BstewyR33

did this yesterday (after having the replacement sitting in the garage for the last 1.5 yrs.....) and coming into the end of winter... but the tutorial worked a treat. around the 2 hr mark to get it all done, and that included me cleaning the evap cooler unit as well - i was actually surprised at how much crap gets onto the cooling coil. now just have to get a regas done.

could hear a rumble next to me at lights in breakfast creek - then saw a blue r33 4 dr scream off from the lights also a cressida this morning get a little bit funky round a yaris at set of traffic lights.

spotted a couple of SAU members a couple of weekends ago heading south from the sunshine coast ( 1 R34 4 Door & 1 R33 GTR) gave a toot as i drove by much to be bewilderment of my mrs... i said it's a skyline thing.. hahaha also spotted a R33 or R32 in mary st sporting a panda look, black body white roof (not sure if thats just a paint job issue or if you're actually trying to achieve the panda look)

cleaning the teeth grinding - take foot off clutch a little too early and hear the clutch teeth give a squeel. hard grinding - crunching sound..

a hard grinding? or cleaning the teeth grinding?? if the latter - i wouldn't stress too much over it, just try not to do it too often.

ahh , ill give you a toot when i next see ya then.

may have been me - around the bracken ridge area? the old man got a chuckle from the bov

I suppose they could just do with some lube,i thought i had packed a shiteload in when i put them in. its only a sometimes creak, normally after a long drive then coming into the driveway. like i said they were only replaced about a month of so ago. they were going good for about 3 weeks, then started creaking again. I got the nolethane bushes from autobahn $140 from memory (front upper outer control arm) Can get superpro from JDM obsession for $110 delivered for the inners (standard replacement) Ah, cheer for the info

Hey guys, About a month or so again i replaced the upper outer control arm bushes on my R33 gtst. but i've noticed that the creaking sound is still there so i'm thinking it may be the inner bushes. now it probably would have been a smart thing to replace those at the time i did the outer ones, but didn't think that far ahead. my question is: does it matter if the brands are difference between bushes. The new ones that I've put in are Nolethane. and since i can't find any that suit the front inners, i was going to find some superpro to fit. can get them cheap enough. So yea, would it matter being difference brands is what I'm asking? Cheers

spotted a white 33 rolling down elizabeth st @ lunch time. fluro orange wheels big sticker on the back "FUJIBOY" or to that effect

I'll take some photos tomorrow and post them in the relevant step

Hey all, after searching all over the net on how to do this - I found very little information available - in specific R33 gtst (apart from some helps and hints from some of the guys on here, thanks to those guys ) I used nolethane bushes (45485 part number for R33 gtst) cost approx 140 for the front set. Now unfortuneatly i didn't take any photos because i didn't think to, but i'll try and explain it thoroughly enough to make sense. Tools needed: socket set (from memory 17mm - but just double check on the control arm nut), sereval length screwdrivers (this will become clear later) a portable butane torche (if available) cold chisel, rubber mallet, 4lb sledgie ( just to make bashing the old ones out easier) this can be done with regular hammer, but if you've got the sledgie, then use it. and some big flat washer (as big as you can get and with a hole big enough to fit the bolt for the control arm) breaker bar & lastly a bashing plate (some sort of flat metal to bash with your hammer) First Step: chock behind back wheels, crack the wheel nuts just to losen them, jack the car up at the front and get your axel stands ready. once you've got it up high enough for the wheel to come off - place the axel stands under the car, then lower car onto the stands. remove wheels. Second Step: now that you've got the wheels off, time to crack those nuts on the upper control arm. you can spray for WD40 if you want to to let it soak in at the nut end - these are a bit of a bitch to remove. get your breaker bar out and crack the nuts, may take a couple of cracks before you can get the ratchet onto it to remove. once loose enough get your socket set on and take the nut off (may help with a second socket piece on to the bolt end to if the nut is a little tight to get off) then once you've got that nut off, it may be a bit of a squeeze to get the bolt out, you can tap it with a hammer to push it out, then try wiggling it out, just keep at it to get the bolt out, the last little part will make the control arm spring up and the upright drop down. Third Step: this is where the butane burner comes in handy, fire that up and start to heat up the metal inbetween the old bushes this helps with taking out the old bushes rather than trying to bash them out, do this for as long as you need to (from memory i moved the flame over the metal inbetween for about 3-4mins) then get your cold chisel and place it on the lip of the old bush and start to bash them out. once you can get enough of it out, you can try to use a flat head screw driver to wedge inbetween the lip and the metal and try and pry it out, eventually it'll pop straight out. Now you've got on side out, you can probably put the flame back on the metal to help get the other side out., then with a cold chisel on the inside, you can start to bash the other side out. repeat the above process on the other side. Now with all the old crapped out bushes out, time to start to get the new replacements ones ready. Fourth Step: grease up the inside of the metal, & your new bushes (inside and out) wedge the metal pin in as far you can, heating the metal again may help the new ones slip in easier (i forgot to do this), once you've got the metal ready and the bushes ready, start with one side (make sense) get that to just inside the metal, then with your flat piece of metal start to tap it in. if its nice and greased up then it won't take too much effort to get it in. with the second bush, get it onto the pin and start to tap it onto the other side. this is also where those big flat washer come into play.once you've got the bushes in as far as you can with the hammer, slide the bolt through with a washer either side and start to crack the bolt up (this helps get the bushes all the way in) Fifth Step: with the new bushes in and nicely seated again the metal. time to try and get that control arm back onto the upright. (this for me proved to be a massive pain in the ass), with a bit of grease on the edge where the control arm comes down onto the bush, it will help that little bit. Get one of your screwdrivers and put it through one of the holes in the upright (you'll see it when you poke your head in) pull the upright forward and try and line up the control arm to the bushes, once you've got it lined up time for the sweat, blood (hopefully not) & a few choice words screamed. you just need the control arm to sit on the bushes without sliding off. once this is achieved, you can try and get the final part done. Sixth Step: with your screwdriver still holding the upright out, and the control arm sitting on the bushes nicely (without slipping off) grab another longer screwdriver and place it on top of the control arm and pin it against the spring of your front strut. (this may or may not be good for it, however you're only trying to move the control arm down half a cm just to expose the hole of the bushes), so as mentioned once you've got some of the hole in the bushes exposed, you can put a screwdriver through the hole in the bushes and take out the other screwdrivers and use the screwdriver in the hole to do the final adjustment of the bushes. try and just move them small amounts at a time, so not to pop the control arm off. Seventh Step: with the hole lined up nicely, grease up the bolt to go through the bushes, and tap it in (careful not to damage the thread when doing this) once this is done - you've sucessfully completed a bush replacement. do the nut up FT (not sure what the actual torque setting is) but i've done mine up FT, if someone has the actual setting that'd be great if they could let me know Its probably a wise move to get a wheel alignment done afterwards Hopefully the info is some help to some who have thought about doing a bush replacement, you've just saved yourself a few hundred $$ in the process by getting a shop to do it for you. (baring in mind - its alot easier to send to a shop to get it done, definately quicker, but oh well a bit of DIY never hurts )

Finally! What a shit of a job! Managed to get them back together with a bit if help with a big screwdriver, just needed that extra 1cm travel Thanks for the hints

haha yea, its a pain in the ass when you start something on the car and can't get it back together.... my brother suggested undoing the castor rod - was thinking of just undoing the 2 nuts that are on the underside of where the rod connects to the bottom part of the (cross member?), would that be a better option? Thanks for the advice *edit* on another note, do you guys know the torque setting for that bolt through the bushes? or just FT? i spose i'd need to know for the castor rods.

Hey all, as previously suggested my upper control arm bush may have been fubar'd, so i thought id do a bit of DIY to get the old bushes out and get the new ones in. now - i've got the new bushes in (with a bit of difficulty) but finally did it, however now i'm at a loss as to how to get the control arm back onto the upright. Ive tried brute strength of lever down the control arm to near the bushes and i come up short by about 1cm to be able to slide the bolt through. is there something i'm not doing to make the job easier?? (apart from paying someone else to do it) or is it just a matter of brute force to get the 2 part to line up and then slide the bolt in? any help appreciated. Cheers Ben

Thanks for the info yeah, can't really complain, the suspension has lasted 10 or so years of australian roads hahaha so might be worth getting all bushes replaced you reckon? or just control arms upper and lower for now?

Hey all - quick question in regards to suspension If this has been covered, please show me the way My front left strut has got a decent squeak whenever it hits any sort of bump, or rolls off the drive way, over speed bumps etc etc. Ive stuck me head down close to the wheel and got someone to push down on the car and the noise is diffenatly coming from the top of the strut. would it be a bush of some sort that is worn/split? Im taking it to pedders for that $14 check (but hoping they won't find too much thats wrong with it), just thought i'd see if you guys had any recommendations first. Cheers Ben

ive still got my r33 side mount if your keen.. (atleast i think i do, not unless the mrs clean up the garage and threw it away) will check tonight *i'm guessing you're after the side mount type"??

Ah cool, I trained with them for about 4 years (along time ago) Back when they were in burpengary, then the first shed in morayfield, then faded out & lost interest Was only wing chun and jow ga back then

How long you been training at red dragon?

Haha true Mine came a tt but Ive never used it, and a varex muffler, but the remote doesn't work( haven't got round to figuring out how to hard wire it to a switch in the dash I've only done a front mount on mine, tinted the windows and put slotted rotors on That's as far as my mods will prob go....... For now haha

The standard silvery 2 tone

i saw you on gympie road get a love tap on the ass from another car the other week. a glancing blow?? car looked mint! oh yeah narangba too 4dr r33 - not too much done to it (being a "family" type care, trying to keep mods to a reasonable level hehe)

thanks for the info all. I think i might buy one of those air horns, as long as its a constant sound i should be right. Cheers

after having several cars almost merge into me with my hand on the horn - i've decided that my car horn just doesn't have the impact that it should. so I was thinking of grabbing one of those "stebel nautilus" ones from ebay. they say the dB is 139dB and up depending on the model you get. i've heard the horn and it sounds like it would get peoples attention Does anyone know if there is a max dB level that can be used for a horn? or is it a case of, as long as it's not the musical type and constantly on, its all good. Cheers