doin it this weekend & remember to do what is mentioned in the picture above

Ahh bugga! So that's the Tb too tight then... Thanks for the reply mate - should be less a painful process second time around I guess

Been a long time since I've had to ask for any assistance from this forum but was hoping someone might be able to give me what they think the noise in the video could be. Basically I've done a timing belt change, new tensioner & idler pulley & new water pump (gates brand). I don't think I over tensioned anything - the TB was tight to get on but figured that would be the case for a new TB. All timing marks lined up as per the instructions in the service manual & old mates tutorial on how to do it. With my head down near the cams the sound definetly sounds like it's coming from under the cam cover - or could be from the front of the car somewhere (possible alternator bearing?) Any help on the topic is greatly appreciated. Cheers! trim.981641ED-F8C3-4985-B83D-7B163BF7E5FD.MOV

I had a compliance guy come out and drill 2 holes in the back parcel shelf of my 33 to use as anchor points. Even stuck a compliance plate on saying it's now compliant for more than 1 child seat. Not sure if that was really needed but at least its all legit .

Thought about trying it yourself? eBay has tint rolls for under $100 and the application kits for 20ish Killing surface rust - depending how deep, use kill rust then spray over with underbody spray i would have thought

Is the mixing vent cog spinning freely or can you hear a sound down behind your center console (head unit, control area etc)? If so youll need to fix that so the flap can open and let the heat in

I notice that there's a good tuners post but maybe mods can pin a post with the names of reputable shops that do good work? Not just tuning Help others find the right shops to send their cars

Yea see how you go with the grease. If you did the change over, Did you bed the brakes in? Apologies if these questions sound simple but just making sure you checked the obvious

Did you grease up the metal shims on the pads?

Kill rust is a clear solution you could try http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/exterior/Metal/Prepare/WattylKillrustRustEeter.html?preview=true Supercheap sells white kill rust epoxy enamel

Normally the first cpl of contacts of the pad is enough to get rid of it, it's like when you wash your car and the rotors get that brown tinge to it. It could also be your brake pads.

Constant or goes away? I'd say its surface rust on the rotors I notice that after I jump in my car (aftermarket rotors) after I finish work if its been raining that day. Normally the first 5 brakes gets rid of it or one quick jam on the brakes in the carpark.

My noise isn't constant, mainly either when reversing out of driveway rear passenger wheel is off the driveway first It'll go turning right around a roundabout, then make the noise when exiting the roundabout And also turning right up a hill - entrance to car park at train station of a morning

I got mind through Nissan. Can't remember the price

Tie rod ends hey? Thanks for the info lads, will be booking into a shop ASAP